I 



u> 



THE 



EMIGRANT'S NOTE BOOK 

AND 

GUIDE; 



WITH RECOLLECTIONS OF 



UPPER AND LOWER CANADA, 

DURING THE LATE WAR. 



" The wise and active conquer difficulties 
By daring to attempt them. Sloth and folly 
Shiver and shrink, at sight of toil and hazard, 
And make the impossibilities they fear," 



7* 



BY LIEUTENANT J. C. MORGAN, H. P. 

LATE SECOND BATT. B. M. 



LONDON : 

Published for the Author, 
v BY LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, 



1824. 

C<7 



LONDON ; 

SKACKELL AND ARROWSMfTH, JORNSOX'S-COITST, 
FLEET-STREET. 






SIR GEORGE COCKBURN, M.P. 

KNIGHT GRAND CROSS 

Of the Military Order of the Bath, 

LORD COMMISSIONER OF THE ADMIRALTY, 
VICE ADMIRAL OF THE BLUE, 

MAJOR GENERAL OF MARINES, 
i&C. &c. 



Sir, 

In addressing one who has devoted 
himself to his country, — and who ranks so 
high in a service, as conspicuous for its can- 
dour as for its gallantry, — it would be an 
insult to offer the language of flattery and 
adulation : it would likewise ill accord with 
my own feelings. Even were I here to 
allude to particular actions, and attempt to 
hold them up to the admiration of the world 
— from my total inability to do justice to the 



IV 

task — I should incur the charge of vanity 
and presumption. Permit me^ therefore, Sir, 
in the plain and simple language of truth, 
to assure you of my gratitude, and more 
particularly, for being allowed to dedicate to 

you this humble effort of my pen. With 

every sentiment of respect, 

I have the Honour to be, 

Sir, 

Your most obedient, humble Servant, 

J. C. MORGAN. 




PREFACE. 



If 
At the commencement of the late 

war with the United States of America, 
the first and second battalions 
of Royal Marines, under the com- 
mand of lieutenant-colonels Sir Rich- 
ard Williams, and Sir James Malcolm, 
Knights Commanders of the Bath, 
were recalled from the north of Spain, 
and after being properly recruited 
and equipped, were dispatched for 
the coast of America, in the early part 
of the year 1813. 



VI PREFACE. 

The Islands of Bermuda was the 
first point of rendezvous ; and here 
we arrived on the 23d May, after a 
passage of six weeks, in his Majesty's 
ships Diadem, Diamede, Fox, Nemis- 
ses, Success and Romulus, armed 
en flute, and Mariner armed transport. 

The events which occurred in the 
voyage, were such as occur to other 
people, similarly situated, and there- 
fore need no particular description. 

I shall consequently only observe, 
that my companions were just such 
as a man would wish to be embarked 
with, for a long voyage, and to those 
friends — 

" Well pleased I turn'd 
Regardless of the storms which raged without." 

A brief sketch of the Bermudas 
may, however, amuse the fire-side 
traveller, who may peruse these 
pages. 



PREFACE. vii 

This cluster of Islands, which the 
Bermudians insist on being exactly 
365 in number, contains not more 
than 20,000 acres, generally very 
light land, and of no extraordinary 
fertility. 

They are situated at a great 
distance from any other island or 
continent, in 32 N. latitude, and 
63 W. longitude ; 4,500 miles from 
the Land's-end, Cornwall ; 3,500 from 
Madeira, and 500 miles E. of Charles- 
town, South Carolina. 

They appear to have received their 
first name from John Bermuda, a 
Spaniard, who discovered them in 
1552, and were afterwards called the 
Summer Islands, from Sir Geo. Sum- 
mers, who was shipwrecked upon 
them in 1609. 

Finding them deserted bv the 
Spaniards, he took possession of 



Vlll PREFACE. 

them, and they have ever since 
remained in the hands of the English. 

The inhabitants had formerly a 
small traffic in vegetables, with the 
West Indian Islands, likewise in a 
particular description of hat, made 
of the Palmetto tree, then generally 
worn in warm climates. Cedar is at 
present their principal staple com- 
modity, and these trees they cultivate 
with the greatest care and attention ; 
their property and consequence being 
generally estimated by the number 
of slaves and cedars they possess. 

These two commodities likewise 
constitute their children's fortunes. 

With the latter, the Bermudians 
build their far-famed, fast sailing 
schooners, with which they drive a 
considerable trade between North 
America, and the West Indies. 

During the late war, Bermuda was 



PREFACE. IX 

one of the principal rendezvous for 
the English Fleet, in that quarter of 
the world, although the passage to the 
anchorage, through a long reef of 
rocks, is one of peculiar danger in 
bad weather. 

Tobacco and arrow root are like- 
wise cultivated in these islands, 
which, from their numbers, afford 
numerous harbours and bays, for 
small craft, in all directions through 
the plantations. 

Here the cedar, the palmetto, the 
wild thyme, tamarind, cocoa nut, and 
bahama trees, with various others, 
decorate the vallies, whilst a thousand 
variegated shrubs and flowers "dis- 
pense native perfumes," making the 
imagination almost fancy itself in 
fairy land. 

The most remarkable of the fea- 
thered creation are the Tropic blue 



X JPREFACE, 

and red birds, or Virginian Nightin- 
gales, of beautiful plumage, but 
whose notes are far inferior to those 
of the English Thrush. Likewise 
the little Humming Bird, of exa^usite 
beauty, whose beak is nearly the length 
of his body, and whose whole frame 
is very little larger than a Queen Bee. 

The domesticated part of the fea- 
thered tribe are, however, not so se- 
cure from harm as those who roam 
free and unconfmed ; such incredible 
swarms of rats harbour in the cre- 
vices of the rocks, as renders the 
greatest care necessary, to prevent 
every unfortunate fowl from being 
carried off by these midnight ma- 
rauders. 

The principal Islands are Ireland, 
where there is a naval depot and 
dock-yard, St. George's, St. David's, 
Somerset, Long, Bird, Cooper, and 



PREFACE. XI 

Nonsuch. The capital town is St. 
George^s, which contains about 2,000 
houses, and is defended by several 
forts. 

Provisions were exorbitantly high 
in the Bermudas during the war, and 
in this respect it was a wretched 
quarter ; for above all the natural 
beauties of a country, in a time of 
scarcity — 

" There is a pleasure in a good sirloin 
Which starvelings only know." 

In the midst of this general priva- 
tion of eatables, however, I remem- 
ber drinking some very fair claret, at 
3s. the bottle. 

The village of Hamilton is finely 
situated on the shelving shore of an 
extensive bay ; and about two miles 
from this place, " The army of the 
coast !" was encamped and organized. 



Xll PREFACE. 

The two flank companies, with one 
wing of the 102d regiment, and the 
second battalion royal marines, formed 
the first brigade under the command 
orLieut. Colonel Napier. The second 
brigade consisted of the first battalion 
royal marines, and a detachment of 
foreign light infantry — this was com- 
manded by Lieut. Colonel Sir Richard 
Williams, and each brigade had a 
company of royal marine artillery 
attached to it, under Captains Park 
and Parry. 

The whole force, amounting to 
about 2,400 men (subject to the di- 
rections of Admirals Sir John War- 
ren and Sir George Cockburn), was 
placed under the command of Major 
General Sir Sydney Beckwith, an 
officer of experience in the Peninsula, 
and who had with Lieut. Colonel 
Napier particularly distinguished him- 



PREFACE. Xlll 

self in the battle on the heights above 
Corunna, where the latter, (then 
Major of the 50th) was dangerously 
wounded. His life was however hap- 
pily spared to his country and his 
friends, through the humanity of a 
French drummer, who finding him 
on the field bleeding and senseless, 
bound up his wounds, and carried him 
to Marshal Soult, Duke of Dalmatia, 
who, I have understood, presented 
him with a medal for his conduct. 

I am anxious to believe the facts 
were so, because such actions do 
honor to the country, and to the pro- 
fession of the individuals who per- 
form them, to whatever nation thev 
may belong. God forbid that it 
should be supposed by any of us, 
that British soldiers and sailors are 
alone capable of performing great 
and honorable actions, or that I 



XIV PREFACE. 

should refuse my humble offering of 
praise and admiration, to a humane 
and gallant enemy, for such actions 
as these.* 

Of Lieut. Colonels Williams and 
Malcolm I shall here say but little — 
to do them justice would from me 
appear like flattery, and an attempt 
to do less is not in my nature. In- 
deed no panegyric is necessary — 
the General Orders and Public Dis- 
patches of their Commanding Officers, 
and the especial mark of their So- 
vereign's approbation, in conferring 
upon them the Star of the Military 

* ¥/~hen Sir John Moore was informed that the 
50th regiment, under Majors Napier and Stanhope, 
had expended all their ammunition, his reply was, 
" The 50th have their bayonets, "' and on seeing (he 
admirable way in which they immediately after- 
wards made use of them, he exclaimed in a pa- 
roxysm of delight, " Well done the 50th — well 
done my Majors." 



PREFACE. XV 

Order of the Bath, afford ample 
proofs of their meritorious services. 

Such was the " army of the coast," 
and such were the principal officers 
by whom it was commanded. 

It is not my intention to enter into 
a detail of our operations in Mary- 
land, Virginia, and Carolina, because 
there were no fighting matches of 
sufficient importance to interest the 
general reader. Any thing like a 
description of an action, since the 
battle of Waterloo, would be non- 
sense, and those who have read over 
and over again, the history of the 
18th June, 1815, until their eyes ache, 
would think any thing less than 
20,000 men and 20,000 horses put 
hors de combat, a mere bagatelle. 

Now, as our whole army would 
scarcely, I suppose in their idea, 
have been more than a breakfast for 



XVI PREFACE. 

the Cuirasseurs, I shall merely state, 
that we were employed from June 
until the middle of September in 
landing, up to our necks, on the Ame- 
rican coast, and in embarking again 
in the same comfortable manner. 
During one of these excursions, I re- 
member well being very nearly taken 
prisoner, and that having as great an 
aversion to this as ever Mr. Shandy, 
senior, had to " saps, mines, blinds, 
gabions, palisadoes, ravelins, half 
moons,' and such trumpery," I con- 
trived to escape. 

By our attacks upon Norfolk, 
Hampton, Queenstown, Occacock, 
&c. &c, the American Government 
was obliged to keep several thousand 
men moving in double quick time, up 
and down their own coast, from the 
Delaware to Cape Hatteras, a dis- 
tance of several hundred miles, who 



PREFACE. XV 11 

would otherwise have been on the 
frontier of Canada. 

In September, as was before ob- 
served, we left the North Coast of the 
United States, and many will remem- 
ber with considerable interest the 
events of the three preceding months 
— many will not be able to do so, from 
very evident causes. 

After remaining a short time at 
Halifax, the two battalions of Marines 
with the Artillery, received orders to 
embark for Quebec, where they ar- 
rived in October, and were afterwards 
employed in the defence of Upper 
and Lower Canada until the conclu- 
sion of the war. 

How they conducted themselves 
during this time will be best seen by 
the following extract from a General 
Order, issued by the Commander in 
Chief and Governor General, on the 



XV111 PREFACE. 

breaking up of the first battalion, for 
the service of the Lakes. — 

" The Commander of the Forces 
in complying with the orders of Go- 
vernment, in this disposal of the bat- 
talion of Royal Marines, considers it 
an act of justice to that valuable and 
respectable corps to declare his entire 
approbation of the correct and steady 
discipline that has uniformly characte- 
rized the Royal Marines, since their 
arrival in Canada. 

" The first battalion, under Lieut. 
Colonel Williams, in the exact and 
diligent discharge of the duties as- 
signed to it, in the occupation of the 
most critical and important position 
on the frontier, has evinced, in a man- 
ner highly honorable to the corps, the 
talent and judgment of the Com- 
mander, the intelligence and vigilance 



PREFACE. XIX 

of the Officers, and the tried fidelity 
and discipline of the corps. 

" The second battalion, under 
Lieut. Colonel Malcolm, afforded an 
opportunity of manifesting its gallan- 
try, and devotion to the service, in the 
assault of the Fort of Oswego," &c. 

By this General Order, Sir R. 
Williams and Major Mortimer, with 
the Staff of the first battalion, were 
directed to proceed to Halifax, to 
which place Sir J. Malcolm and 
Major Stirling, with the Staff of the 
second, had been previously ordered. 
They were all afterwards engaged in 
the attack upon Washington and 
Baltimore, as will be seen by refer- 
ence to the Public Dispatches of 
Admiral Sir George Cockburn, and 
Major General Ross. 

Having remained in Canada with 



XX PREFACE. 

the detachments of the first and se- 
cond battalions, commanded by Major 
Dougal Stuart Dalzell, and Major 
George Peebles,* I had various op- 
portunities of becoming acquainted 
with the two provinces ; and to the time 
thus passed, I now look back with an 
extraordinary feeling of interest. 

In the hey-day of life, when our 
actions are actuated by the warmer 
and kindlier influences of our nature, 
many things occur which make a 
lasting impression upon the mind. 
Before the wisdom of the world has 
made us acquainted, and assimi- 
lated us in a lesser or greater degree, 

* The first of these officers was severely wounded 
at the battle of Alexandria — the latter (Major 
George Peebles) when a Lieutenant, commanded 
the Marines at the storming of Fort Amsterdam in 
the Island of Curuaso, and for his conduct on that 
occasion he was promoted to the brevet rank of 
Captain in the Army. 



PREFACE. XXI 

with the tricks and chicanery of 
mankind, we breathe as it were in a 
peculiar world of our own, and it is 
then, that the prominent character of 
our nature is displayed. 

When the fire of our youth becomes 
damped by the influence of time or 
early misfortune, we become mere 
creatures of habit, and remain so 
until the last hour of our existence ; 
but, although the fire and animation 
of our youth may have died away, 
the warmth of its early impressions 
and recollections still remain the 
same in our hearts. 

" Time but the impression stronger makes, 
As streams their channels deeper wear." 

Actuated by these feelings and sen- 
timents, in the Autumn of last year I 
again embarked for Canada, intend- 



XX11 PREFACE. 

ing to settle with my family on the 
tract of land to which I am entitled 
by the Government regulation. A 
succession of bad weather in the 
Channel, however, occasioned our 
being nearly as long between Graves- 
end and Portsmouth as is often occu- 
pied in the whole passage to Quebec, 
and this, with other circumstances, 
obliged me to leave the ship, and give 
up my projected emigration until the 
ensuing season. 

Those who have experienced simi- 
lar disappointments, will readily ima- 
gine with what reluctance I gave up 
the hope of proceeding, after having 
made all my arrangements. 

In order to relieve myself from the 
ennui occasioned by this delay, I have 
since occupied my time in preparing 
the following pages for the press. 



PREFACE. XX111 

Whilst in America I kept a rough 
note book of dates, distances, and 
events, &c. &c, this has enabled me 
to effect my object with greater faci- 
lity, and I trust the Work with the 
Map, will be found useful to the 
emigrant, and not uninteresting to 
the general reader. 

For any defects of the head which 
the critic may observe, I make no 
apology, because apology is out of 
the question, where the intention is 
to do right. For any errors of the 
heart no apology or excuse could 
make amends. 

I therefore give it to the Public 
with all its faults, trusting, that there 
is nothing in it that will either dis- 
grace my Nature, my Profession, or 
my Country. 



ERRATA. 

Page 2, line 1,for " which " read " of which*" 

66, end of line 21, read " I.»" 

— - 81, line f, for " western " r<?#d « N.W, or inland.'* 
— — 1T9, line 21, for " way " read * weigh," 

195, line 6, in motto of chap, xii, for (i force" read 

"tide. ; > 
— — 347, line I, /or (C exlcaim "read '* exclaim. 1 " 



r 




LETTER I. 



" Breathes there the man — with soul so dead, 
Who never to himself has said, 

This is my own, my native land^ 
Whose heart hath ne'er within him burn'd, 
As home his footsteps he hath turn'd, 

From wandering on a foreign strand. 
If such there be — go mark him well." 



Nature — all-powerful Nature — 
reigning in the hearts, and influenc- 
ing the actions of all men — makes 
them cling with affectionate regard 
to the country where they first drew 
the breath of life : it matters not 
where that country may be, whether 
under the torrid, or the frigid zone. 

B 



" I prefer/' said a French officer, 
on returning from foreign service, 
" my native fields to every other 
place — not because they are more 
beautiful, but because I was there 
brought up — the spot on which we 
past our infant days possesses a 
secret charm, an inexpressible en- 
chantment — no other on the face of 
the earth can equal it." 

Would the Indian, in his native 
wilds, whilst exposed to the scorch- 
ing heat of a summer sun, or the 
cold and frosts of a North American 
winter, sigh with regret, that he was 
not across " the Great Lake," in the 
countries which he has heard, are 
rolling in luxury and ease ? Oh, 
no ! The parching sun, the chilling 
snow storms and the freezing blasts, 
are all alike indifferent to him. He 
hunts during the day with unwearied 



perseverance, or on the borders of a 
solitary stream, — patiently waits until 
he obtains sufficient to supply the mo- 
derate wants of nature. Contentedly 
ignorant, and feeling no wish, or am- 
bition for more than his hunting 
grounds afford, he lays him down to 
rest, beneath the wide-spread canopy 
of Heaven, a stranger to all those in- 
quietudes and miseries, which his 
more refined and civilized fellow- 
creatures are hourly subject to. 

" We were born upon this spot, 
our fathers are buried here , shall we 
say to their bones, rise up, and go with 
us to a strange land ?" — Such was the 
observation of a Canadian Indian 
Chief, to one who was pressing him 
to leave his patrimony, and such will 
be the feeling of every man. But, 
alas ! " the race is not always for the 
swift, or the battle for the strong/' 
b2 



4 

and a variety of circumstances may 
occur to make men, whose hearts 
beat warm with affection for their 
country and their kindred, — abandon 
them for ever. 

Misfortune, in various shapes, 
treading close upon their heels, in 
spite of every mental and bodily 
exertion, may ultimately succeed in 
driving them from that station, which 
they had endeavoured respectably to 
maintain. — Indeed, " when I reflect 
upon man ; and take a view of that 
dark side of him, which represents 
his life as open to so many causes of 
trouble ; when I consider how oft we 
eat the bread of affliction, and that 
we are born to it, as to the portion 
of our inheritance; when one runs 
over the catalogue of all the cross 
reckonings and sorrowful items with 
which the heart of man is over- 






charged ; it is wonderful by what 
hidden resources the mind is enabled 
to stand it out, and bear itself up, as 
it does, against the impositions laid 
upon our nature.* 

Surely, surely then, it would be far 
better for him, who has struggled 
in vain against the tide of adversity 
in this country, to retire to some re- 
mote corner of the earth, where he 
can live dependant only upon the 
Almighty and himself, than to 
breathe a sort of second-hand exist- 
ence, in the very source of painful 
recollections, and where he would 
most probably see his children grow- 
ing up around him totally unprovided 
for. 

To such a man, and to others who 
choose to emigrate, and who possess 

* Sterne, 



firm and patient minds, and are of 
persevering and industrious habits; 
an emigration to either of the British 
Colonies in North America, presents 
many advantages. 

He will find that the difficulties of 
settling in a new country, will only 
prove an incitement to labour, whilst 
the hope of future ease and enjoy- 
ment, daily more and more cherished 
by increased sources of happiness, will 
act as a stimulant to unwearied exer- 
tion. And finally, through the bless- 
ings of a beneficent Providence, on 
whom every thing around teaches him 
to look with greater veneration, his 
laudable efforts will be crowned with 
well-deserved success. 

It is, however, lamentable to re- 
flect on the delusive hopes and 
chimerical ideas, entertained by the 
far greater proportion of emigrants. 



Daily observation, and their own let- 
ters sufficiently show, that of the many 
thousands who annually leave Great 
Britain and Ireland for Canada and 
other countries ; very few, compara- 
tively speaking, form any thing like 
even a common rational idea of the 
country to which they are going, or 
of the difficulties they have to en- 
counter. 

The voyage they admit is disagree- 
able, and perhaps dangerous,— but 
what then? When they arrive at 
this " Land of Promise," this Land 
" flowing with milk and honey," they 
imagine they are to sit themselves 
down where they please, and to be 
fed, nobody knows how — perhaps, by 
the birds of the air ; who, as well as 
the beasts of the forest, are to be 
placed by nobody knows who, en- 
tirely at their disposal. 



8 



All alike, — young and old, — inva- 
lids, and those in perfect health, fancy 
that a change of climate and country 
are alone necessary to enable them to 
realize all those gay dreams of com- 
fort and happiness, which they have 
fondly pictured to themselves. 

But the man who seriously thinks of 
emigrating, should strictly examine 
his own charater, and if he has sense 
enough to form an opinion on the sub- 
ject, and should be conscious of any 
feebleness of mind or body, let him 
give up all idea of it ; for he may rest 
fully assured, that unless he possesses 
a large capital, he never can succeed. 

The incurable slave to expensive 
habits, would be equally unfortunate ; 
the simple economy necessary for 
such an undertaking, and the se- 
cluded life of a settler, would make 
him weary of his existence ; his lands 



9 

would be thrown up in despair, and 
inevitable ruin would be the result, 

It is not such as these that are 
wanted in an infant colony, or who 
can ever, with the least chance of 
success, hope to succeed as settlers. 
But time and industry must and will 
provide amply for the enterprizing, 
and those really suited for such an 
undertaking, — should they escape 
those heavy afflictions to which we are 
all subject in every part of the world, 
and which it is totally out of our 
power to prevent. 



b 3 



LETTER II. 



" It is a long lane that has no turning." 

Old Proverb. 



New South Wales, the Cape of 
Good Hope, the British Provinces in 
North America, and the United States, 
being the countries which have re- 
ceived the greatest accession of 
strength from emigration since the 
year 1815, we will pass them rapidly 
before us in review, and endeavour to 
glean some information from their pe- 
culiar advantages and disadvantages. 

We will commence with New 
South Wales, and its sister colony 



12 

Van Diemen's Land, as the farthest 
removed from our personal observa- 
tion. First then, the climate of this 
part of the world is represented as 
most favourable to the cultivation of 
the soil ; and we read, that nature has 
here with a liberal hand, spread 
abroad for the advantage and admi- 
ration of the emigrant, every blessing 
that can either cheer his heart, or 
please his imagination. 

We will admit all this to be rea- 
lity, and that for the agriculturalist 
with a large capital, who can afford 
to take with him from this country, 
such servants as he may require in 
his family, it presents many advan- 
tages. It should, however, be borne 
in mind by the generality of emi- 
grants, that until the close of the 
year 1822, the Commissariat stores 
were almost constantly open to re- 



13 

ceive supplies at a stated price for 
the use of the convicts. This afforded 
to the settler from the first formation 
of the colony, to the period above- 
mentioned, a safe, and certain market 
for his cattle and corn. 

The great advantages of this to 
him, is so evident, that it would be a 
useless waste of time to point them 
out, — it therefore only remains for me 
to remark, that the system of receiv- 
ing supplies from persons indiscrimi- 
nately is now discontinued, and that 
the establishments are now furnished 
by contract. Although the Govern- 
ment is benefited by this measure, the 
majority of the free population are left 
in a great degree to the mercy of the 
contractors, and the consequence is, 
— every description of produce has 
fallen in value at least fifteen per cent. 
— I do not, however, mean to say but 
that even subject to this deprecia- 



14 

tion — the prices pay him for his trou- 
ble. 

The permission given to erect distil- 
leries, will, it is true, cause an extra- 
ordinary consumption of grain, and 
the increased export trade of the 
Colony will afford another relief ; but 
these, I apprehend, cannot compensate 
to the generality of emigrants for the 
loss of a Government market, at all 
times open to receive their pro- 
duce. 

2ndly. — Instead of leaving it op- 
tional for the free settler to employ 
any number of convicts he may re- 
quire, and be able conveniently to 
provide for; by a late regulation, 
every person receiving a grant of land 
from Government, is obliged to take 
one convict for every 100 acres, and 
these he is required to clothe and 
support. To those who have ample 
means at their disposal, such a regu- 






15 

lation may not be a very serious dis- 
advantage. They can so arrange as to 
keep their own domestic servants taken 
from this country immediately about 
them, and the convicts employed, im- 
proving the more distants parts of 
their estates. But to those, whose 
capital will not allow them to take 
working men from hence, the idea of 
being surrounded even in the bosom 
of their families, by convicts alone, 
must be somewhat appalling. 

Besides, the mind having constant- 
ly before it the perpetrators of every 
kind of atrocity, must become fami- 
liarized with crime, and it is frightful 
to reflect on the natural influence of 
all this, upon the youth of both 
sexes. 

"The employment of men convicted 
for forgery, as schoolmasters for the 
children of settlers, cannot be contem- 
plated without apprehension, but 



> 



16 



whether from habit or necessity, I 
found these apprehensions had sub- 
sided even in quarters where they 
might have been supposed most 
strongly to prevail. Another and 
striking instance of the insensibility 
to the consequences of such superin- 
tendence, occurred in the enquiry that 
took place before the magistrates at 
Paramatta, into the conduct of Mr. 

: upon that occasion, it appeared 

that his eldest son, a youth of six- 
teen years of age, was allowed to be 
instructed by his convict clerk, in the 
suspicious and dangerous art of imi- 
tating the hand-writing of individuals. 
This fact was stated without any he- 
sitation or regret by his father to the 
Magistrates, in the course of their en- 
quiry into the authenticity of certain 
returns that had been copied by the 
son, and transmitted to Governor 
Macquarrie. The statement fortu- 



17 

nately attracted the notice of Mr. 
Justice Field, who did not allow it to 
pass without a suitable rebuke.*" 

From convict labour not much can 
be expected, and the emigrant who 
settles at a distance from a Govern- 
ment station, will find enough to do 
to keep such people in any kind of 
subjection. Although he may be 
willing himself to put a hand to the 
plough, or the flail, he cannot be in 
all places at once, and with such 
drones forced into his hive, he may 
ultimately see all his industrious ef- 
forts, for the good of his family, frus- 
trated. 

In such a situation he cannot leave 
his home to enjoy the sports of the 
field without great personal danger, 
either from the convicts or the abori- 

* Commissioner Bigge's report. 



18 



gines of the country. His mind must 
be kept in constant anxiety for the 
safety of his family. During his ab- 
sence, theft and murder may be com- 
mitted, or revenge for imaginary in- 
juries may destroy all his hopes of 
future comfort and happiness. 

Even in the principal towns, no 
man appears to be secure, if we may 
judge by the report of Mr. Commis- 
sioner Bigge to Lord Bathurst. He 
says, when speaking of Hobart Town 
in Van Diemen's Land. " It is un- 
fortunate that at this settlement, 
where there is abundance of stone to 
be procured, so few stonemasons 
should have been sent from Sydney, 
and that bricks should have been so 
much used in the construction of the 
public buildings, as well as in those 
of individuals. From the bad quality 
of those generally made at Hobart 



19 



Town, it is found necessary to secure 
them from the effect of sea air and 
moisture by plaster ; and it has been 
universally found that stone buildings 
afford a greater security against house- 
breakers than those built of brick. " 
And again, "A constable was attached 
to my own residence in the town of 
Sydney, although it had also the pro- 
tection of a military sentinel towards 
the street ; but it was not considered 
safe, unless it was protected on both 
sides" 

The annual police reports sufficient- 
ly attest the necessity of these pre- 
cautions ; but, if the King's Commis- 
sioner requires a soldier, and a con- 
stable to guard him in a garrison town, 
the seat of Government, and where we 
should suppose the police to be best 
regulated, it may be very naturally 
asked, what chance has the emigrant 



20 

in a distant part of the Colony, of 
avoiding depredation and annoy- 
ance? 

Every man whose heart is not to- 
tally depraved or senseless, must in 
some degree participate in the misery 
or happiness of those around him. But 
how much more susceptible of these 
feelings must he be — who after bidding 
farewell to his early connections, and 
landing upon a distant shore, — finds 
himself settled for the remainder of his 
life, where, independent of all other 
difficulties, he has seldom the satis- 
faction of seeing any person, except- 
ing those of his own family, on whom 
he can place the least confidence 
Desolate, indeed, must be his situa- 
tion, for which no superiority of soil 
or climate can sufficiently compensate. 

The usual charge for the passage 
of each person to New South Wales, 



21 

or Van Diemen's Land, is 751. in the 
cabin, and 35/. in the steerage, half 
price being charged for children un- 
der fourteen years of age, and about 
21. per ton freight for goods, or any 
considerable quantity of baggage. 
The Guildford, Captain Johnson, an 
able navigator and highly respectable 
man, has run from England to Cape 
Van Diemen in ninety days. This is, 
however, a voyage by no means to be 
calculated upon, and the emigrant 
may think himself fortunate if he ar- 
rives in four months, from the time 
the ship gets clear of the channel. 

" The experience of many years 
has now established the safety as 
well as ease, with which the voyage 
to New South Wales may be per- 
formed. No ships have arrived in a 
disabled state in consequence of dis- 
asters at sea, and none have occurred 



22 

in that part of the voyage where they 
are most to be apprehended, viz : in 
Bass's Straits. The principal causes 
of delay have arisen in cases where 
ships have attempted to keep too near 
the west coast of Africa before 
they have passed the Equator, or 
when they have arrived on the wes- 
tern coast of New South Wales in 
the months of December, January 
and February. In the first of these 
events they have generally repaired 
to the Island of St. Helena for a fresh 
supply of water ; and in the latter 
some inconvenience has been sus- 
tained from its exhaustion, and from 
the delay in making a passage through 
Bass's Straits against easterly winds, 
or in rounding the south-west Cape 
of Van Diemen's Land."* 

* Commissioner Bigge's report. 



23 

Should the emigrant be a family 
man, this part of the subject should 
occupy his most serious reflection. 
The inconvenience of a long sea 
voyage to women and children, may 
be evident to many, but the pain 
and misery to which they will be sub- 
ject, if invalids on board ship can 
be only known by experience. 
Should he see those for whom he is, 
as it were, beginning life again, suf- 
fering under a continuance of illness, 
he will probably regret that he had 
ever subjected them to it, instead 
of deciding on some country nearer 
home, which he might have reached 
with half the expence, and without 
half the inconvenience to himself or 
his family. 

The sum requisite for an emigration 
to New South Wales or Van Diemen's 
Land, together with the Government 



24 * 

regulation, that no person shall pro- 
ceed to those colonies, and receive a 
grant of land unless he possesses 500/. 
presents an insurmountable obstacle 
to the poorer class of emigrant 
farmers. In a few instances, how- 
ever, it is possible for a man of good 
character to ultimately overcome this 
difficulty. Respectable parties occa- 
sionally go out, who are willing to en- 
gage a steady farming man, who under- 
stands his business ; and if he serves 
them faithfully and diligently for the 
term of years agreed upon, he may 
obtain such a recommendation as will 
— when aided by his own local know- 
ledge of the country — obtain for him a 
grant of land of greater value probably 
than the one he might have had — if he 
had gone out in the first instance with 
money in his pocket. 

In such a population, honest men 



25 



of every description must indeed be 
valuable, and there can be no doubt 
but that working men and mechanics 
would more readily, and on terms 
more advantageous, — find employ in 
New South Wales and Van Diemen's 
Land, than in either of the countries 
above-mentioned. 

To him, however, who has moved 
in a more elevated station in life, who 
after bufFetting the storms of adversity 
in this country is only anxious in 
quietude and retirement to devote 
himself to the welfare of his family, 
and those serious reflections which 
press more and more upon us, as we 
approach the final period of our ex- 
istence, New South Wales is not 
the country, neither can it possibly be 
for many years to come. 



LETTER III. 



Ride out, ride out, 

The foe to scout. 

Mount, mount for Branksome every man. 

Lay of the last Minstrel. 



A few months previous to the emi- 
grations to Algoa Bay, several letters 
were addressed to the editor of one 
of the daily journals on various sub* 
jects, they were well written, but 
the grand finale of them all was, 
" Colonize the Cape." 

For every complaint, whether pub- 
lic or domestic, in church or state, 
this was to prove the sovereign re- 
c2 



28 

medy, and the burthen of the song, 
again and again, was " Colonize the 
Cape." 

Now, although the writer was no 
doubt actuated by the best and 
purest motives possible, in his endea- 
vours to draw the attention of the 
public to this land of the Hottentots ; 
still it does not appear that in most 
respects his predictions have been 
verified. 

The geographical situation of the 
Cape of Good Hope with the East 
Indies and New South Wales, gives 
it many very important advantages, 
and no extraordinary discernment is 
necessary to perceive clearly, that 
from this circumstance alone, the 
colonies at the Cape, in opposition to 
every obstacle, will continue to in- 
crease in wealth and population. 

Aigoa Bay, however, does not ap- 



29 

pear intended by nature to be the 
entrepot of a great colony. It is an 
open roadstead, and in blowing wea- 
ther, ships can only remain at anchor, 
when the wind is from one particular 
point of the compass. In cases of 
accident they have a run of 500 
miles to Table Bay the nearest place 
of safety. 

The great Fish River, instead of 
being navigable for many miles up 
the country, has a bar at its entrance, 
and the colonists up its banks, have, 
in consequence, no ready outlet to 
the sea. These are serious disadvan- 
tages, and such as cannot be over- 
come for many years, particularly as 
they have no inland water communi- 
cation with Cape Town, the capital 
and seat of government. 

It is true that it is a country at pre- 



30 

sent, but little known; and that 
many situations may be found better 
suited for settlers than Algoa Bay, 
but the following objections may 
alone be sufficient to deter many from 
emigrating to the Cape of Good 
Hope. 

The colony is governed by the 
Dutch laws, which existed previous 
to its surrender to this country in 
1806. These laws have not yet been 
sufficiently translated and distributed 
to give the English residents a correct 
idea of them. It is bad enough to 
find ourselves in a strange land, 
amongst a people speaking a language 
we cannot understand ; but to be 
subject to laws so very opposite in 
their bearings to those we have left 
behind us, and to which we have 
from our infancy been taught to look 



31 



~with admiration and respect, will 
very probably produce a distaste for 
every thing else. 

Although the government of a coun- 
try may be conducted in the most cor- 
rect and admirable manner ; still, if it 
be in any shape military or despotic, it 
is hostile to the feelings of Englishmen. 

They see in power thus exercised, 
danger in the distance ; but should it 
merely prove a phantom of the imagi- 
nation, it is surprising that even this 
should not be sufficient to alarm those 
of hardier mind and firmer purpose, 
than the generality of emigrants. 

It may be said that these objections 
will equally well apply to Lower Ca- 
nada; this, however, is not the fact. 
It is true three- fourths of the inhabi- 
tants of the Lower Province speak 
French, but they enjoy that first of all 



32 

privileges, a trial by jury, with a legis- 
lative council and House of Assembly. 

The colonies, at the Cape, appear 
likewise liable to floods and rains of 
the most destructive kind, whilst the 
CafFres taking advantage of their dis- 
tress, often pour down upon them in 
hordes, and sweep away before them 
all the cattle of a district. 

The following letter will show 
clearly the situation they were in at 
Graham's Town, in October, 1823. 

Grahams Town, Cape of Good Hope, 
October 81, 1823. 

" A calamity of the most afflicting 
nature, both in its detail and conse- 
quences, has just befallen this settle- 
ment. A flood, the result of ten 
days incessant rain, has desolated the 
face of cultivation, and blasted all 



33 

the prospects of industry for a long 
time to come. Indeed, so extensive 
is the rain, that it will be utterly im- 
possible for the colonists to retrieve 
themselves, without assistance from 
the country, and the adoption of the 
most lenient and indulgent measures 
of the colonial government. 

" There is scarcely a habitation left 
tenable throughout the district of 
Albany. The whole extent of tillage 
in the district is more or less damaged, 
highly cultivated enclosures have had 
the whole of their upper soil swept 
entirely from the surface, while the 
force of the waters has left large 
gulleys and chasms throughout them. 
— Banks and fences of every descrip- 
tion are prostrate. — The gardens 
planted on the banks of rivers for the 
convenient access to water have uni- 
versally suffered ■ many are totally 
c3 



34 

destroyed, and the fruit trees torn 
up and carried away by the flood. 

" In short, the whole occupied and 
cultivated face of the district, pre- 
sents a frightful picture of desolation 
and defeated industry. 

" In addition to this awful visitation 
of Providence, the rust has again at- 
tacked the corn, making our fourth 
season of fruitless and abortive til- 
lage, — whilst the Caffres in uninter- 
rupted predatory incursions are gra- 
dually withdrawing all the cattle from 
the district, to the increased gloom 
of that melancholy prospect of mi- 
sery and privation before us." 

The assertions in this letter, as to 
the distresses of the colony, have 
been fully verified by other sources of 
information; and I leave the reader 
to draw his own inference from it. 



35 

Here, as in the United States of 
America, the curse of slavery holds 
in subjection thousands of the human 
race. — Slavery!!! — that word, which 
even to write, makes the heart turn 
sick, and which, — to the indelible dis- 
grace of our nature, gives to any ruf- 
fian who has the means — the power 
of purchasing the flesh and blood of 
his fellow creature— here likewise 
sheds its baneful curse upon the land 
and upon its people ; and Slave — 
Slave, — is a word common in every 
man's mouth ! 

The expences attending an emigra- 
tion to the Cape of Good Hope, will 
be about two-thirds of what is neces- 
sary for New South Wales and Van 
Diemen's Land. The length of the 
voyage, about the same proportion of 
time. If the emigrant has made up 
his mind to proceed so far, probably 



36 

he had better again consider the sub- 
ject, and if he can make the neces- 
sary arrangement, decide on going 
on to one of those colonies. He will 
there have far greater advantages, and 
be equally free from annoyance. 

It can make but little difference if 
a man has his throat cut, or his house 
fired ; whether it be done by a party 
of Caffres, Indians, or runaway con- 
victs ; excepting, perhaps, as the 
latter may have had some previous 
experience in such matters — they may 
be able to accomplish their purpose 
more expeditiously and effectively. 

What are the first and principal 
objects all emigrants hope to obtain 
by leaving their native country ? — In- 
dependence and comfort; but how 
can a man be independent, whose 
property is at all times subject to the 
inroads of a party of savages ? — and 



37 

what proportion of comfort can he 
possibly enjoy, who cannot leave his 
home unarmed at any hour he pleases, 
or retire to rest, without a brace of 
loaded pistols under his pillow ? 

This sort of life may do very well 
for the soldiers of disbanded regi- 
ments, and half pay officers of every 
service : it would keep alive the re- 
collection of old times, and a dra- 
goon saddle, or a cartouch-box would 
be considered as good a pillow as one 
made of down. — A foray by moon- 
light occasionally, or the sound of 
the enemy's war whoop, — would lead 
to a better acquaintance and more in- 
timate connexion with his neighbour, 
and inspire a greater zeal and deter- 
mination to establish himself in op- 
position to every obstacle. 

This, however, is not what the 
generality of emigrants require, and 



38 

although a man does not deserve 
either house or land, or any con- 
nexion in life, if he is afraid to defend 
them in times of need ; still, the less 
he has occasion to show his valour in 
this way, the better. 

He will doubtless find himself much 
happier where he can drive his team 
afield, under the convoy of his dog 
and his cow-skin whip, than in a coun- 
try where even a long gun in the bow, 
would be scarcely found protection 
sufficient — for himself or his pro- 
perty. 



LETTER IV. 



'« The wise and active conquer difficulties, 
By daring to attempt them ; sloth and folly 
Shiver and shrink at sight of toil and hazard, 
And make the impossibility they fear." 



As a leader of emigrants, there are 
few, if any, who can equal a Mr. Boon, 
who explored Kentuckey in 1760. 
" Since that period he has constantly 
formed the advanced patrole of civili- 
zation, as it is a maxim with him that 
a country is too thickly peopled as 
soon as he cannot fell a tree from the 
forest into his own inclosure. He is 
now on the Missouri."* 
* Hall. 



40 

Could this old Backwoodsman's 
span of life be prolonged, he would 
doubtless, in time, cut his way to 
the Pacific Ocean, and not cry out 
" Othello's occupation's gone," whilst 
a stick remained standing on the 
whole continent of North America. 

He may, indeed, exclaim with 
Ceesor of old, " Veni, vidi, vicip for 
thousands and tens of thousands have 
fallen beneath the power of his arm. 

The character of this extraordinary 
man, reminds me of a passage in an 
application from a party of settlers in 
Massachusetts Bay to the Virginia 
Company, in the* year 1617, where 
they say, " that they were well wean- 
ed from the delicate milk of their 
mother country, and inured to the 
difficulties of a strange land. That 
they were knit together in a strict 
and sacred bond, by virtue of which 



41 

they held themselves bound to take 
care of the good of each other, and 
of the whole. That it was not with 
them as with other men, whom small 
things could discourage, or small dis- 
contents cause to wish themselves 
home again." 

I shall now offer a few general ob- 
servations on Nova Scotia, New 
Brunswick and Newfoundland, with 
a word or two about that first of all 
lands of promise, Poyais, which al- 
though last, is not least in the estima- 
tion of some people. 

The territory of L'Arcadie, as it 
was called by the French, formerly 
extended a distance of 300 leagues 
in length from New England to the 
Gulph of St. Lawrence, and back to 
the province of Lower Canada and 
the American States ; but this range 
pf territory has been, since its r pos« 



42 

session by the English, divided into 
two separate governments, Nova Sco- 
tia and New Brunswick, 

Jacques Cartier, the French navi- 
gator, having in 1535, explored and 
surveyed the Gulph of St. Lawrence 
and the whole of this coast, conveyed 
the first correct idea to his native 
country of Canada, and the advan- 
tages of a trade with the natives of 
all that part of the continent of North 
America. 

There does not appear to have been 
any permanent settlements establish- 
ed in either of these countries, until 
the year 1604, when a squadron was 
fitted out by De Montes, Governor of 
Canada. Taking the command in 
person, he founded St. Croix and 
Port Royale, now Annapolis Royal, 
in a bay towards the south-west coast 
of that territory. 



43 

The English at that time claimed 
from the discovery of the Cabots a 
prior right to the whole North Ameri- 
can Continent, they therefore dis- 
possessed the French settlers, and 
James the First gave a grant of 
L' Arcadia to Sir William Alexander, 
Secretary of State for Scotland. He 
called it New Scotland, or Nova 
Scotia, and this honor appears to be 
the only advantage of any importance 
he derived from it, for in 1630 it was 
again given up to France. 

Continual jealousies and disputes 
with the colonists of New England 
once more brought the Arcadians into 
difficulty in 1654, when Oliver Crom- 
well sent out Colonel Sedgwick to 
reduce it, and it was confirmed to 
England the following year. " But 
Sir William Alexander having sold in 
1632 his right of property in the soil, 
to. M. Claude de la Tour d'Ounay, a 



44 

French protestant ; M. St. Estienne, 
son and heir of the above Claude de 
la Tour, came over to England in or- 
der to make out his claim, and had 
the property surrendered to him. 
This La Tour sold his right to Sir 
Thomas Temple, who was governor 
as well as possessor of the soil, until 
1662, when Nova Scotia was deli- 
vered up by Charles the Second, an 
equivalent of ten thousand pounds 
being stipulated for Sir Thomas Tem- 
ple, but never paid."* 

By the treaty of Breda in 1667, it 
was again given up to France, and 
continued under her government until 
1 690, when the inhabitants again be- 
came subjects of Great Britain. In 
1697, by the treaty of Ryswick, the 
French took possession of it. Soon 
after the war between that country 

* Russel. 



45 

and England, the New Englanders 
aided by four men of war from the 
mother country, finally reduced it in 
1710. Several ineffectual attempts 
were afterwards made to recover it 
by the French in 1745 and 1746, but 
by the treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle, — 
Nova Scotia was fully confirmed to 
the crown of Great Britain. 

\ ' Though the French inhabitants du- 
ring these hostilities had not actually 
taken up arms, they had lent such 
assistance to the enemy as was utterly 
inconsistent with their political situa- 
tion, — and as made the necessity of 
peopling Nova Scotia with British sub- 
jects fully evident. The peace which 
necessarily left a great number of 
men without employment, by the dis- 
banding of the troops and laying up 
of the ships, was favourable for such 
a project; and the ministry offered 



46 

particular advantages to all persons* 
who chose to go and settle in this 
extensive, and in many places fertile 
territory. 

" Every soldier, sailor and work- 
man was to have fifty acres of land for 
himself, and ten for every person he 
carried over in his family. All non- 
commissioned officers were allowed 
eighty for themselves, and fifteen for 
every person belonging to them ; en- 
signs 200 ; lieutenants 300 ; captains 
460, and all officers of higher rank 
600, together with 30 for each of 
their dependents. 

"The land was to be free of all 
taxes, for the first ten years, and never 
to pay above one shilling for fifty 
acres : Besides these encouragements, 
the government engaged to pay the 
charge of the passage, to build houses, 
to furnish all the necessary instru- 



47 

merits for fishery and agriculture, and 
to defray the expenses of subsistence 
for the first year. 

" In consequence of this liberal 
offer, 3,000 families, chiefly Germans, 
embarked for Nova Scotia in 1749, and 
three regiments of soldiers were sent 
to protect them from the natives, and 
garrison the new settlement. 

" That settlement was founded on 
the SE. side of the Peninsula, at a 
place which the Indians formerly 
called Chebucto, but which the Eng- 
lish named Halifax, in honour of the 
nobleman by whom it was projected, 
and by whose wisdom and spirit it 
was carried into execution."* 

Since 1749 the population has in- 
creased wonderfully, and the woods 
of Nova Scotia, and New Brunswick 
now contain many thousands of set- 
* Russel. 



48 

tiers, who are cutting away after the 
manner of Mr. Boon, who has been 
before noticed. 

In my passage from Halifax to 
Quebec, I remember being particu- 
larly struck with the romantic beauty 
of the scenery in what is called the 
Cut of Canso, which divides the Is- 
land of Cape Breton from the main. 
We were seven days beating through 
this passage of seventy miles, the 
widest part of which, is very little 
broader than the Thames at London 
Bridge. The village (if the straggling 
huts of the settlers may be called 
one,) at the entrance, bears the name 
of Canso; and a few miles farther on, 
the late Sir John Warren had an es- 
tate, which, in a few years, will, it is 
supposed, be of great value, from its 
situation, and the quality of the timber, 
This passage is, in some places, so 



49 

exceedingly narrow, and the shores 
so amazingly bold and high, that the 
bowsprit of the Success frigate, was 
often very nearly coming in contact 
with them, and in several instances 
the appearance of the immense woods, 
apparently towering above the mast- 
heads of the ship, excited in us all 
surprise and admiration. 

" Luenburg* was founded by 800 
Germans from Halifax ; at first it did 
not promise much, but by the unremit- 
ting exertion of that warlike and indus- 
trious people, it is now rapidly advanc- 
ing toward prosperity. It is but 
justice to say that the Germans make 
excellent settlers, they have fertilized 
all the countries under the English 
dominion, to which chance has con- 
ducted them. By their patient la- 

* Russel. 
D 



50 

bows Nova Scotia now produces ex- 
cellent flax, which, independent of its 
fishery and its utility, as a naval and 
military station, will in time render it 
a valuable acquisition to Great Bri- 
tain." 

Frederick town is the capital, and 
St. John's the principal sea port of 
New Brunswick. 

Newfoundland was discovered by 
John Cabot, a Venetian mariner in the 
service of Henry VII. of England, — it 
is upwards of 300 miles long, and 200 
broad ; but although many have at- 
tempted to succeed in cultivating the 
soil, instead of depending on the fish- 
ery, none appear to have effected the 
object they had in view. This, there- 
fore, is no very desirable country for 
the emigrant, but still it would be pre- 
ferable to Poyais under the Cacique 
M'Gregor, or any other Cacique. 



51 



I feel no inclination to lend myself 
to either party, the Honduras Bay- 
men, or the Poyais "holders;" and I 
take it for granted that no man, in his 
senses, or capable of judging much 
beyond which is his right-hand and 
which is his left, would lend himself 
to the speculations of a party of ad- 
venturers, to whom of course in the 
first instance, power would be law. 

It is an odd thing that people 
should be found so utterly devoid of 
common sense and feeling, as to place 
themselves and their families in a 
country like Poyais, under the des- 
potic government of a few men, total 
strangers to them, and of whose abi- 
lity to conduct the affairs of an in- 
fant colony they cannot possibly form 
anything like an idea. 

I do not mean to say that those 
who choose to strike out from theold- 
d2 



52 

fashioned, beaten track in life, which 
their fathers have trodden before them, 
are to be deterred by common difficul- 
ties, I would rather point to the text 
chosen for the head of this letter; 
but, still I set so high a value upon 
constitutional law, such as I have 
been accustomed to see exercised in 
my native country, that unless the 
leaders of this said Poyais settlement 
were well known, as being fully equal 
to the task of mildly and properly 
executing despotic power, &c. &c, I 
should feel no inclination to follow 
them. 

Unless a man has certain positive 
advantages before him, why should 
he subject himself to the certain mise- 
ries of such an undertaking as set- 
tling on the Mosquito shore, whilst 
the British provinces and colonies in 
North America and elsewhere are 



53 



open to his exertions and enter 
prize ? 

It does not, however, appear to be 
generally understood that the Black 
River was actually occupied by the 
English for several years previous to 
1786. — By the resolutions of the 
House of Assembly of Jamaica in 
1782, we see that Colonel Despard 
(then Captain Despard,) who after- 
wards terminated his career upon the 
scaffold — "with a small undisci- 
plined and inferior force, attacked and 
took the Spanish Garrison at Black 
River, on the Mosquito Shore, made 
between seven and eight hundred of 
the enemy prisoners ; and rescued 
hundreds of our fellow subjects from 
captivity, and restored them to their 
possessions/' 

In consequence of this and other 
services, it appears that he was soon 



54 

afterwards appointed by the Governor 
of Jamaica, a colonel of provincials. 
It was, indeed, considered of such 
importance that he received the thanks 
of the Indian chiefs on the coast, of 
the governor, council, and assembly of 
Jamaica, and also of the King himself, 
through Lord Sydney, then Secretary 
of State. 

Black River, with the settlement 
upon it, and the adjacent islands on 
the Mosquito shore, remained in the 
possession of the English until 1786, 
when they were given up to the Spa- 
niards in return for privileges granted 
by that power to British subjects in 
the Bay of Honduras- — At this time 
there were upwards of 2,000 people 
including slaves, settled in the ceded 
territory, the greater part of whom 
were removed to Honduras. 

Whatever may be said to the con- 



55 

trary by those interested in the Hon- 
duras trade, and by those who know 
nothing at all about either the cli- 
mate or the soil, and yet on either 
side pretend to point out its advan- 
tages and disadvantages, — to gull the 
unwary, or to prevent a rival settle- 
ment in that quarter — there can be lit- 
tle doubt — but that if this settlement 
of Poyais, had its origin in an act of 
the government, and was supported 
like the emigrations to Chebuctoo Bay 
in 1749, to which we have alluded, 
it would succeed — even in opposition 
to all the efforts of the mighty mo- 
narch of the Mosquito shore, who, I 
apprehend, with all his household 
troops, cuirassiers, and lancers, would 
very soon be made to cry out with a 
greater man than himself, " Save him- 
self who can,"* by a third part of the 

* Napoleon after the Battle of Waterloo. 



56 

force sent to guard the first settle- 
ments in Nova Scotia. 

The following extract from Rus- 
sel's America will show more clearly 
how this country, of which we have 
lately heard so much is situated, and 
the opinion entertained of it in 
1778. 

" A territory, however, no less 
neglected, claims our notice before 
we quit this part of the American 
continent. Between the sea and the 
Spanish provinces of Honduras and 
Nicarague, extending from Cape 
Honduras to Port St. Juan, lies a 
country inhabited by a free people, 
whose attachment to the English has 
long been remarkable, and who per- 
mit no other Europeans to visit their 
coasts. 

This space takes in 150 leagues of 
the shore, and forms an obtuse angle 
at Cape Gracias a Dios, having one 



57 

of its sides exposed to the North, the 
other to the East. — The general name 
of Mosquitos is given to all the nations 
or tribes who occupy this tract, as 
well as to those who inhabit the in- 
ner space, between the coast and the 
higher chain of mountains, which 
form the Spanish Frontier, and their 
country in like manner, is known by 
the name of Mosquito, on the Mos- 
quito shore. 

" Of all the tribes, the Mosquitos 
are the most numerous, as well as 
the bsavest. They muster about 15 
or 1,800 warriors. Their country, 
properly so called, is about Cape 
Gracias a Dios, near the mouth, and 
on the banks of the Great Cape 
River. It is one of the most healthy 
and beautiful spots in the world. 
Here are settled about thirty English 
families, who have begun plantations 
d3 



58 

of sugar on the lands given them by 
the Mosquitos. 

"The government of this people is 
perfectly republican, they acknow- 
ledge no kind of permanent authority. 
In the wars which they carry on 
against the Spanish Indians, and 
which must obstruct their population, 
they choose as their commander the 
most brave and experienced of their 
warriors; he who, on former occa- 
sions, has given proofs of his pru- 
dence and valour. After the war is 
over, his power ceases. 

"The Mosquitos are distinguished 
into two sorts — the Red, and Blacks 
or Sambos. The first are the original 
inhabitants of the country; the se- 
cond, the descendants of about fifty 
negroes, whom a Portuguese Cap- 
tain had brought from Guinea, and 
was carrying to Brazil ; but who ren- 



Kft* 



59 

dered themselves masters of the 
vessel, and threw all but one man 
overboard. The assistance of this 
man, however, was insufficient to 
enable them to navigate the vessel; 
which left at the mercy of the winds, 
was driven upon Cape Gracias a Dios, 
where the crew fell into the hands of 
the Mosquitos, among whom the ne- 
groes lived for some time in a state 
of servitude, and afterwards became 
the partners of their dangers and 
toils. 

"The Portuguese mariner was so 
much like a Spaniard, against whom 
the animosity of the Mosquitos is im- 
placable, that his life was with diffi- 
culty spared ; and after he had been 
a slave for two years, it was deter- 
mined to sacrifice him at the funeral 
of the master to whose lot he had 
fallen, that he might serve him in the 



60 



other world. Luckily, the Portu- 
guese had but one eye. He repre- 
sented to the general assembly of the 
nation, which was convened upon the 
occasion, that a one-eyed man could 
be of service to nobody in the other 
world, as it was difficult to see clear 
there, even with two. His argument 
succeeded, the Mosquitos not only 
granted him his life, but also his 
liberty, with a wife; and the sur- 
name of, ( the Man who knows a 
great deal.' 

" The Mosquitos are divided into 
four principal tribes, under the pro- 
tection of the English government, to 
which they submitted themselves 
early in the last century. They con- 
sider the governor of Jamaica, to 
whom this submission was made, as 
the greatest Potentate upon earth. 
Their enmity against the Spaniards, 



' — •" — 



61 



by whom their ancestors were driven 
from the fertile possessions near the 
Lake of Nicaragua, goes as far back 
as the conquest of Mexico, and their 
friendship for the English is as old 
as the first expeditions of the Bucca- 
neers, against their common enemy. 

" Like all uncivilized nations they 
have but few wants, and are very in- 
dolent ; ' I am not hungry,' is their 
common saying, when they do not 
choose to work, nor do they even 
labour except when this need is very 
sensibly felt. Then they go to hunt, 
fish, or to catch or harpoon turtle, an 
exercise at which they are very dex- 
trous ; or otherwise they hire them- 
selves to the English settlers to cut 
mahogany, or to build canoes, which 
are sold at Jamaica for the purpose of 
fishing. Rice, cacao, indigo, to- 
bacco, and other valuable produc- 



62 

tions, might be cultivated to advan- 
tage in this country. At present, 
England receives from it tyger and 
buck skins, dying woods of several 
kinds, gums and balsams, sarsapa- 
rilla, tortoiseshells, and zebra wood 
for the cabinet makers ; but those 
only in small quantities. All the free 
tribes, both inland and upon the 
coast, are allies of the Mosquitos, 
and of the English. 

" Besides this settlement, so unrea- 
sonably neglected, we find another 
English colony about twenty leagues 
to the East of Cape Honduras, at the 
mouth of Black River, by which name 
it is generally known. This place 
was, during sixty years, the asylum 
of the log- wood cutters, when driven 
by the Spaniards from the forest of 
East Yucatan. There they waited in 
safety, until such time as their enemies 



-**£*?'-■' JflU 



63 

retired ; and as those expulsions were 
frequent, and always unforeseen, the 
ships that went to load with wood in 
the Bay of Honduras, chose first to 
touch at Black River, in. order to get 
intelligence, and determine, in con- 
sequence of it, the manner of pur- 
suing their voyage. 

"Wood-cutters, sailors, deserters, 
and adventurers of every kind fixed 
themselves insensibly in this place. 
They received merchandise in re- 
turn for the fruits of their industry, 
and soon established a lucrative trade 
with the Spaniards in the inland parts. 
The last treaty of peace, which 
secured to the wood-cutters the un- 
interrupted enjoyment of their forests, 
far from making Black River be de- 
serted, has given more activity to the 
settlement. 

"The sea coast here is sandy, gene- 



64 

rally low and swampy, with mangrove 
trees ; but higher up among the rivers 
and lagoons, the soil is more fertile, 
and produces many plantains, cocoa- 
nut-trees, maize, yams, and other ve- 
getables The passion for drinking 
rum has made the colony begin the 
planting of sugar-canes. The rivers, 
as well as the lagoons, are extremely 
well stored with fish, and the forests 
are filled with deer and game. On 
the shores they catch the finest turtles 
from March until September. Be- 
sides this fishery, which is very ad- 
vantageous, the Black River settlers 
cut mahogany and zebra wood, and 
gather a great deal of sarsaparilla. 

"A colony so well situated, though 
neglected by government, cannot 
fail of increasing. It is one of those 
plants which, placed by the hand 
of chance in a corner— flourish, mul- 



• ■ ■ •■—»•■ 



65 



tiply, and bear fruit of themselves with- 
out the attention of the gardener." 

Such is Russel's description of the 
country called Poyais ; a description, 
no doubt, highly coloured, particu- 
larly in that part of it which states it 
to be, " one of the most healthy and 
beautiful spots in the world." 

Granting it, however, to be all 
this, and judging from the result of 
similar attempts in various parts of 
the world; we have, certainly, no 
reason to expect that whilst the en- 
terprize, and the promised advan- 
tages, remain with one individual, 
unauthorised, unacknowledged, and 
unsupported by the government, it 
ever will succeed. 

It is not to the climate, the soil, 
the geographical situation, or the 
person, at the head of this Poyais 
scheme that I object, it is to the 



66 

system of making the interests of the 
many subservient to the good of 
the few. 

Poyais may very probably present 
a^s many advantages to the emigrant, 
as any of the other countries to which 
we have alluded, when first settled ; 
and of Sir Gregor M'Gregor I know 
nothing, excepting by common re- 
port; — common report, what is it? — 
if it is once resolved to sacrifice a 
man's character who has struck out 
from the common track of life — " it 
is an easy matter to pick up sticks 
enough from any thicket where it has 
strayed to make a fire to offer it up 
with." 

How many brave men has common 
report made cowards of ? How many 
good men has this many-tongued 
monster transformed into villains, 
therefore feel no inclination to discuss 



67 



the conduct or merits of Sir Gregor 
M'Gregor; for what man can place 
his hand upon his own heart, and 
say that he is himself altogether what 
he ought to be. 

But as I have professed to devote 
these few pages principally to those 
who are looking round the world for 
some spot, where they can live upon the 
fruits of their industry, free and un- 
disturbed — I shall conclude this 
letter by the following observations, 
and leave the reader to form his own 
conclusions. 

We will suppose that some sort of 
law will be administered in Poyais, 
not altogether military, but civil ; to 
these the emigrant of course, on tak- 
ing possession of his land, makes 
himself amenable. These laws may 
be good or bad, just as it happens — or 
according to the ability of the law 



68 

giver, who, by the way, must neces- 
sarily be just the person who will 
take care to secure the power in his 
own hands. 

Now should the emigrant in Poyais, 
through a dulness of intellect, not 
see things so clearly as the Cacique 
wishes him; or should he, inadver- 
tently, transgress these laws made not 
by his own concurrence, but by the 
cacique, and by him declared ab- 
solute — he must abide the conse- 
quences. 

If he is sentenced to be hanged, 
who can he appeal to for a reversion 
of his sentence? The Cacique is as 
absolute in his small way, as the 
great Mogul; and, if he chooses to 
put the law in force, nothing but a 
general turn-out can prevent him. 

In any of the British colonies, 
should the governor be guilty of any 



69 

arbitrary stretch of authority, he is 
amenable to a higher power for his 
conduct ; but, in Poyais, there is 
no one higher than the despotic head 
of a despotic government. 

Let the emigrant, therefore, bear 
in mind, that in Poyais he will be 
subject to laws not made by himself 
or his representative, and that these 
laws may be either good or bad ; if 
good, so much the better for all par- 
ties ; if bad, and he dares to give his 
opinion of them, he will, I imagine, 
stand a very fair chance of promotion, 
over the heads of his fellows. 

When he is kicking his heels, in a 
very uncomfortable manner, upon a 
stage fifty feet high, between this 
world and the next, — however much 
he may regret ever having placed 
himself out of the pale of protection 
from the government of his native 



70 

country, it will then be of no service 
to him. He may appeal to Heaven, 
and prepare for his departure ; but 
nothing can save him, if the Cacique 
be determined to exercise the despotic 
power he possesses. 



LETTER V. 



(s England, with all thy faults, I love thee still.' 



As I have no wish to enlist myself 
with those who have already suc- 
ceeded in detaching from the bosom 
of their mother country, so many 
thousands of her sons and daughters ; 
I leave others, when writing on emi- 
gration, to eulogize the United States 
of America. 

For the honour of my country I 
am bound to think, that there are but 
few — a very few amongst us, excepting 
those deceived by the grossest mis- 



72 

representations, who would array 
themselves under a foreign state, add 
to her strength in peace by their in- 
dustrious efforts, or in the event of a 
war between the two powers, take 
the field under her banners ; and call 
this becoming patriots in their old 
age.* 

There have been certainly traitors, 
and renegadoes in every age and na- 
tion, but I will not believe that many of 
my countrymen would willingly throw 
themselves in the way of becoming 
out-casts of this description. 

Excepting such men as can publicly 
ask — what is country ? and answer it 
by saying, 9 the soil, of this I was 
only the occupant —the government? 
I abhorred its deeds and its principles. 

* I am thus become a patriot in my old age. — 
Birkbeck's Letters from the Illinois. 



73 

the church ? I did not believe in its- 
doctrines, and had no reverence for 
the clergy. The army ? — No — 
the law ? — We have the same laws 
here with some omissions and some 
improvements," &c. &c. Excepting 
such men, or those egregiously de- 
ceived by false statements, and those 
who are totally unacquainted with 
the British Provinces in North 
America, very few would emigrate 
to the United States. 

Men possessed of superior intellect, 
it is true, choose to hold up America 
to the admiration of the world, and 
by their conduct and writings, en- 
deavour to induce others to think and 
act as they profess to do on the sub- 
ject ; but whilst they are so employed, 
as it were, offering a premium for 
desertion, may it not be asked, are 

E 



74 



they not prostituting those abilities, 
disgracing themselves, and dishonour- 
ing their country ? — I leave them to 
settle the question with their own 
consciences ; for myself, it is suffi- 
cient to show the emigrant, as clearly 
as my humble ability will permit, a 
British Colony, where he may enjoy, 
at least, as much liberty, indepen- 
dence, and comfort, as he would in 
the United States of America ; where 
the people are, at least, equally 
happy, industrious, and brave, as 
the people of the United States ; and 
where riding the rail, gouging, and 
rifling, with all the minor etceteras of 
liberty and equality, are altogether 
unknown. 

Liberty and equality, these are the 
high sounding phrases which the 
American dins in the ear of the stran- 



75 

ger,even in the midst of slavery exer- 
cised by himself. 

The same man, who in his boasted 
republican pride would pretend high 
offence at being required to drink the 
health of the king of England, would, 
in his despotic brutality, turn round 
and chastise his slave, probably for 
merely holding his horse by the curb, 
instead of the snaffle. 

Slave, did I say? — in a country 
where we hear so much about liberty, 
equality, and the rights of man, we 
naturally suppose that personal 
slavery is altogether unknown. In a 
country where all men profess to be 
equal, we are led to imagine that no 
portion of the human race can be put 
upon aJevel with the brute creation. 
In short, in a country where liberty 
is the universal theme, we think it 
e 2 



76 

probable, that its principles may be 
fully understood, and its attendant 
blessings properly appreciated. 

But what is the fact ? let us see 
her great admirer, Mr. Birkbeck. 

" I want language," he says, " to 
express the loathing I feel for per- 
sonal slavery; practised by free men 
it is most detestable ; it is the leprosy 
of the United States, and a foul 
blotch which more or less contami- 
nates the entire system, in public and 
in private, from the president's chair, 
to the cabin of the hunter ;" and yet, 
just before, he tells us that, " Liberty 
is no subject of dispute or specula- 
tion among us Back-woodsmen, it is 
the very atmosphere we breathe." 

Now as I hate tyranny as cordially 
as Mr. Morris Birkbeck, let me not, 
in deciding upon a new country, 



77 

choose one in which slavery exists ; 
for it is a perfect farce to talk of 
liberty in a strain as if all the rest 
of the world were totally ignorant of 
its blessings, in a country where the 
eye constantly turns upon objects de- 
graded merely on account of their 
colour; or of law, where there is 
one for the white, and another for 
the black man ; indeed, where such 
things are, it is an insult to proper 
feeling and common sense, to talk 
about the rights of man, or a superior 
knowledge and enjoyment of rational 
freedom. 

When divested, therefore, of the 
false colouring which some people 
have given it, America does not pre- 
sent itself in all that purity, or enjoy 
all that liberty and equality, which 
the American would fain make all the 
rest of the world believe it to possess. 



78 

From the writings of several It 
would appear, that of the many 
thousands who settle in the back 
woods of America, not one of them 
ever think of bettering their condi- 
tion by crossing into Canada. If we 
are to form an opinion upon what 
they say on the subject, we should 
conclude that " the beautiful prairies," 
the " loveliness of nature," and her 
bounties, so superabundantly and 
especially bestowed upon the United 
States, were fully sufficient, together 
with the superior liberty they enjoy, 
("to imitate which is forgery,") to 
keep them within the American 
boundary. 

But, alas, how fatal to all this is 
the reality ; there is no man who has 
passed from Montreal to the head of 
the Great Lakes, who will not re- 
member seeing thousands of Ameri- 



_ 



79 

cans settled within the Canadian 
boundary. Previous to the late war, 
and since the peace, vast numbers of 
emigrants from the United States have 
taken up lands and distributed them- 
selves throughout the whole of Upper 
and Lower Canada, and they still 
continue to do so. 

Surely this fact speaks volumes, for 
if the government of America, its 
soil, and climate, are so vastly su- 
perior to the British Provinces, why, 
in the name of Yankee independence, 
do so many hundreds and thousands 
leave it ? 

For the emigrant, therefore, who 
has no inclination for " liberty and 
equality" in a land of masters and 
slaves, or to sever himself for ever 
from his native country, his early 
connexions and friends, either of the 
British colonies of Nova Scotia, New 



80 

Brunswick, or the Canadas, is far 
preferable to the United States of 
America. 

The emigrant, in a movement of so 
much importance as that of choosing 
a new country, where he will have to 
await what farther portion of good or 
evil providence may have in reserve 
for him, will do well to consider and 
reconsider the subject. For me it 
now only remains to give such parti- 
culars of Upper and Lower Canada 
as may probably prove useful to those 
who have already decided upon 
settling in that country. 

Should the recollections of eld 
friends and circumstances connected 
with the places through which we 
shall pass (in our line of march of a 
thousand miles from the sea) occasion 
me to digress occasionally, I doubt 
not but the liberal reader will readily 



81 

forgive me. Why, however, should 
I attempt to apologize, I am but a 
plain man, and had better proceed in 
my own way. 

The emigrant who has ample means 
at his disposal, and who resides in 
any of the western counties of 
England, should proceed by way of 
Liverpool to New York. The ex- 
pences of this route will be greater 
than by Quebec, but this disad- 
vantage will be more than com- 
pensated, by the great additional 
comfort. 

The distance from London to 
Quebec is 3,000 miles, from Liver- 
pool to New York about 2,000, and 
as the sea voyage is the worst part of 
the undertaking for a family man, the 
convenience of the latter route is 
evident. 

Should he live at any considerable 
e 3 



82 

distance from Liverpool, a con* 
veyance, suited to his family and cir- 
cumstances, may be purchased, in- 
stead of travelling by coach, which 
would be found equally expensive 
and more inconvenient. This vehicle, 
on his arrival at that port, can be 
shipped on board the packet, and will 
be found serviceable on the other 
side the Atlantic. The heavy bag- 
gage, and in fact everything but such 
articles as are absolutely necessary 
for the voyage, should be insured, 
and shipped in another vessel direct 
to Montreal, which place they will 
most probably reach by the time he 
arrives with his family. 

He will find the packets fitted with 
every consideration for the comfort 
and accommodation of passengers, 
and ready to sail on the 1st, 8th, 16th, 
and 24th of every month. Messrs. 



83 

Cropper and Benson, the agents, 
will furnish every information respect- 
ing them. The charge for each cabin 
passenger is thirty-five guineas, half 
price being generally demanded for 
children under fourteen years of age. 
The steerage passage is about half the 
expense of the cabin, and is provided 
accordingly. The chaise freight will 
be at the rate of thirty shillings per 
ton measurement, and 10/. for him- 
self, the same for his wife, and half 
as much for each of his children will 
be found amply sufficient to bear all 
the expences of the cabin passenger 
up the Hudson to Montreal. 

No person, whether he embarks at 
Liverpool or London, unless he has 
some positive advantage before him, 
should take out any kind of mer- 
chandize, if he does he will assuredly 



84 

repent it ; independent of anxiety and 
inconvenience, he will in nine cases 
out of ten, find that from the want 
of a previous local knowledge of the 
country, he has purchased just such 
articles as are not wanted, and con- 
sequently, should he wish to turn 
them into cash to enable him to com- 
mence operations, he must sell them 
at a loss. 

If he has a capital to spare for this 
purpose after he has established him- 
self, and become in some degree 
acquainted with the general imports 
of the colony, and the wants of his 
immediate neighbourhood, he can 
then send home with his small ven- 
ture of pot and pearl-ash, an order 
for the proceeds to be returned him 
in goods fit for the Canadian market. 
By this arrangement he will secure a 



85 

double advantage, in which, if he has 
any previous knowledge of trade, he 
will soon find his interest. 

No person has the least occasion 
to take out with him any kind of 
agricultural implements — every de- 
scription of instrument for cultivating 
the earth may be purchased at Mon- 
treal, for the price they will cost if 
taken out from England. A few of 
the superior kind of carpenter's tools 
may probably cost a little more ; but 
clothing is all the emigrant need be 
at all desirous of taking from this 
country. 

The route I have just mentioned 
from Liverpool to New York, must 
only be undertaken by the wealthier 
class of emigrants — others with more 
confined means should embark from 
the nearest port, from whence they 
can ship themselves direct for Quebec. 



86 



From the river Thames the charge 
is nearly the same to that city, as 
from Liverpool to New York, but the 
accommodation and the table pro- 
vided is inferior, the Liverpool 
packets being fitted expressly for 
passengers. The poorer class of 
emigrants may get out to Quebec for 
61. each, in ships which are occa- 
sionally entered out for passengers 
only ; for this, they are provided with 
beef, biscuit, and rum, but their 
bedding and every other requisite for 
the voyage they must themselves pre- 
pare previous to going on board. 

Although ships go up as far as 
Montreal, 180 miles above Quebec, 
still from the great delay at the latter 
place, and occasionally in working 
up the river St. Lawrence afterwards, 
it will be much better for him to 
engage his passage to Quebec only. 



87 

On his arrival he should if possible, 
so contrive as to move from the ship 
to the steam vessel, instead of going 
on shore, where he will incur expence 
and a loss of time, which he may 
afterwards find of greater conse- 
quence. The length of voyage from 
Liverpool to New York is generally 
from twenty to forty days, from Lon- 
don to Quebec from thirty to sixty, 
and from Quebec to Montreal, in the 
steam vessel, about a day and a half, 
in a sailing vessel it may be three 
weeks. The passage in the steam 
vessel is about 21. each person in the 
cabin, U. in the steerage, and for 
this sum an excellent table is pro- 
vided. 

It should be borne in mind that the 
river St. Lawrence is impassable from 
about the beginning of November to 
the end of March. The ice during 



88 

that period either stretches entirely 
across the channel, or floats about in 
such formidable shoals as renders na- 
vigation totally impossible ; added to 
which, late in the season and very 
early in the spring, bad weather and 
gales of wind are frequently en- 
countered after making the banks of 
Newfoundland. Indeed, here, the 
Heavens appear eternally shrouded 
in gloom, and the waves perpetually 
agitated. 

The Island of Anticoste, in the 
Gulph, has proved fatal to many, but 
there are now two solitary beings 
stationed upon it by government, 
whose duty it is to furnish every as- 
sistance in their power to any unfor- 
tunate people who may be wrecked 
upon the coast. 

When the celebrated Captain Cook 
was under the command of Admiral 



89 

Saunders in this quarter of the world, 
he minutely surveyed the whole of 
the gulph and river, since which time 
it has gradually become better known, 
and although it still is, and always 
will be, a dangerous navigation, but 
very few accidents occur. 

The emigrant who has never been 
to sea before, must constantly bear 
in mind that the same providence, 
which shows itself daily in a thou- 
sand instances of wonderful inter- 
position in his native country, is 
equally willing and able to protect 
him whilst exposed to the perils of 
the ocean. 

Cowardice, although perhaps in 
some cases, a constitutional infirmity, 
is still a disgrace to any man, but 
more especially to him who has pro- 
fessed to set all personal hazard and 



90 

difficulty at defiance. Let him rest 
fully assured that the greater portion 
of what is generally considered dan- 
ger, bears no affinity to it if looked 
manfully in the face. 

When the Success, Trooper Frigate, 
Captain Barclay, in which I had my 
passage from Halifax to Quebec, was 
nearly lost in a gale of wind in the 
night at the entrance of the gulph, 
I went below to inform my sleeping 
friends in the ward-room of their situ- 
ation. My valued friend, Lieutenant 
John Hewitt, of the corps to which 
I have the honour to belong, imme- 
diately took a view of the rocks, 
and then seeing clearly that it would, 
in a few moments, be all right, or all 
wrong with us, he began to draw on 
his inexpressibles, and to dress him- 
self with great minuteness. " My 



91 

fine fellow," said I " I think you may 
dispense with your drapery, and pre- 
pare to swim for your life." " My 
good friend,' ' replied he, with admir- 
able sangfroid, "let us by all means go 
on shore decent, for how do we know 
who we may be introduced to ? " 

Those who were on board the Suc- 
cess, Fox, and Nemesis Frigates, 
will remember, that had we struck 
upon the rocks that night, the great 
probability is, that not one person 
could have been saved; and, indeed, 
those on board the Fox, having 
been exposed to greater danger than 
ourselves, will well remember the 
circumstance to which I have now 
alluded. Although I do not mean to 
assume to myself a greater share 
of fortitude than other people, let 
me not live or die like a coward. 



92 



li Gracious powers ! which erst 
have opened the lips of the dumb in 
his distress, and made the tongue of 
the stammerer speak plain, when I 
shall arrive at this dreaded page, 
deal not with me then with a stinted 
hand."* 



Sterne. 



LETTER VI. 



When I think of death as a thing worth thinking of, it is 
with the hope of one day pressing some hard fought and well 
contested field of battle, and dying with the shouis of 
victory in my ear, that would be worth dying for, and more 
it would be worth, having lived for. 

Claverhouse in Old Unreality. 



There is not in nature a more beau- 
tiful scene than the Harbour of Que- 
bec and the surrounding country 
presents, immediately after passing 
the Island of Orleans. 

Here, at the distance of 130 leagues 
from the sea, the St. Lawrence 
shrinks from the breadth of three 



94 

leagues to that of a single mile, and 
although the long line of settlements 
on the left shore may have gradually 
prepared the mind for some place of 
importance, still it will be taken by 
surprize on falling as it were suddenly 
upon a new world. 

The Upper Town rises magnificently 
a considerable height above the level 
of the river, whilst the lower divided 
into wharfs and spacious warehouses, 
and standing on ground over whicli 
the tide, until these few years, regu- 
larly flowed, conveys at once an idea 
of commercial prosperity and inde- 
pendence. 

The fortifications are formidable, 
and present many a dark and frown- 
ing battery, one in particular, com- 
pleting, commands the harbour and 
Lower town. 

The palace and several other 



95 

buildings hanging tottering over a 
perpendicular rock, gives to the city 
of Quebec an appearance of more 
than common interest. But however 
much we may feel gratified in con- 
templating this noble entrepot of our 
North American possessions, the eye 
turns with more pleasing satisfaction 
to the wild and romantic scenery 
which surrounds it. The celebrated 
fall of Montmorenci, the number- 
less cascades rushing from the woods 
and tumbling down the rocks, toge- 
ther with the little village of Point 
Levi, with its whitened cottages 
scattered amongst the green foliage 
of the trees, presents a scene upon 
which the contemplative mind will 
dwell with incessant delight. 

The Island of Orleans, which is 
twenty miles long, and well culti- 
vated, demands more than common 



96 

attention, from its having been occu- 
pied by the English army during the 
operations against Quebec. 

Here it was that the gallant Wolfe 
planned that brilliant attack, the suc- 
cess of which soon after covered him 
with immortal glory, and finally led 
to the conquest of the whole country. 

As a farther proof, if any were 
wanting, that amiability of disposition 
is not incompatible with public duty, 
or with the character of a hero, and 
that minds capable of forming and 
executing enterprizes of the greatest 
daring, are susceptible of the mildest 
and kindest impressions, General 
Wolfe declared, that he would rather 
have been the author of "Gray's 
Elegy in a Country Church Yard" 
(which had just then made its appear- 
ance) than the conqueror of half the 
world. 



97 



Seated near the stone on which 
that truly great man sat, when his 
gallant soul took its flight for the 
realms of eternity, amidst the glorious 
shouts of " Victory, and they run," 
I readily gave myself up to that ele- 
vation of soul, a portion of which 
even the coldest hearts mast feel, when 
conscious that they are upon ground, 
sacred to valour, and where the bones 
of so many fine fellows have long 
ere this, mingled with the dust. 

Whilst enjoying this intellectual 
feast, I beheld in imagination the gal- 
lant Wolfe, struggling with the innu- 
merable difficulties he had to en- 
counter previous to the action, which 
immortalized him for ever, and en- 
rolled his name amongst departed 
heroes- Then through the gloom of 
night I beheld innumerable boats, si- 
lently wafting upon the bosom of the 



98 



tide, the troops destined for the attack, 
the final overthrow of the enemy, 
and the routed Frenchmen flying 
within the walls of the city, to avoid 
the lightning of the Scotch clay- 
more. 

Time rolled on, and I beheld the 
brave Montgomorie, vainly endea- 
vour to storm the Lower Town, and 
perish in the attempt, the arrival of 
the British Squadron, and the conse- 
quent raising of the siege. 

The Marquis de Montcalm, the 
French General, and his second in 
command, were both mortally wound- 
ed in the battle of Quebec, about 
a thousand of the enemy, including 
a great number of Officers, were 
made prisoners, and almost an 
equal number were killed in the 
battle, or in the pursuit. 

The wreck of their army unable 



99 

to keep the field, retired first to 
Point au Tremble, and afterwards 
to Trois Rivieres, and Montreal* 
The loss of the English in num- 
bers was inconsiderable; both the 
killed and the wounded did not ex- 
ceed 500 men. But the death of 
General Wolfe was a national mis- 
fortune, and accompanied with cir- 
cumstances sufficiently interesting to 
merit a particular detail. 

He first received a shot in his 
wrist, but wrapt a handkerchief round 
it, and encouraged his men to ad- 
vance, without the least discompo- 
sure. Soon after, he received a shot 
in the groin, which he also concealed : 
even when the fatal bullet lodged 
in his breast, he suffered himself 
unwillingly to be carried behind the 
ranks. Still his anxiety for the 
fortune of the field continued under 
f 2 



100 

all the agonies of approaching dissolu- 
tion, and when told that the French 
army was totally routed, and fled on 
all sides— "Then," said he, "I am 
satisfied," and immediately expired, 
in a kind of transport of departing 
joy, which gave to his dying counte- 
nance an air of exultation. 

Wolfe at the age of thirty-five, 
united the ardour, the humanity and 
enlarged views of the hero, to the 
presence of mind, and skill of the 
commander. He needed only years 
and experience, to place him on a 
level with the greatest generals of 
ancient or modern times. 

Montcalm, the French general, 
was scarcely his inferior. Though 
less fortunate in the last scene of 
his life, he made the most perfect 
dispositions that human prudence 



101 

could suggest, both before the action, 
and during the engagement. * 

The ride from Quebec, to the fall 
of Montmorenci, (a distance of six 
miles), is exceedingly interesting, 
the whole line of road being covered 
with pretty little villages, and de- 
tached farms, the rural neatness of 
which, cannot fail in exciting admira- 
tion. 

The Canadians, naturally a happy 
people, partake in a great degree the 
animation of countenance, and the 
light hearted vivacity of manners of 
the natives of Old France. 

With plenty of land to cultivate, 
the man who lives by the produce of 
the earth, depends only on the Al- 
mighty and himself, and this feeling 
of real and perfect independence, 

* See Russel's History of America, and Gazette. 



102 

making him happy and content, 
influences every thing around him, 
and the stranger consequently feels 
himself to be amongst the simplest, 
and the happiest people in the world. 

There can be no recollection more 
gratifying than that in travelling to 
the very outpost of civilization in this 
extensive country, nothing like dis- 
tress is to be seen, no man soliciting 
aid with his hat in his hand, or asking 
indiscriminate charity. 

In the principal cities and towns, 
where the idle and the profligate 
congregate together, and endeavour 
to find some easier way of procuring 
a subsistence than by cultivating the 
land, such things are ; but in districts 
removed from those sources of evil* 
although there may be poverty in 
abundance, positive distress, such as 
we daily meet with throughout all 



103 

the countries of Europe, is altogether 
unknown. 

The falls of La Chaudiere, and 
Montmorenci, in the neighbourhood 
of Quebec, are objects of great 
interest to travellers in British North 
America, and have consequently been 
often described. 

The latter with the river, derives its 
name from the French General, Mont- 
morenci, who resided near it, and 
whose Indian Servant being called 
after his master, was precipitated over 
them in his canoe, when in a state of 
inebriety. It has ever since been 
called the leap or fall of Mont- 
morenci. 

Should the emigrant, by any una- 
voidable circumstance, be detained a 
few days at Quebec, he should avail 
himself of the opportunity, and visit 



104 

both these falls. In his walk, or ride, 
he will see an abundance to interest 
him, and he may glean some informa- 
tion that may be useful in forwarding 
his future views. 

If he is an old soldier, and fond of 
his profession, with all its right and 
left ramifications, he may feast him- 
self to his heart's content ; and will 
return much more gratified than if he 
had shut himself up, mind and body, 
heart and soul, within the walls of 
the city. 

The emigrant on arriving* at Quebec 
will be 230 miles from the settlements 
on the Ottawa River, 300 miles 
from Perth, and 550 miles from the 
Niagara frontier. These distances 
will appear immense, but as regular 
water conveyances are now esta- 
blished the greater part of the way, 
upon terms proportionably reasonable 



105 

with the voyage from England, the 
expenses will not be found so serious 
as may be imagined. 

It will probably be more advisa- 
ble, however, for the settler with 
small means to pitch his tent upon 
the Ottawa, which he can reach at 
such a small comparative expense, 
thirty shillings for each person be- 
ing fully sufficient to pay the carriage 
from Quebec to the mouth of that 
river ; about thirty miles above 
Montreal. 

The latter place being the principal 
commercial depot of the interior of 
Canada, will at all times afford the 
settlers in the neighbourhood a 
better market for their produce, than 
they can possibly have higher up the 
country. This will alone, in most 
cases, equal the advantage of the 
superiority of climate, which the 



106 

Upper Province enjoys ; and the sav- 
ing of expence and time, the two 
essentials of the greatest consequence 
to the emigrant, will go a great way 
toward building him his log hous^ 
upon the Ottawa. 

Another reason for giving the 
preference to the settlements which 
strike off from the river St. Law- 
rence, in Lake St. Louis, and those in 
the neighbourhood of Perth, and 
the river Rideau, is that in the event 
of another war with the United 
States of America, the grand channel 
of communication with Kingston, our 
great naval depot upon the Lake 
Ontario, will branch off at the 
Ottawa River, a route running at a 
considerable distance from the 
American frontier, and preferable, 
for a variety of reasons, to the St. 
Lawrence. . 



107 

This is a consideration of the first 
importance, and the settler should 
be especially anxious, whether here, 
or in the Upper Province, to obtain 
a grant of land as free as possible 
from the chance of annoyance from a 
future enemy. From such inroads the 
back settlements in the Lower Pro- 
vince, above Montreal, are perfectly 
secure, being well defended by Forts 
Coteau du Lac, and Wellington, 
with a long line of rapids on the St. 
Lawrence, and Montreal at the foot 
of Lake St. Louis. 

The nearest point of the American 
territory, is at least fifty miles distant 
from the Ottawa, and from Perth on 
the river Tay. 

All this will be more readily under* 
stood by reference to the map, where 
the boundary line will be seen running 
from the Portage, on Lake Superior, 



108 

through the Lakes Erie, and Ontario- 
down the St. Lawrence, to latitude 
45, and on to the Connecticut river, 
from thence it follows the highlands, 
which separate the waters running 
into the St. Lawrence and Atlantic, 
until it reaches the boundary between 
the United States, and New Bruns- 
wick, due north of the river St. Croix. 

The divisional line which divides 
the two Provinces of Ifpper and 
Lower Canada, strikes off a little 
below the Point au Bod6t, in lake St. 
Francis, about thirty miles above the 
mouth of the Ottawa, and runs north- 
erly across to that river, and up it to 
its source on Lake Tomiscaming, and 
then due north to the Hudson Bay 
boundary 

Although it may be optional for the 
emigrant to settle on either shore of 
the Ottawa, and consequently in 



109 

either Upper or Lower Canada ; still 
as the seat of government for the 
Upper Province is at present York 
Town, upwards of 300 miles distant, 
if he settles on the Ottawa at all, he 
had better choose the eastern shore 
of that river. The great mass of the 
population are agriculturalists, but if 
the settler on the Ottawa, or in the 
other districts of Lower Canada, had 
to depend solely upon the growth of 
corn, the long winter of six months 
would be fatal to him. It would in- 
deed be extraordinary, if he could by 
his exertions in the summer, produce 
enough to support him in idleness, 
whilst the whole face of the country, 
lakes, and rivers, are covered with 
impenetrable ice, and snow, and vege- 
tation dormant. 

This however is not the case, for no 
sooner are the snows well hardened 



110 

by a few frosty nights, than the 
emigrant must set to work, heart, 
and hand, to clear away for the en- 
suing spring. The timber thus felled, 
will find a ready sale, either on his 
own ground, (provided it is on the 
borders of a stream), or Montreal, 
where he will likewise get a better 
price for his pot and pearl ash, than 
in the upper country. 

The very great importance of the 
latter articles of commerce, has in- 
duced me to add, in the appendix, 
instructions for their manufacture, 
and the emigrant will do well to turn 
his most serious attention to this 
source of profit, immediately he com- 
mences clearing away his land. If 
properly managed, the pot ash pro- 
duced by the lops and tops of trees, 
he is preparing for sale, and the 
underwood on the ground he is clear- 



ill 

mg immediately round his house, 
will repay him all the expenses in 
building it, ' 

Whiskey is likewise now becoming 
a profitable article of exportation, 
and the Upper Canadians are likely 
to succeed in raising tobacco, equal 
to the produce of Maryland and 
Virginia : indeed, in a country where 
Melons are brought to maturity in the 
open air, without the aid of super- 
ficial heat, there is no reason why it 
should not become a staple com- 
modity of the very first importance. 

All kinds of vegetables which 
thrive in Europe, may be produced in 
Canada ; but the great heat of the 
summer, and the cold in winter, re- 
quires more care and judgment in their 
cultivation. This is now more essen- 
tial than it was, previous to the rapid 
increase of the population, and the 



112 

consequent alteration in the face of 
the country ; at that time the winds 
were less variable, and fair and foul 
weather less intermixed. 

In Lower Canada the wind gene- 
rally throughout the summer, blows 
either from the eastward, or westward, 
and in almost all storms, the upper 
range of clouds are observed to be 
moved by a westerly wind. In the 
winter the easterly inclines more to 
the north-east, and the westerly to 
the north-west. 

This season of the year, instead of 
being passed in idleness, is in fact to 
the new comers, the one in which the 
greatest activity and industry is ex- 
erted. To the traveller the echoes of 
the woodman's axe resounding in 
every direction, strikes upon the ear, 
like a distant fire of musketry. 

But to those capable of looking be- 



113 

yond the short scene of their own 
existence, the falling crash of sur- 
rounding forests, and the rapid march 
of civilization, appearing as it does 
to outstretch the bounds of human 
possibility, will occasion a thousand 
extraordinary ideas connected with 
the future, to rush upon the mind, 
affording abundant matter for serious 
contemplation, and reflection. 

In a very few years, comparatively 
speaking, the whole extent of country 
from the Pacific, to the Atlantic 
Oceans, will become the great high- 
way of industry and commerce. 

When the river Columbia attracts 
the attention of wealthy American 
settlers, and they have permanently 
established themselves, it will become 
the Mississippi of that quarter of the 
vast American Continent. 

That government has quietly and 



114 

almost unobservably taken formal 
possession of the entrance, and have 
lately employed a detachment in 
establishing military posts in that 
direction. 

A more ready communication for 
the trade of the interior with India 
and China, will thus be opened, of 
which the Columbia will become the 
grand entrepot ; and to say that a city 
will be founded here, which will in a 
very few years rival New Orleans, is 
an assertion probably borne out by a 
mere reference to the map. Its situa- 
tion will there be seen, as well as the 
advantages which, to a trading colony, 
California, and the whole north-west 
coast of America presents. As a 
convenient reference, I shall merely 
add that the mouth of the Columbia 
river lies in latitude 46° 22' N. and 
longitude 123° 51' W. 



LETTER VII. 



" The land has peace, freedom, and liberty of conscience. 
And what would you more?" — Old Mortality. 



The honour of having discovered 
the country, now called Canada, is 
given to the Cabots j but Jacques 
Cartier, a celebrated French naviga- 
tor of the fifteenth century, first ex- 
plored the Gulph of St. Lawrence in 
1534, and carried off from Gasp6 two 
natives of the country round Quebec, 
who the following year served him as 



116 

interpreters. He arrived on the 8th 

September in his boats at the Indian 
village of Stadacone (where the city 
of Quebec now stands) searching for 
some place to lay up his vessels for 
the winter, and at last determined on 
the river St. Charles. Soon after his 
squadron, consisting of the Grand 
Hermione of 120 tons, the Petite 
Hermione of 60, and the Emerillon 
of 40, joined him from the lower end 
of the Island of Orleans, where he 
had left them. After laying up the 
two largest, he proceeded in the 
Emerillon towards Montreal, but left 
her at the upper end of Lake St. 
Peter, and reached Hockelaga (now 
Montreal) on the 2nd October. 

On the 11th he again arrived in 
the harbour of St. Croix, a name he 
had given the mouth of the river St. 
Charles in honour of the Saint, whose 



117 

anniversary is celebrated on the day 
his vessels arrived there. 

On the 3rd May, 1536, he seized 
on the two Indians whom he had 
taken with him the former year, and 
also the Indian Chief of Stadacon6, 
and on the 6th made sail for France, 
leaving one of his vessels dismantled 
in the St. Charles for want of hands, 
twenty-five of them having died 
during the winter of some unknown 
malady, and on the 10th July he 
arrived at St. Maloes. 

Four years afterwards a person of 
the name of Robertual was appointed 
governor of Canada, and settlers 
were sent out. Cartier was made 
captain -general of the vessels em- 
ployed on the expedition, but Ro- 
bertual fixed on Cape Breton for a 
settlement, where Cartier remained 
seventeen months, and then returned 



118 

to France with a ruined fortune, and 
died soon afterwards. 

In 1588, his nephews, Delaunay, 
Chaton, and Jacques Noel, obtained 
an exclusive privilege to trade to 
Canada for twelve years as an indem- 
nification for the losses their uncle 
had sustained; but this order was 
revoked a few months after it was 
granted. 

This brief outline of the Canadian 
account of the discovery of the coun- 
try, will, doubtless, excite a strong 
feeling of sympathy and commisera- 
tion for the misfortunes and fate of 
him who, after penetrating so far up 
the St. Lawrence in opposition to in- 
numerable difficulties, finally died of 
a broken heart, on beholding all 
those hopes and expectations he had 
so fondly cherished, withering in the 
gloom of inactivity, or blighted by 






119 

the chilling blasts of cold indifference. 
A river bearing his name falls into 
the St. Lawrence, about forty miles 
above Quebec, and to those travel- 
ling by land to Montreal, forms one 
of the most picturesque scenes of 
nature in Lower Canada. 

The hill from which it is first seen, 
is crowned with woods, whose 
variegated verdure, clothes the steep 
and rugged descent to the river, 
" deepening the murmur of the fall- 
ing floods," which rush with head- 
long impetuosity over a winding 
valley of rocks into the St. Lawrence. 

At a distance may be seen that 
great and noble river, rapidly mov- 
ing toward the ocean, bearing away 
upon its bosom the superabundant 
produce of the immense territory 
through which it has flowed On its 
banks the whitened cottages of the 



120 

Canadians, scattered at unequal dis- 
tances, complete a scene of rural 
beauty, and of wild and uncultivated 
nature; to which no description of 
mine can do adequate justice. 

When I first contemplated the ex- 
traordinary beauty of the prospect of 
which I have now but vainly endea- 
voured to convey a correct idea, I 
was not aware that an object of still 
greater admiration was soon to pre- 
sent itself* Do not, however, ima- 
gine that, like the novelist, I am about 
to introduce to your notice a fairy 
sylph, or a spirit of the waters ; or 
that, like the writer of a romance, I 
shall attempt to make some " dead 
men rise to push us from our stools." 

No ! it was an object of far greater 
interest than any old dry bones 
that ever made himself amenable to 
the White-boy act, by leaving his 



121 

home at unseasonable hours, in order 
to frighten honest men out of their 
senses. No, it was in fact, the 
prettiest girl in all Canada, who, at 
that time, lived in the neighbourhood, 
and whose agreeable naivete, aided 
by the scenery around her, had well 
nigh tempted me to strike my colours 
and lay up my weather-beaten hull 
in the Jacques Cartier river for the 
remainder of my days. 

My time however was not yet 
come, and although this blue- 
eyed maid of the village might even 
have rivalled Sir Walter's lady Helen, 
for — 

Ne'er did Grecian ehisei trace, 
A nymph, a naiad, or a grace 
Of finer form or lovelier face. 

still, as making love with sighing and 
dying was not exactly my forte, I 
escaped the greatest danger I had 

G 



122 

ever encountered of making a fool of 
myself. 

There is an excellent stone-bridge 
thrown over the river, for the pas- 
sage across which, a toll is required : 
but this is evaded by the country 
people during the summer, by a ford 
about half-a-mile lower down, and 
nearer the River St. Lawrence. 

The City of Quebec, the first per- 
manent settlement in Canada, was 
founded in 1608 by Samuel Cham- 
plain, a gentleman of birth and edu- 
cation, who accompanied De Montis 
in his expedition to Nova Scotia; and 
it soon became the centre of the 
French power in America. 

The settlers, however, do not ap- 
pear to have increased much in num- 
ber, for in 1626 they had only three 
establishments. This arose from its 
trade having been up to this time in 



123 

the hands of an exclusive company, 
whose chief object was to enrich 
themselves by the fur trade, instead 
of creating a national power in Ca- 
nada. Cardinal Richelieu, who at 
that time governed France, and whose 
ideas were more liberal than those of 
his age, as well as more magnificent 
than those of common ministers, 
chose to employ a more numerous 
association, composed of men of 
greater property and credit. 

To this company the government 
gave the disposal of all the settle- 
ments that were, or should be, formed 
in Canada ; together with the power 
of fortifying and governing them ; 
and of making peace or war, as should 
seem most conducive to their interest. 
The whole trade, both by sea and 
land, was secured to them for the 
term of fifteen years, except the cod 
g2 



124 

and whale fisheries, which were left 
open to all. The fur trade was se- 
cured to the company for ever. 

Further encouragements were add- 
ed to these. The king made the 
company a present of two large ships 
of war, manned with a crew of 700 
sailors; and he granted them the 
extraordinary privilege of conferring 
titles of honour; of creating dukes, 
marquisses, and earls or counts, with 
the royal letters of confirmation on 
the presentation of Cardinal Riche- 
lieu, grand master, head and superin- 
tendent of the commerce and navi- 
gation of France. Ecclesiastics, 
noblemen, and others, associating 
themselves in the company, might do 
it without derogation of their rank or 
character. Twelve of the members 
were created nobles, and all the na- 
tives of Canada were, to all intents 



125 

and purposes, to be reputed natives 
of Old France. 

The company were allowed the 
privilege of sending and exporting all 
kinds of merchandize, duty-free ; 
and every person who had exercised 
any trade in the Colony for the space 
of six years, was entitled to exercise 
the same in any town in the Mother 
Country. The last favour was of a 
very singular nature : — all goods ma- 
nufactured in Canada were permitted 
a free entry into France ; a privilege 
which gave the workmen a vast ad- 
vantage over those of the Mother 
Country, loaded with a variety of 
oppressive taxes. 

In return for so many advantages, 
the company, which had a capital of 
an hundred thousand crowns, engaged 
to carry over to the Colony, in 1628, 
the first year of their privilege, two or 



126 

three hundred artificers, of such trades 
as were most wanted; and 16,000 
persons of all conditions, before 
the year 1643. They were to lodge, 
maintain, and furnish them with all 
necessaries, for three years ; and then 
to make an equitable distribution 
among them, of the lands that should 
be cleared, according to their respec- 
tive wants; furnishing each family 
with a sufficient supply of grain to 
sow its allotments for the first year. 

But fortune did not second the en- 
deavours of government in favour of 
the new company to such a degree as 
to enable them to fulfil their engage- 
ments. The first ships which they 
fitted out were taken by the English, 
who had commenced hostilities against 
France, on account of the siege of Ro- 
■chelle.* 

* Russel's America. 






127 

They dispossessed the French of all 
their settlements in Canada, in 1629, 
but through the influence of Cham- 
plain, who pointed out their importance 
to the council of Lewis XIII., they 
were restored the following year by 
the treaty of St/ Germain. 

The colonists appear to have, been 
reduced to great privation and misery 
during the next two-and-thirty years, 
by the bad management of the affairs 
of the company, and a war with the 
Indians. In 1662 they made a vo- 
luntary surrender of all their privi- 
leges to'the king ; and from this moment 
the French settlements gradually im- 
proved in trade and population. 

In 1745 there were 83,000 French 
colonists, dispersed, or collected on 
the banks of the River St. Lawrence. 
About the head of the river, and what 
is called the Upper Country, there 



128 

were 8,000 more, who were rather 
engaged in trade and hunting — than 
agriculture.* 

Until 1759, Canada, like the other 
countries and colonies of the Old and 
New World, was subject alternately 
to peace and war, and their conse- 
quences, — good or evil. These, it is 
not necessary to particularize in a 
small tract intended for the informa- 
tion of the generality of emigrants. 
In 1760, therefore, the conquest of 
the whole of New France was com- 
pleted by the English ; and under the 
name of Canada, it has ever since 
remained annexed to the Crown of 
Great Britain. 

* RusseL 






LETTER VIII, 



** I remember," said my Uncle Toby, sighing again, " the 

story of the Ensign and his wife —and particularly well, 

that he, as well as she, upon some account or other, (I for- 
get what) was universally pitied by the whole regiment t 

———but finish the story thou art upon." 

Sterne. 



On the afternoon of a clear Octo- 
ber day, in the year 1813, after a 
heavy march of twenty-eight miles 
along the margin of the St. Law- 
rence, and passing the rivers St. 
Anne and Batiscan, — we halted at 
the small town of Trois-Rivieres. 

Our orders to await here the arri- 
val of the steam-vessel from Quebec, 
g3 



130 

afforded an opportunity for a careful 
inspection of the battalion ; —and as 
the war had now assumed a threaten- 
ing aspect in the Upper Province, 
and the Americans were moving in 
great force upon Montreal — the ap- 
pearance of 600 men, who had seen 
some service, excited extraordinary 
interest amongst all classes of the 
Canadians. 

It must not, however, be imagined, 
that in the groups of people who 
hailed our arrival as an interposition 
of Providence in their favour, — were 
those capable of bearing arms in de- 
ence of their country; — oh, no!— 
the old,— the feeble, — the women 
and children, were all that remained. 
i — The young men had nobly re- 
paired to their posts, — regardless of 
danger, and animated by those feel- 
ings which alone occupy the hearts 



. 



131 

of men when called upon to] defend 
all that is dear to them in life. To 
their assistance we were hastening, 
anxious to relieve a body of brave, 
but undisciplined volunteers, from the 
chance of being overwhelmed by the 
superior force of the enemy. 

Surrounded by their relatives and 
friends, we were the following morn- 
ing assembled in the Stockade Bar- 
rack, when my attention was rivetted 
by the appearance of a man, appa- 
rently ninety, — who, although his 
silvery locks bespoke extreme old 
age, — still carried himself bravely, 
and as would have well become one 
half a century younger. 

He was dressed in tartan plaid, 
and I observed him mark with the 
keenness of a soldier, the appearance, 
and every movement of the men.— 
His eyes, bright and animated, be- 



132 

spoke the enthusiasm of his soul ; 
and nothing more was necessary to 
convince me,— that in this remote 
spot,-— in the woods of North Ame- 
rica, so many hundred miles from his 
Highland home, — I had met with a 
" Hero of other days." 

Little did I imagine what after- 
wards proved to be the fact,- — that in 
the tall, venerable figure before me, 
I contemplated one of the few re- 
maining followers of Prince Charles 
Edward. 

A Scotchman, a gallant friend now 
no more, stopping with me close to 
his elbow y desired the drums to beat 
" the yellow-haired laddie,"— and in 
an instant we observed him struggling 
to suppress his emotions. 

Soldiers and sailors on foreign ser- 
vice are soon known to each other; 
useless ceremony is thrown aside, 






133 

and man meets man at once, — either 
as friend or foe, — with those senti- 
ments and feelings, which of necessity- 
are unknown in private life. These, 
therefore, produced from my compa- 
nion an observation in Gallic ; and 
the return was immediately — a hearty 
shake of the hand ; whilst the counte- 
nance of the veteran brightened into an 
expression of melancholy satisfaction. 
" Sir/' said I, " I am tempted to 
wish I was a Highlander myself, 
since you certainly appear to possess 
more genuine national feeling toward 
each other, than any other people 
under the sun." " It may be so," 
replied he, " I always meet a coun- 
tryman with pleasure, particularly^ a 
Highland soldier ; — but the delight I 
at this moment experience, proceeds 
from those well-known sounds, con- 
nected as they are with the recollec- 



134 

tion of my early days, — my favourite 
yellow-hair'd laddie : — to me your 
notes strike upon the ear, as the 
voice of a long-lost friend." 

He could say no more ; — for in 
spite of himself, the rising emotions 
of his heart choked his utterance ; 
and the manly tears which quickly 
came to his relief, and rapidly stole 
down his furrowed cheek, made me 
regret that I had incautiously touched 
that finer chord of sensibility which, 
—fixed upon the most acute sensa- 
tions of pain and pleasure, — vibrates 
upon the soul of man, — lifts him, as it 
were, above himself, — and calls into 
action the strongest and best feel- 
ings of our nature. 

We were now sufficiently known to 
each other to enter freely into con- 
versation ;— and as it afforded the old 
soldier an opportunity to 



135 

" Shoulder his crutch, and shew how fields 
were won," 

we soon learned the leading circum- 
stances of his life. 

Born in the Highlands of Scotland 
he had assembled with his Clan, un- 
der the banners of Prince Charles 
Edward, and followed him, " thro' 
weal and woe," until his final dis- 
comfiture, and disastrous retreat from 
the field of Culloden. 

With great difficulty he succeeded 
in making his escape to the Colonies, 
and after a variety of adventures, 
when General Wolfe commenced the 
siege of Louisburgh, he joined the 
English army as a volunteer, — here 
by the bursting of a shell he was 
severely wounded ; but soon reco- 
vering, he again joined the Brigade 
of Highlanders before Quebec. 

After the entire subjugation of Ca- 



136 

siada, he settled in the neighbour- 
hood of that city ;■ — and, finally, 
pitched his last tent, in his wearisome 
march through life, in the spot where 
we had now the gratification of see- 
ing him, in the winter of his days, — 
like an aged oak in the midst of the 
forest, — and surrounded by three or 
four generations — sprung up imper- 
ceptibly around him. 

After a long conversation on sub- 
jects deeply interesting to him — Scot- 
land — and the war — we parted, 
promising to call at his cottage the 
following morning. The reader will 
easily imagine that in this we were 
punctual, and that — we found every 
thing in the true style of " my Un- 
cle Toby." Indeed, the picture was 
finished to the life, by the actual ap- 
pearance of another Corporal Trim, 
who, with the precise soldier- like 



137 

step and attitude of his worthy pro- 
totype — handed round a horn of wel- 
come, with — " I was, your Honour, 
once a soldier myself; indeed, I was 
bred and born one, — for I was brought 
into the world in the English camp, 
before Louisburgh." 

Nothing more was now necessary 
to convince us, — that in reality we 
had found Captain Shandy, the 
friend and patron of poor Lefe- 
vre, — of all who needed support and 
assistance, — and his generous mes- 
senger of comfort to the distressed. 
With this enthusiastic idea, in the 
warmth of our feelings we again took 
each of them by the hand, and freely 
indulged in the delusion of the mo- 
ment. 

Whilst the venerable figure and 
manner of the old soldier every mo- 
ment inspired greater interest and 



138 

esteem, the Trim-like countenance 
and action of the Corporal provoked 
me to ask him several questions pri- 
vately, relative to his affair with 
Bridget; and whether his friends, 
Dr. Slop and Obadiah, were still in 
the land of the living. 

My Uncle Toby, however, drew 
our attention to his armoury; and I 
was obliged to defer the pleasure I 
was promising myself. 

Over the chimney were arranged, 
with great care, a Scotch claymore, 
—-a common English broad- sword,— 
a halbert, — a Highland dirk and shot- 
belt, — a brace of pistols, and a mus- 
ket and bayonet, — together with a 
variety of weapons of attack and de- 
fence, commonly used by the Ameri- 
can Indians. In the centre was 
painted on a fancifully-carved tablet, 
*' We are loaded, and ever ready for action : M 



139 

a motto well suited to the spirit of the 
garrison, and in an instant I added 
underneath : — 

** Small in number, but of war-proof valour." 

" There," said the veteran, with 
indescribable pain and pleasure in 
his voice and manner : — a there, you 
see the arms we carried in our youth ; 
but, alas ! I am now too old to fight, 
and too old to run away ; therefore, 
I am told I must remain at home :— 
but, should our home be attacked, 
then be assured we will again to 
arms, and do our duty, as we best 
can : and," rejoined the Corporal, " I 
am by your side whilst there's a drop 
of blood in my body." 

In the conversation and coun- 
tenance of the veteran, we read the 
history of an age, during which one 
or two generations of men had been 
swept from the face of the earth, 



140 

" time flew on rapid wing," and the 
distant appearance on the lake of 
the steam-vessel destined to convey 
us nearer the scene of action, was 
scarcely sufficient to remind us of the 
necessity for an immediate separation. 
His parting blessing was bestowed 
with that warmth and sincerity which 
stamps the remembrance of it more 
strongly upon my mind ; and his last 
admonition,— " Be brave, my chil- 
dren, and never fear death, " was a 
sentiment worthy of the man who had 
fought and conquered with the im- 
mortal Wolfe, and who, even at the 
verge of the grave, could feel like a 
hero. 



LETTER IX. 



How lustily your sons endure the hour 

Of wintry desolation; and how fair 

Your blooming daughters greet the op'ning dawn 

Of love-inspiring spring. 

Progress of Liberty 



The town of Trois Rivieres is 
situated near three branches of a river, 
which falling near this place into the 
St. Lawrence, gives it its name. 

This place was formerly the prin- 
cipal depot of the fur traders before 
Montreal had grown into its present 
magnitude and importance. — Here 
they carried on an extensive and ex- 



142 

ceedingly lucrative trade with the 
Indians, who descending in their ca- 
noes laden with furs, took back in 
exchange, brandy, rum, and gunpow- 
der, &c. &c. 

These advantages have, however, 
long since passed away, and the com- 
mercial inhabitants of Trois Rivieres 
now depend chiefly on the trade of 
the town and its vicinity for their 
support. — They have an iron foundry 
in the neighbourhood, where vast 
numbers of stoves are cast, these be- 
ing an essential article in Lower 
Canada during the winter.- — There 
are likewise two churches, and 
several convents, into one of which 
we attempted to penetrate, but the 
good Lady Abbess was inexorable; 
she might probably be apprehensive 
that the colour of scarlet was in reality 
what the blind-man had represented 



143 

it to be in his opinion, " Like the 
sound of a trumpet," which might, 
perhaps, have disturbed the religious 
exercises of its inmates. I must con- 
fess that I am too great a friend to 
freedom, and lover of nature, particu- 
larly in its fairest form, to admire this 
unsocial and unnatural practice of 
shutting up for life in the gloom of a 
cloister, and hiding as it were " un- 
der a bushel, " the most beautiful 
work of the Creator. 

The man who first invented such 
a system ought to have been tried 
by a court martial of Amazonians, 
and drummed out of existence. 

In the revolutionary war in 1776, 
the Americans formed a very daring, 
and not ill laid plan, for the surprize 
of the English forces at Three Rivers ; 
which had it been attended with all 
the success it was capable of, might 



144 

have been ranked amongst the most 
considerable military achievements 
of that nature. 

The British and Brunswick forces 
were at this time much separated. 
A strong detachment was stationed 
at Three Rivers, under the command 
of Brigadier General Frazer. Ano- 
ther, under Brigadier General Nesbit, 
lay near them on board the transports. 
A greater than either along with the 
Generals Carleton, Burgoyne, Phil- 
lips, and the German General, Rei- 
desal, were in several divisions by 
land and water on the way from 
Quebec. The distance from Soiel 
was about fifty miles, and several 
armed vessels full of troops, higher 
up than Three Rivers, lay full in the 
way. 

In the face of all these difficulties, 
a body of about 2,000 men, under a 



145 

Major General Thompson, embarked 
at Sorel in fifty boats, and coasting 
the south shore of Lake St. Peter, 
arrived at Nicolet, from whence they 
fell down the river by night, and 
passed to the other side, with the 
intention of surprizing the forces un- 
der General Frazer. 

Three Rivers was at that time a 
long village rather than a regular 
town, and the design was, that it 
should be attacked a little before 
day-break by a strong detachment at 
each end, whilst two other parties 
were to be drawu up in readiness to 
cover or support them. 

If this plan had succeeded, the 
destruction of all those vessels lying 
near the shore was meditated. 

The concurrent circumstances ne- 
cessary to give effect to this design 
were too numerous to afford any 

H 



146 

strong confidence of success. It was 
one of those bold undertakings which 
might have been productive of great 
advantage, but which was of too 
perilous a nature for any thing less 
than the most desperate situation of 
affairs to justify. 

They missed their time by about 
an hour, which, though they had 
passed the armed ships without ob- 
servation, occasioned their being dis- 
covered, and the alarm given at their 
landing. 

They afterwards got into bad 
ground, and were involved in other 
difficulties, which threw them into dis- 
order and confusion. In this state they 
found General Frazer's corps prepared 
to receive them, having landed several 
light six-pounders, which played upon 
them with great effect. Whilst thus 
engaged in front, General Nesbit 



147 

landed his brigade from the transports 
in their rear. 

Nothing was now left but a retreat, 
the accomplishment of which was 
more to be hoped than expected. 
Between Generals Nesbit and Frazer's 
corps they were driven for several 
miles through a swamp, which they 
traversed with inconceivable toil. 
The British troops at length grew 
tired of the pursuit, and the woods 
afforded them the wished for shelter. 
The first and second in command, 
with about 200 others, were taken 
prisoners. The loss of the British, as 
may be imagined, was but trifling. 

This was the last effort the Ameri- 
cans made of any importance in Ca- 
nada during the war. 

The steam vessels which navigate 
the St. Lawrence lay too for a short 
time at Trois Rivieres, to take m -a 
h 2 



148 

farther supply of fuel. A description 
of this mode of conveyance is unneces- 
sary, steam vessels having now be- 
come pretty generally known through- 
out Europe. Mr. Malsham, of Mon- 
treal was the first to establish them in 
British North America, and it is only 
a proper tribute of justice to acknow- 
ledge, that the tables provided, and 
the accommodations in all of them, 
are most excellent. 

The earlier in the summer the emi- 
grant reaches Montreal the better. 
To those who intend to rent or pur- 
chase a cleared farm, it is not of so 
much consequence, but to him who 
purposes taking up a grant of land, 
it is absolutely necessary that he 
should be at Montreal, if he intends 
to settle in the Lower Province, and 
at Kingston if in the Upper, by the 
middle of July. 



149 

He will then be able to obtain pos- 
session of his land, and build his log- 
house before the setting in of the 
winter. This period of the year in 
Lower Canada is from the 15th of 
November to the 15th of April. 
In the Upper Province agricultural 
labour may be prosecuted during se- 
ven months of the year. About a 
month from the renewal of vegeta- 
tion in both provinces, the apple- 
trees are in blossom, and the verdure 
of the wheat fields and meadows wave 
in the wind. All sorts of grain are 
sown in the spring, the wheat first, 
which generally ripens in four ino'ntlis 
from the time of its being put into 
the earth ; there is, however, another 
kind, a bearded wheat, which is fit 
for the sickle in three months, the 
time oats require. 

In the Upper Province wheat is like- 
wise sown in the fall as in this country. 



150 

I shall now attempt to give an idea 
of the geographical situation, laws, 
and government of the Lower Pro- 
vince, and for the observations I have 
to offer in this letter, I am principally 
indebted to a brief account of Canada, 
published annually in the Quebec 
Calender. 

The public institutions of Upper 
Canada being modelled agreeable to 
the British* will not require any par- 
ticular description. 

The name of Canada was originally 
applied by Europeans to all the land 
on the south western shores of the 
Gulph of St. Lawrence * and on both 
sides of that river from its mouth to 
some distance above Quebec. 

The River St. Lawrence itself was 
called "La Grande Riviere du Ca- 
nada," the name was afterwards ex^ 
tended to all countries explored by 
adventurers from the settlements 



151 

along the river. The whole "of the 
French possessions in North America 
were afterwards comprehended un- 
der the name of New France, 

Canada, as it is understood at the 
present day, is bounded to the east 
by the Gulph of St. Lawrence, and 
the country on the Labrador coast, 
annexed in 1 809 to the government of 
Newfoundland ; to the north, by the 
territories of the Hudson's Bay Com- 
pany; to the west, by undefined 
boundaries, but which may be sup- 
posed to extend (by virtue of occu- 
pation by the fur traders, and the 
discoveries of M'Kensie) to the 
Pacific Ocean. To the south it is 
bounded by unexplored countries, 
and by the United States of America, 
the Michigan territory, the State 
of Ohio, Pennsylvania, New York, 



152 

Vermont, New Hampshire, the dis- 
trict of Maine, and by the British 
Province of New Brunswick. 

The whole of this extent of country, 
as far as it was then explored, was 
from 1774 to 1791 under the govern- 
ment of the Province Quebec. In 
1791 it was divided into Upper and 
Lower Canada, by a line which 
strikes off near M'Ghie's Point in Lake 
St. Francis (or Point au Bodet,) which 
has been alluded to in Letter VIII. 

Lower Canada lies between the 
45th and 50th degrees of north lati- 
tude, and the 62d and 82 d degrees 
of west longitude, from Greenwich. 
The eastern half of this province is 
mountainous, and generally uncul- 
tivable. On the south shore of the 
St. Lawrence the mountains do not 
recede considerably from the river 



153 

until about sixty miles below Que- 
bec, they then run in a south wester- 
ly direction until they reach Lake 
Champlain. 

On the western side of this lake 
they extend north-westerly, in the 
direction of the Great Rapids of the 
St. Lawrence. They can hardly be said 
to leave the river until they reach 
Quebec, from whence they extend in 
a western and southern direction, and 
again appear in sight of the moun- 
tains on the south shore, toward the 
above rapids. 

The countries lying within these 
mountains (comprising an extent of 
above 200 miles from East to West, 
and 180 from North to South, at the 
broadest part) is level, with the ex- 
ception of the isolated mountains of 
Montreal, Beliel, and Chamblay. 

Nearly in the middle of this tract 
h 3 



184 

of land* flows the St. Lawrence* va- 
rying from a mile to upwards of 
twenty miles in width, navigable for 
vessels of 300 tons burden, 600 miles 
from the sea, 

On the north, the waters of the 
Ottawa* L'Achigan, the St, Maurice* 
the Batiscan, the St. Anne, and the 
Jacques Cartier, empty themselves 
into it ; and on the South, the Cham^- 
blay* the Yanaska, the St. Francis, 
the Nicolet, the Besancour, and the 
Chaudiere. 

All of these in Europe would be 
considered rivers of great magnitude* 
and the sources of all, excepting 
the Ottawa and Chamblay, lie consi- 
derably to the east of their embou- 
chures. They have generally high 
banks* along which the soil and 
growth of timber is inferior to that of 
the country farther back. All of them, 



155 

excepting where they are nearly on a 
level with the St. Lawrence, have a 
second bank at some distance from 
that which now contains their waters. 
The same thing is observable of the 
St. Lawrence. 

The waters of none of these rivers 
are clear, excepting the St. Law- 
rence itself, which, before its junc- 
tion with the Ottawa, is as transpa- 
rent as any in the world. 

The soil on both sides of the Saint 
Lawrence, in the western portion of 
the tract of country above described, 
is for the most part clayey, without 
stones, — excepting here and there 
globular masses of granite lying on 
the surface. 

Newly cleared it is invariably 
covered with a dark mould, produced 
by dissolved vegetable substances. 
As you approach the mountains the 



156 

soil is more light and loamy. These 
lands are the easiest cleared, and are 
at first very productive; toward 
Quebec the soil is poorer, frequently 
stony and shingley, and there are 
large tracts of sandy soil, covered 
with only a very slight coating of 
vegetable mould. 

The mountains generally consist of 
granite, though there are throughout 
the country extensive strata of lime, 
and not unfrequently stones having 
the appearance of volcanic eruption. 

The part of Lower Canada in cul- 
tivation, — consists of from one to ten 
leagues back on both banks of the St. 
Lawrence, and the rivers which fall 
into it. There are also settlements 
along the boundary of the United 
States, from the River Connecticut 
to St. Regis, the rest of the country 
to the very tops of the mountains is 



157 

covered with timber of a species and 
growth congenial to the soil. 

The landholders in the Lower Pro- 
vince are mostly Canadians, or of 
Canadian extraction, very few of 
them hold upon lease, but are the 
owners of the soil, subject only to a 
very small annual rent to the Seigneir 
or person holding immediately from 
the crown, and the fine of a twelfth 
on a change of proprietor by sale, or 
act equivalent to a sale, — one-fourth 
of which twelfth is usually deducted 
upon prompt payment. 

The other conditions are by no 
means burthensome according to the 
existing practice. They consist 
chiefly in having their corn ground at 
the Seignorial Mill, paying one- 
fourteenth for grinding — and in mak- 
ing and repairing the highways 
passing through their land, and assist- 



158 

ing in the bye-roads necessary for the 
use thereof. Lands held by Catholics 
are likewise subject to a tythe of a 
twenty- sixth part of all grain for the 
use of the curate, and to assessment 
for the building and repairs of churches 
and parsonage houses. 

There are no people on the face of 
the earth more strongly attached to 
their religion, laws, and customs 
than the Lower Canadians. During 
the late contest with the United 
States of America, their loyalty and 
attachment to the government and 
people of Great Britain, were exem- 
plified in athousand instances. Their 
conduct atChrystlers Chataguay, and 
La Cole Mill, sufficiently established 
their character for personal bravery 
and self-devotion to the cause for 
which they fought. 

The 104th regiment raised in New 



159 

Brunswick, the Nova Scotia, the Ca- 
nadian, and Glengary Fencibles, the 
Canadian Voltigeurs, and one or two 
other Corps raised in Lower Canada^ 
were of the greatest service during the 
war. — They proved themselves on 
every occasion worthy of their colours> 
and fully justified the opinion formed 
of their courage, and discipline. 

This character may likewise very 
justly be given to the Militia of the 
Upper Province, who suffered severely 
on the Niagara frontier, particularly 
in the affair of Lundy's-lane, in 1814, 
where a battalion of incorporated 
militia sustained the brunt of the 
action for a considerable time, in a 
style that would have done credit to 
regular troops. 

The commanding officer of the 
corps was a captain of the 8th regi- 
ment> who held a brevet rank, with 



1 60 

the local one of lieutenant-colonel 
whilst detached, — and I well remem- 
ber an anecdote told of him at the 
time, too good to pass unnoticed. 
This gallant son of the Emerald Isle 
having been severely wounded in the 
action,— made the following laconic 
report of his situation to the lieu- 
tenant-colonel who commanded the 
8 th. 

Dear , 



I was shot through the head ycster- 
diay morning, but they tell me I am 
doing very well, and I think so my- 
self. A plague on that villainous 
salt-petre, I think it will be the 
death of me at last. 

Your's, &c. 



The sovereign legislative authority 



161 

is in His Majesty and the two Houses 
of Parliament. This authority is 
again limited by the capitulations and 
its own acts, — the most remarkable 
of which is the Act 18 George III. 
chap, xii., confirmed by 31 George 
III. chap, xxxi., which declares that 
no taxes shall be imposed on the 
colonies but for the regulation of 
trade, and that the proceeds of such 
taxes shall be applied to and for the 
use of the province, in such manner 
as shall be directed by any law or 
laws which may be made by his 
majesty, his heirs, or successors, by 
and with the advice and consent of 
the legislative council and assembly 
of the province. 

The provincial legislature erected 
by the aforesaid Act of 31 George 
III. chap. xxxi. (1791), consists of 
his majesty acting by the governor 



162 

or person administering the govern- 
ment of Canada, — of a legislative 
council of not less than fifteen mem- 
bers, appointed by his majesty for 
life under some exceptions, — of a 
House of Assembly of not less than 
fifty members, elected for four years, 
by British subjects resident within 
the province, %nd possessed for their 
own use and benefit in the country of 
real property of the annual value of 
forty shillings sterling ; in the towns 
of the yearly value of five pounds, or 
paying rent to the amount of ten 
pounds. It is empowered to make 
laws for the " peace, welfare, and 
good government of the province," 
such laws not being repugnant with 
the above Act. 

The governor in his majesty's name 
assembles, prorogues and dissolves 
the two houses, but they must be 



MB 



163 

called together once in every twelve 
calendar months. All questions 
arising in the two houses are decided 
by a majority of the members pre- 
sent. The governor gives, withholds, 
or reserves for the farther signification 
of his majesty's pleasure—the royal 
sanction to all bills proposed by the 
two houses : — laws assented to by the 
governor may be disallowed by his 
majesty within two years. His 
majesty cannot assent to any Act or 
Acts affecting the employment of the 
dues of the clergy of the Church of 
Rome, or affecting the establishment 
of the Church of England within the 
province, — the provisions made for 
the same, or the real enjoyment, and 
exercise of any religious form or 
mode of worship. Neither in creating 
penalties, burthens, disabilities, or 
disqualifications on that account; 



164 

in granting or imposing any new 
duties in favour of any minister of 
any particular form of worship — or 
affecting the prerogative touching the 
granting of the waste lands of the 
crown—without such Acts having 
been thirty days before both houses 
of the British parliament, and nei- 
ther of the houses having addressed 
his majesty not to sanction the same. 
The laws in force are first the Acts 
of the British parliament which ex- 
tend to the colonies. — 2ndly. Capi- 
tulations and treaties; 3rdly. The 
laws and customs of Canada, founded 
principally on the customs of Paris, 
the edicts of the French kings, their 
colonial authorities and the Roman 
civil law ; 4thly. The criminal law of 
England as it stood in 1774, and as 
explained by subsequent explanatory 
statutes; 5thly. The ordinances of the 



< 



165 

governor and council established by 
the Act of that year ; and 6thly. By 
the Acts of the provincial legislature 
since 1793. 

These laws are executed in his 
majesty's name, and by virtue of 
his commission and instructions, 
by the governor — and his inferior 
officers, all of whom he appoints 
(with a few exceptions) during plea- 
sure. The governor likewise pos- 
sesses all those powers and preroga- 
tives, which his majesty may legally 
enjoy, and delegate to him. 

The Judiciary, consists of a chief 
justice of the province, and three 
puisne justices for the district of 
Quebec. A chief justice and three 
puisne justices for Montreal, a pro- 
vincial judge for Three Rivers, and 
one for Gaspee. The police is ad- 
ministered by the magistrates, &c. 



LETTER X. 



And soon a score of fires, I ween — 
From height, and hill, and cliff, were seen ; 
Each with warlike tidings fraught ; — 
Each from each, the signal caught ; — 
Each, after each, they glanc'd to sight : 
As stars arise upon the night. 

Lay of the Last Minstrel 



Montreal is an extensive, well- 
built city, situated on the north shore 
of the River St. Lawrence ;• — on an 
island of the same name, (about 
twelve leagues long, and four in 
width) which is exceedingly fertile, 
abounding in corn, fruits, romantic 
scenery, and handsome country-seats ; 



168 

aided by the mildness of the climate, 
when compared with Quebec, it is by 
far the most agreeable residence in all 
Canada. 

Every article of luxury or comfort 
that money can purchase, are to be 
obtained in Montreal. Fleets of 
ships, many of them upwards of 300 
tons burden, are here to be seen load- 
ing and unloading their cargoes at 
the distance of 600 miles from the sea. 
Respectable libraries, and other pub- 
lic institutions, — with a theatre, and 
indeed nothing appears to be want- 
ing that can either contribute to the 
wants or amusement of its inhabi- 
tants. These amount to more than 
25,000 Canadians and Americans, &c. 
They have two good markets, well 
supplied, at moderate prices. The 
hotels and boarding-houses are, in- 
deed, excellent; and in the latter, 



169 

the respectable traveller who pur- 
poses remaining a short time in Mon- 
treal, will find no difficulty in pro- 
curing good and comfortable quarters, 
at a moderate expense. 

Montreal may be considered as the 
grand entrepot to the Upper Pro- 
vince ; and the merchants here drive 
a most extraordinary and profitable 
trade, with the people of both pro- 
vinces, as well as with the different 
nations of Indians, in the North-west, 
and Western divisions of this exten- 
sive country. 

A more particular description of 
Montreal is unnecessary ; because the 
emigrant will, if he is prudent, not 
remain longer here, than is absolutely 
requisite to make his arrangements. 
In a great city, he will find his money 
fly like the wind, and his time will 
likewise be too valuable to be thrown 



170 

away; he will therefore do well to 
move on as soon as possible. 

Should he purpose taking up a 
g-rant of land in the Upper Province, 
on his arrival at Montreal, if he has 
much luggage, he had better probably, 
immediately engage a batteaux, (or 
flat-bottomed boat, suited to the na- 
vigation) to convey him to Kingston. 
It is totally impossible to say posi- 
tively, which arrangement will be the 
most prudent for prosecuting the 
voyage up the St. Lawrence, — whe- 
ther a batteaux, or a passage in the 
steam- vessels ; as it must depend 
entirely upon the number of his 
family, weight of baggage, and other 
circumstances,— of which he alone 
can form a correct opinion. 

To avoid leading any one into error, 
I shall merely give a general account 
of the route, noticing as we pass, the 



171 

several towns and villages on the 
right and left (N. & S.) shores of the 
St. Lawrence. 

From Montreal to Lower Lachine, 
the river is a continued rapid, over 
which no boats but the batteaux can 
pass with safety. These are forced 
along the edge of the current, by the 
main strength of the boatmen, who 
use long poles shod with iron, pro- 
vided for that purpose. Four or five 
hours will be occupied, in advancing 
to this place, although only nine miles 
from Montreal; but in coming down 
to that city with the current, half 
an hour would be more than sufficient 
to run that distance, without the aid 
of either oars or sail. 

The- canal, which is cutting from 

Montreal to Upper Lachine, wilL 

however, do away the necessity of 

passing these rapids, and conse- 

i 2 



172 

quently, materially facilitate the con- 
veyance of goods to the settlements 
on the Ottawa, and the Upper 
Province. There is a steam vessel 
now employed navigating the Ottawa, 
and Lake St. Louis, which will con- 
vey passengers and baggage to the 
foot of the Split Rock Rapids, about 
six miles below the village of Cedars. 
Lake St. Louis, although a small 
lake, when compared to others of 
North America, would in Europe, be 
considered a magnificent piece of 
water. The country around it is 
indeed beautifully picturesque, and 
the " green mountains of Vermont," 
although seventy miles distant, are 
here visible, towering to the clouds. 
When viewed from the northern 
shore of the lake, they may be 
compared to the Pyrenees, for 
variegated grandeur and sublimity. 



173 

The Indian village of Cocknawaga, 
lies immediately opposite Upper 
Lachine, and the glittering spire 
of the church of Point Clair, will 
be seen on the right ; the emigrant 
may here, if he pleases, call to his 
recollection "the Canadian boat 
song." 

a Ottawa tide, this trembling moon, 

"Shall see us float over thy waters soon," &c. 

The Canadians have an odd way of 
covering the spires of almost all their 
churches, in the Lower Province, 
with a sort of polished tin, which 
has a very pretty effect, and is visible 
for several miles, above the green 
foliage of the trees. 

The village of Cedars stands very 
pleasantly on the north shore of the 
river ; and I remember it with greater 
satisfaction, from having received the 



174 

most hospitable attention in 1813, 
from Colonel Murray* who at that 
time commanded the 5th battalion of 
militia. It was the same night that 
general Wilkinson passed Fort Wel- 
lington with the American army, 
and as the alarm guns were fired at 
the Coteau du Lac, and the beacon 
at that post was seen flaring through 
the moonlight, — 

" like a blood flag in the sky," 

the old women and children were 
nearly frightened into fits; but the 
militia under their venerable com- 
mander, (who had passed his youth in 
the regular army) pushed on at mid- 
night to the Coteau. 

After the departure of the garrison, 
the uproar increased ; alarming re- 
ports were spread ; and it appeared 
as if the place was on the point of 



175 

attack, by the ghosts of these 5,000 
invincible Yankees, who were in 
reality fifty miles distant. So com- 
pletely had that wild eyed monster, 
fear, taken by the nose every soul in 
the village, and so strenuously did 
this infernal demon, pull away at the 
common 'larum bell of their senses, 
that, to them, the thought of sleep, 
conveyed an idea little short of 
instant death, and a speedy prepara- 
tion for the next world, was the order 
of the day. 

The Coteau du Lac, is eleven miles 
farther on ; this was a military post 
of considerale importance, during the 
war. The 2nd battalion, R.M. formed 
part of its garrison in the winter of 
1813, with the 103rd regiment, who 
were the following year unfortunately 
blown up, in the disastrous attack 



176 

upon Fort Erie. The whole effective 
strength of the regiment, about 600 
men, went into action that night, 
under their gallant commanders, 
Colonels Scott and Drummond, who, 
together with almost every officer 
and man, a few minutes afterwards, 
fell victims to an unforeseen, and 
unaccountable explosion. 

The same night, captain Alexander 
Dobbs, R.N. C.B., who was co- 
operating with a party of seamen, 
and marines, was knocked backwards 
whilst gallantly advancing to plant 
the scaling ladders, by a cannon shot, 
which having several times bounded 
from the earth, struck him directly 
on the forehead. He was carried from 
the field senseless, but, however 
much he feels the effects of it, I am 
happy to say, he still lives, and is 



177 

ready and willing to shew as bold a 
front as ever, to the enemies of his 
country. 

Whilst on the subject of narrow 
escapes, I may perhaps be permitted 
to record another, which occurred 
under my own immediate observation. 

In the attack upon Norfolk, in 
Virginia, it became necessary for the 
second battalion to change its position, 
by a retrograde movement. I beg 
the reader will not think that the 
marines are in the habit of retreating ; 
excepting out of this world, into 
another : their character in this re- 
spect, is, I ljK)pe, pretty well under- 
stood, I shall therefore proceed. 

In this movement, a cannon shot 
from the water battery, on Crany 
Island, struck the ground close be- 
hind Captain Steele, RM., rose 
again, and passed directly between 
i 3 



118 

his thighs, knocked him down,— 
dead, it was supposed; but although 
he was likewise severely wounded ; 
he also, I am happy to say, lived to tell 
the story, and is now barrack master 
of the royal marine artillery. 

To be serious, however, this is 
queer work after all, for tenpence a 
day, and your rations. 

A mile and a half in advance, of 
Coteau du Lac, is Point M'Donald, 
which derives its name like a great 
many other places in Canada, from 
the proprietor. This is the head of 
the Cedar, and Coteau du Lac 
rapids, which the emigrant will find 
the worst part of the navigation 
between Montreal and the Upper 
Province. 

It will take him, even with a 
fair wind across Lake St. Louis, 
three days to get his batteaux to 



179 

McDonald's, forty-six miles from Mon- 
treal ; should he be a steam vessel pas- 
senger, he will have to cart his baggage 
from the Cedar's to McDonald's Point, 
where he can convey it across Lake 
St. Francis, as far as Cornwall. 

During the late war, a strong party 
of seamen, for the service of the 
lakes, halted at the Coteau du Lac, 
in their way up the country. They 
had been previously supplied with a 
complete fighting apparatus, and with 
ammunition in abundance, but a 
haversack to hold their "prog" as 
the nautical term is, and a canteen for 
the "liquor of life" was omitted, 
amongst the other articles of equip- 
ment. 

The next morning, the blue petre 
was hoisted, as a signal for getting 
under way, and "toe a line," the 
word of command, was as promptly 



180 

obeyed, as might be expected under 
all the circumstances. It is true they 
complained loudly of the cursed 
straps across their shoulders, a mus- 
ket and bayonet, with forty round 8 
of ball cartridge, being no joke, and 
that such infernal trumpery, was only 
fit for a soldier, and a disgrace to a 
blue jacket. " Give me a cutlass, v 
cried one, "give me a boarding pike," 
roared another, and "give me my 
grog," vociferated a third ; however, 
iC toe a. line," being again whispered in 
their ears, by the soft murmur of the 
boatswain's mate, order was restored 
to the Blues, and they amused them- 
selves in silence for a few moments, 
drawing up in their own minds, a de- 
claration of war against every un- 
fortunate pig between the Coteau du 
Lac and the falls of Niagara. 

Four days' rations of rum, soft 



181 

bread, and beef, were now distributed 
from the commissariat store, but this 
only produced a new difficulty. 

The rum it is true, could have been 
easily stowed away, but the beef and 
bread, — what was to be done with 
that? There was no sea chest, no 
canvass bag, no haversack ; one tried 
the top of his hat, another his P. 
jacket, and another, more ingenious 
than the rest, was for slinging it over 
his shoulders, in the seat of his old 
trousers. Now this appeared to be 
an excellent idea, but — ■ 

" Hope told a flattering tale," 

for behold, one of them had accident- 
ally found a still better plan, and was 
seen hoisting his in the air, upon his 
fixed bayonet. The thought — 

" flew like lightning 'long the line," 

and was acted upon immediately by 
all hands. 



im 

The cry of " shove off 5 ' " shove 
off" now became universal, and was 
at length complied with, by the com- 
manding officer ; 

" Oh ! it was a goodly sight to see," 

when they extended themselves, after 
the manner of naval tactics, for at 
least three-quarters of a mile, all 
along the margin of the bay, and a 
party of Indians encamp'd a short 
distance from the Fort, staring with 
astonishment, shook their heads, and 
very wisely concluded, that if the 
war was to be carried on in that 
manner, it would very soon be all up 
with the Yankees, 



LETTER XI. 



" That is all which is worth caring for, which distin- 
guishes the duath of the brave from the ignoble. "j 

Old Mortality. 



Point au Bodet, nine miles from 
M' Donald's, is generally the first 
stage for the Canadian boatmen, but 
should they have a fair wind across 
Lake St. Francis, they invariably 
make the best of it, and push on as 
far as the River Raisin, Camerons, 
or even to Cornwall, a distance of 
thirty- seven miles from the Coteau. 

A small party was stationed at 



184 

M'Ghie's Point, (Point au Bodet) 
whilst general Wilkinson's army lay 
in the Salmon River, and three gun- 
boats were kept constantly cruising 
on the Lake, until the winter, as a pre- 
cautionary measure against Fort Co- 
teau being surprised by the Americans. 

Glengary, the first settlement after 
passing the boundary of the Upper 
Province, is a sufficient specimen of 
what may be effected by industry and 
perseverance. The majority of the 
people in Glengary speak Gallic. A 
French Canadian, or an Englishman, 
will here find as much difficulty in 
making himself understood, as he 
would in Otaheite, or any other out- 
of-the-way part of the world. 

Here are the Donald M'Donalds, 
the M'Kenzies, the M'Niels, the 
M'Dougals, the M'Kinnons, and the 
M'Phersons, the Scots, the Frazers, 



185 

and the Camerons — indeed I am half 
inclined to think that there is not a 
braw hinny, " that ever wore bottom- 
less breeks," who could not in this 
said district of Glengary — if he was 
disposed to take a stretch across — 
find either his cousin or his namesake. 
A Highland friend of mine, whilst 
quartered at Cornwall, discovered in 
one old woman, the person who had 
nursed him in his infancy. It was a 
droll scene enough, for the " gude 
wife n had no sooner clearly ascertain- 
ed that her foster bairn was actually 
before her, than making a most affec- 
tionate spring, she caught him round 
the neck, and half smothered him 
with caresses and imperial mackaba. 
He had on one or two occasions after- 
wards, a very narrow escape of being 
brought to close quarters in a similar 
manner, in spite of the sharp look out 



186 

kept by him upon the old lady's move* 
ments. 

The entrance of the River Raisin is 
in a deep bay on the Canadian shore. 
The block-house at the entrance will 
be seen when about three miles above 
M'Ghie's; and the passage from hence 
to Cornwall will afford ample matter 
for pleasure and observation. 

After passing Cameron's, the Indian 
village of St. Regis, on the south 
shore, becomes an object of much in- 
terest. Here the boundary falls into 
the St. Lawrence, and from this point 
upwards, runs in the centre of that 
river, and through the lakes. 

As this line had never been cor- 
rectly described, commissioners were 
appointed by both powers at the ces- 
sation of hostilities for that purpose ; 
and the British executive have spared 
no expense or exertion for effecting 



187 

this desirable object, and a perfect 
survey of the Upper Lakes. This is 
absolutely necessary, because in these 
immense inland seas, tremendous 
gales blow with incredible violence, 
and the numerous shoals and small 
islands, scattered in every direction, 
make the navigation sometimes both 
difficult and dangerous. In several 
parts of Lake Ontario there are no 
soundings, but by the great efforts 
made to keep the ascendancy upon it 
during the late war, this lake is better 
known than either of the others. 

St. Regis was occupied by the 
American army during the winter of 
1813. General Wilkinson, after the 
defeat of his rear division at Christ- 
ler's farm, having crossed his army at 
Cornwall, and given up all hopes of 
reaching the Lower Provinces by the 
River St. Lawrence. 






188 

Excepting the innkeeper, and Mon- 
sieur Joseph Marcoux, the Catholic 
missionary, the inhabitants of this 
village are all Indians, or of Indian 
extraction. The church and houses 
are commodious and well built, and 
the priest appears to have adopted 
every means in his power to civilize 
the people, but whether they are 
more happy in consequence, is a ques- 
tion not so easily ascertained. The 
St. Regis Indians have advanced far- 
ther in civilization, than any other tribe 
in this part of North America; but 
generally speaking, those who have 
had much intercourse with their neigh- 
bours verify the old and true proverb 
— "Evil communications corrupt good 
manners" — which may be well ap- 
plied in this instance. 

Instead of becoming better, many 
of them exchange, for their native 



189 

hardihood, simplicity and bravery — 
indolence, pusillanimity, and all the 
vicious inclinations and habits of the 
Europeans — very few of them imbib- 
ing any of their virtues. 

The Indians of the six nations, in 
the neighbourhood of Lake Huron, 
and Michilimacinac, are however a 
very different race of men, and the 
name of Tecumseth will be held in 
veneration as long as Canada exists. 

Of all the chiefs attached to the 
British army during the late war, none 
could equal Tecumseth. He stood 
pre-eminent, and it is the opinion of 
many who knew his character, that 
he had a head and a heart capable 
of planning and executing the boldest 
actions imaginable. He fell mortally 
wounded in a skirmish with a party 
of American riflemen, in October, 
1813, when his services in the field, 



190 

and his powerful influence over a 
strong body of Indian warriors, were 
of the greatest importance in the 
defence of Upper Canada, 

The Indian chief Norton, likewise, 
rendered very valuable assistance to 
the British cause in Canada. After 
the cessation of hostilities he came 
with his wife and family to England, 
— was introduced to His present Ma- 
jesty, who conferred upon him the 
local rank of Major in the English 
army. After a short stay, however, 
in this country, he returned to Cana- 
da, and now passes his life in retire- 
ment, near York— his literary ac- 
quirements affording him the princi- 
pal source of amusement. 

Mrs. Norton has considerable per- 
sonal attractions, and possesses a 
mind and manner, that would do 
credit to a more exalted station. 



191 

Sackanaigh (alias Black Bird) is 
another chief who made himself con- 
spicuous during the late war. He is a 
nephew of Tecumseth's, and appears 
to inherit a great deal of the bravery 
and warlike genius of his gallant rela- 
tive. 

When Capt. Miller Worsley, R.N. 
in September, 1814, arrived at Michi- 
limacinac, on Lake Huron, with a 
few seamen in boats and canoes, from 
the Nottawasaga River, where he had 
been obliged by the superior force of 
the Americans to destroy H. M. S. 
Nancy, he found the port blockaded 
by Commodore Sinclair with two 
heavy schooners. 

With that spirit of enterprize so ab- 
solutely necessary in carrying on the 
war upon the lakes, he immediately 
determined upon attacking them with 
the crew of the Nancy, and a party 



192 

of the Newfoundland Regiment, un- 
der Lieut. Bulger of that corps, who 
were placed under his directions by 
Colonel M'Dowal, the Commandant. 

In this affair Sackanaigh, the Indian 
chief, accompanied Capt. Worsley as 
a volunteer, and evinced great gal- 
lantry. 

When closing in upon the vessel 
under her fire, Sackanaigh was ob- 
served with his tobacco pouch, and 
with an apparent devotional feeling, 
spreading a small portion of the con- 
tents upon the lake, and to pour over 
the boat's side a quantity of rum. 
Whether this was intended to invoke 
the " Spirits of the Waters," I know 
not, neither is it of any consequence, 
for it was evident that the spirit was 
a good one, under whose influence he 
acted. After returning his rum bottle 
to its station, " Now," said he, " we 



193 

shall take her;" and, with the deter- 
mination that it should be so, he was 
immediately afterwards one of the first 
to leap on board the enemy. 

By reference to the Gazette it will 
be seen, that the action was crowned 
with the success it deserved — that 
Capt. Worsley, like Capt. Barclay 
and his crews on Lake Erie, with 
British seamen, " behaved like British 
seamen ;" and that the conduct of the 
officers and men of the Newfoundland, 
commanded equal praise and admira- 
tion. 



LETTER XII. 



• u The current turns 



Beneath them, from its onward course; 
Some mightj, unseen barrier spurns 
The vex'd tide, all foaming back ; 
And scarce the oars, redoubled force 
Can stem the eddies whirling force." 



Laila Rookh, 



As the emigrant to Upper Canada 
may perhaps feel inclined to become 
a naturalized Indian, should a proper 
opportunity occur, I shall give a 
short account of the ceremony of 
initiation, as performed during the 
war. 

k2 



196 

Each person who intended pro- 
posing himself to the Indians, pro- 
vided a trifling present, a gun being 
the most valued ; but above all things 
a bottle of rum. 

With these he repaired to the spot 
where the Indians were encamped, 
and having told them the object of 
his visit, by means of an interpreter, 
a consultation was held by the chiefs, 
and principal warriors. This ques- 
tion however was soon settled, after 
drawing the cork of the rum bottle, 
that liquor having a very powerful 
influence in all their deliberations. 

An oration was now delivered by 
one of the chiefs, generally expres- 
sive of their wishes, that their adopted 
brother should lead the life of an 
Indian warrior, and concluded with 
observations similar to these : " That 
as the Great Spirit has for some wise 



197 

purpose sent you across the wide 
lake to become an Indian, we hope 
that you will raise the hatchet of war 
with us against our enemies, and that 
you will teach us to revenge on them, 
the injuries we have sustained, &c." 
The name was then given to each, 
the presents offered in return, and 
the war dance commenced. 

During this part of the ceremony, 
the whole party made one of the 
most hideous yells imaginable, called 
the war whoop, and instructed the 
newly initiated in the use of the 
tomahawk, &c. &c. At length the 
repeated pledges between this august 
family, drained to the very dregs the 
unfortunate bottle, which, now no 
longer affording them either pleasure 
or profit, (like a minister who has 
lost all influence) was kicked from 



mii 



198 

one side to the other, regardless of 
all former favour and affection. 

The Canadian Indians are never 
known to molest the settlers in any 
way ; indeed, excepting in the coun- 
try above Lake Ontario, very few 
are to be seen, and those perfectly 
inoffensive. Unlike the Caffres at 
the Cape of Good Hope, and the 
aborigines of New South Wales and 
Van Diemen's Land, there is no- 
thing disgusting, or even disagreeable 
in their appearance, and many of the 
women are exceedingly pretty. 

The men have been represented as 
most outrageously jealous, but I do 
not believe that they are more so 
than any other people. It is how- 
ever a melancholy fact, one that will 
scarcely bear reflecting upon, and 
" one that will melt even lawyers to 



199 

pity," that the American Indian has 
no more idea of a Lord Chancellor, 
than he has of the chief officer of the 
Inquisition ; and knows no more 
of a suit in Chancery, than he does 
of the North-west passage. 

Poor devil, he does not even know 
the meaning of crim. con.; totally 
senseless to all the charms of briefs, 
and refreshers; he actually lives, 
moves, and has his being, without 
the assistance of " letters and mes- 
sengers," or even one solitary six-and- 
eightpenny, to inform him that black 
is not white, and vice versa. 

Now where people thus destitute, 
are left to follow their own ideas of 
right and wrong, it is not to be won- 
dered at, that they should act 
promptly upon the impulse of the 
moment. I would therefore most 
strongly and seriously advise the 
emigrant to Upper Canada, to con- 



200 

stantly bear in mind the tenth com- 
mandment. If he does not, his blood 
be upon his own head, for he will be 
scalped to a certainty. He may rest 
fully assured that the only law offices 
of the crown, introduced to his 
notice, will be a scalping knife and a 
rifle gun ; and the only brief, a round 
piece of lead, which will find its way 
through his Court of King's Bench 
in as short a time, as a suit in charge 
of one of those — who are — all — all — 
honourable men! ! ! God forgive me 
****** 

But I have compared one of those 
pillars of the state, a lawyer, to a 
scalping knife ; now I must beg one 
moment to explain, or I may bring 
down to the charge such a host of 
bashaws with one, two, and three 
tails, as will not be very easy for me 
to withstand. How shall I begin? 
Why indeed should I attempt it? 



201 

The honourable and respectable mem- 
bers of the profession, will rest fully 
assured, that this comparison can in 
no possible way apply to them ; but 
the worthless and the valueless, those 
who persuade the poor man still 
farther to impoverish himself, by ad- 
vising him to pursue, what they know 
to be merely a vain shadow, those 
who pervert the truth, and under the 
protection of their official situations, 
their gowns, and their big wigs, 
insult misfortune, and hold up to 
the ridicule and contempt, of a 
pitiless world — men far better than 
themselves. If any such should read 
these observations, and think the cap 
fits — they are welcome to take it, and 
wear it, and to enjoy it, until they are 
called upon in due time to receive that 
reward, which,, from the nature of 
their services, they so richly deserve. 
k 3 



202 

In war, the American Indians sup- 
ply the place of light cavalry, in ha- 
rassing a retreating enemy ; but their 
war cry, or war whoop, as it is gene- 
rally called, is only heard in perfec- 
tion by those, who, in the dead of the 
night, fall into an ambuscade, and 
these worthies are closing in upon 
the party pell mell. Steadiness, 
however, is all that is necessary, as 
from want of discipline they have 
then no chance of success. A volley 
or two, well and closely applied, will 
be found amply sufficient to make them 
take to their heels, and " the devil 
take the hindmost,'' will very soon 
afterwards be the only word of com- 
mand for the runaways. 

" Waybadan payshik shemagonish 
kitchie Manneetoo, nee wee waybenan 
nee yoe, Matchee Manneetoo," is 
part of the dead war song of one of 



=^_. 



203 

the tribes, and for music, it is only 
necessary to make the most horrible 
noise the human voice is capable of 
producing, and the original air is hit 
to a nicety. 

We will now move on to Cornwall, 
a respectable town on the Canadian 
shore of the St. Lawrence. This 
may be considered the foot of the 
great rapids of Upper Canada, and 
consequently will become in a few 
years a place of considerable wealth 
and importance. The inhabitants 
indeed, deserve every good that can 
befal them, and my memory must fail 
me in all things, when I forget their 
kindness and hospitality. The Mac 
Leans, the Andersons, the Frenchs, 
and the Woods, in fact almost every 
individual inhabitant, appeared to vie 
with each other, in their generous 



204 

efforts to contribute to our comfort 
and accommodation. 

Although Cornwall is at present 
only in its infancy, the town is nearly 
a mite in length, and the church 
which stands about the centre, is neat 
and respectable. There are several 
excellent houses in the place, and the 
neighbourhood is improving in a 
most extraordinary manner, hundreds 
of emigrants having settled near it, 
in what are called the back conces- 
sions. 

If the emigrant should by any 
chance, remain a short time at Corn- 
wall, he will be much gratified by a 
walk upon the line of road leading to 
these settlements. He will be not a 
little astonished at the extraordinary 
prospect on all sides of him, and may 
probably see his interest in establish- 



.. W - f- . , , ■ 1 rf.n - 



205 

ing himself here, instead of prose- 
cuting his journey farther up the 
country. The greater part of the 
settlers are Scotch, but a few English 
and German are intermixed. 

Mr. M'Donald, the catholic priest, 
appears to have greater influence 
over them than any other person. 
He took the field with the Glen- 
gary men in 1813, and fully proved, 
that as well as teaching them how 
to deserve their homes, he could 
likewise set them an example how to 
defend them. 

From McDonald's Point to Corn- 
wall, (thirty-six miles) the navigation 
is uninterrupted by rapids, and a 
regular daily communication with 
Montreal, is constantly kept up by a 
mail-coach, which passes through 
Cornwall in its way up and down the 
country. 






206 

The next village is Mill-rush, on 
the north shore, five miles farther in 
advance, where there is a small rapid ; 
indeed the St. Lawrence, from Corn- 
wall upwards to the head of the Long 
Sault rapids, is a continuance of 
difficult navigation, of which it is 
scarcely possible to convey an idea. 
Although the Long Sault, the Coteau 
du Lac, the Cedars, the Cascades (or 
Split Rock) and the Montreal rapids, 
are great obstacles in the passage up 
the St. Lawrence : they afford a most 
extraordinary display of romantic 
scenery. 

In passing down the river, the roar 
of the rapids being heard at a great 
distance, appears to the passenger 
who has never before gone through 
them, as if the batteaux was hurrying 
toward some fall of water equal to 
Niagara. When they become visible, 



207 

the velocity of the current soon car- 
ries him into the midst of them. 

It would be no specimen of cowar- 
dice in any man, if he then felt more 
than a common sense of danger, as 
should the boat broach too, or fall 
with her broadside to the current, 
nothing can save her from being 
swamped, and her passengers from a 
watery grave. To prevent such an 
accident, on approaching the rapids, 
the sail is lowered, and the boatmen 
rest on their oars ready to pull, right 
or left, as occasion may require. 

In this manner, whilst surrounded 
by a thousand whirlpools and dan- 
gerous rocks, the batteaux is hurled 
forward by the mere force of the cur- 
rent, at the rate of fifteen miles an 
hour. In fact, you may be said to 
ride full gallop over danger, which 



208 

even to look at from the shore, appears 
more than commonly appalling. 

The Cascade, or Split Rock Rapid, 
is the most dangerous; and here in 
1815, a few of us had well nigh taken 
our departure for " that bourne from 
whence no traveller returns." There 
is an old proverb, which might per- 
haps be one way of accounting for the 
escape of some of the party, but I 
hate proverbs that take up the subject 
so quaintly, and shall therefore pass 
on to describe how the service had 
like to have been deprived of one 
lieutenant, three Serjeants, one drum, 
and sixteen full privates, of his ma- 
jesty's royal marine forces. 

We had passed all the rapids above, 
with perfect safety ; but on approach- 
ing the Split Rock, where the river 
rushes with frightful velocity round a 
point of land, and forces itself into a 



209 

narrow channel ; our pilot appeared to 
have either lost all confidence in him- 
self, or to have taken too strong a pull 
at the Commissary. 

The batteaux was flying like lights 
ning, in the direction of an immense 
vortex, caused by the recoil of the rush 
of the river — large enough to swallow 
a-line-of-battle ship. 

The pilot fancied he had time to 
make the passage on the right, but 
finding this scarcely possible, he en- 
deavoured to regain the channel on 
the left. 

Seeing what this manoeuvre would 
end in, and that I should never live to 
tell the tale, I look'd through the sky- 
light of his mind, and clearly saw that 
he gave himself up for lost, and was 
calling upon all his red letter friends 
in the almanack for assistance. 

Now, I should have venerated him 



210 

for this on any other occasion, but in 
the present instance it had quite a 
different effect ! — it was like a starving 
man, instead of taking the trouble to 
catch the fish, waiting in the hope of 
seeing them jump out of the river, 
ready fried. 

In fact, I saw clearly that it was 
necessary " to be up and be doing," 
instead of looking for a miracle to 
deliver us ; and consequently ordered 
one of the Serjeants, a native of Lom- 
bardy, and a very brave and powerful 
man, to put the pilot out of the way, 
seize the oar, and assist in navigating 
the batteaux. The laying Jean 
Jacques along quietly at the bottom 
of the boat, was to him but the 
operation of a moment, and another, 
brought us close in with the enemy. 

" Je suis perdue," cried the Cana- 



211 

dian in an agony of fear ; " Je suis 
perdue ;"* but it was no such thing, 
for we contrived to take the shock 
upon the quarter of the batteaux, and 
in two minutes — after a momentary 
glance to the bottom of the infernal 
gulph, and although the boat had 
half filled with water, and the oars, 
knapsacks, &c. were washed over- 
board — all hands jumped on shore, 
safe and sound, at the foot of the 
rapid. 

* I am lost— I am lost. 



LETTER XIII 



" Eh ! Sirs ! ye're sair alter'd hinny, your face is turn'd 
pale, and your een are sunken, — and your bonny red and 
white cheeks are turn'd a' dark and sun-barn'd. 

" O weary on the wars !— many's the comely face they 
destroy." 

Old Mortality. 



From the head of the Long Sault 
rapids, there are but one or two tri- 
vial obstacles in the passage of the 
river, all the way to Kingston. The 
first stage by land is Ault's Inn, 
fifteen miles from Cornwall; or 
Haine's Inn, a few miles farther on, 
both of them affording very good 
accommodation. 



214 

A short distance in advance is 
Matilda. In this settlement there are 
a great many of Colonel Sir W. 
Johnson's corps, who took up arms 
for the mother country in the revolu- 
tionary war with America, and were 
afterwards given lands on the north 
shore of the St. Lawrence, from Glen- 
gary to Prescot. 

The margin of the river upon which 
they were thus distributed, is now 
almost entirely cleared, and the in- 
tervals between each family are ra- 
pidly filling up by their numerous 
offspring. This is by far the most 
interesting settlement in British 
North America, if we properly asso- 
ciate the misfortunes, the adventures, 
and the characters of those who com- 
pose it. Captains Anderson, French, 
Robinson, M'Donald, M'Clean, and 
the two Frazers, are still living, and 



215 

never omit an opportunity of paying 
every hospitable attention to strangers. 
The emigrant will, on his arrival 
here, be about 120 miles from Mon- 
treal, and 300 from Quebec. Au- 
gusta, Johnstown, Brockville, and 
Gananoqua on the Canadian, with 
Osnaburg and Hamilton on the Ame- 
rican shore, are the only villages or 
towns visible from the St. Lawrence, 
until the emigrant reaches Kingston, 
eighty-five miles farther, on Lake 
Ontario. 

He will find tolerable accommoda- 
tion at all these places, should he 
travel by land ; but the passage by 
water will be found much more agree- 
able from the head of the rapids. 

The Canadian boatmen, five of 
whom generally constitute the crew 
of a batteaux, are guided entirely by 
the wind, as to the distance they go 



216 

each day, it being perfectly immate* 
rial to them where they lay too for 
the night. After cooking their sup- 
pers they sleep in their boats, and a 
common tent will therefore be found 
of the greatest service to the emi- 
grant in his passage up the river. 
One good enough for the purpose 
may be purchased in this country 
for £2., and will afterwards be found 
of twice that value, either to be cut 
up into boat sails, or to transmogrify 
into an elegant real, mock Turkey 
carpet, for his very best drawing 
room. 

Great numbers of emigrants have, 
within the last ten years, settled in 
the concessions (as the New Town- 
ships are called), at the back of 
Johnstown, Preseot, and Brockville. 

The latter place was named in re- 
membrance of General Brock, who 



217 

fell on the 18th Oct., 1812, whilst 
gallantly leading on his men to the 
charge, in the battle of Queenstown. 
He was buried at Fort George, and 
as a proof how much he was beloved 
in Canada, and how sincerely his loss 
was felt by the people, and how 
anxious they are to perpetuate his 
memory, it is only necessary to re- 
mark, that Brock is now a christian 
name common amongst them for their 
children. 

Fort Wellington, in the village of 
Prescot, lies immediately opposite 
Osnaburg. The former was a post 
of considerable importance during 
the war, the river being here not 
more than three quarters of a mile 
broad, and frozen over during the 
winter, ten minutes is sufficient for an 
invading army to cross the frontier. 

In 1812, Lieut. Colonel M'Donald, 



218 

the Commandant, was in the constant 
practice of exercising the garrison 
upon the ice, between Fort Welling- 
ton and the Osnaburg batteries. His 
repeated appearance for this purpose 
only, lulled the Americans into an 
idea of security, which was no sooner 
clearly ascertained by the British 
officer, than he determined on a coup 
de main. 

After making the necessary ar- 
rangements, the garrison, with the 
militia of the district, paraded as 
usual on the ice, moved forward in 
double quick time, and in less than 
half an hour, were in full possession 
of the place. A treaty was then 
agreed upon, by which the Osna- 
burghers bound themselves not to 
admit an American force within the 
precincts of the town, during the re- 
mainder of the war, under the pe- 



219 

nalty of having it blown about their 
ears by the guns of Fort Wellington. 

When General Wilkinson descend- 
ed the St. Lawrence, in the November 
of the following year, with 5000 men, 
in thirteen gun boats, and 300 scows 
and batteaux, he landed his cavalry 
and a strong detachment of infantry 
at Johnstown, having passed Fort 
Wellington in the night, under a fire 
from the garrison. A few days after- 
wards, however, instead of attacking 
the Fort as was expected, he again 
pursued his route toward the Lower 
Province. 

Lieutenant Colonel Morrison im- 
mediately followed him with a corps 
of observation, consisting of de- 
tachments of the 89th, 49th, Cana- 
dian Fencibles, and about fifty Indi- 
ans, with two light six pounders, and 
a few Royal Artillerymen, in all 
l 2 



220 

about 900 men. Captain Mulcaster, 
R. N., was ordered by Sir James 
Yeo, the naval Commander in Chief, 
to co-operate, with the small vessels 
and gun-boats from Lake Ontario. 

On coming up with the rear-guard 
of the Americans, they harassed 
them with great success, until the 3d 
December, when the American Gene- 
ral Boyd faced about near Christlers 
Farm, (a name from henceforth me- 
morable in Canadian history), with 
about 2,500 men, determined to try 
their mettle ; but after a severe action 
of two hours, he was defeated, with 
a severe loss in killed and wounded. 
Two highly respectable and gallant 
young Canadian officers, fell in this 
affair, Captain Nairn, and Lieutenant 
De Lorimer. 

It must at all times be a gratifying 
task, to record the actions of the 
brave, whether friends or foes, let me 



* 



221 

therefore not forget to mention also, 
the American General Codrington, 
who fell, mortally wounded, at the 
head of his brigade, whilst conspicu- 
ously mounted upon a white horse — 
he was making every exertion to se- 
cure the success of the day. 

Would to God that the two nations 
could for ever remain at peace with 
each other ! — Would to God it were 
possible for ever to avoid again rous- 
ing up those feelings of hatred and 
enmity, which make men, speaking 
the same language, enjoying the same 
laws and customs, and sprung from 
the same fathers, so anxiously en- 
deavour to destroy each other. 

War with any nation on the Conti- 
nent of Europe, is preferable to a war 
with America. The appearance of a 
thousand men lying wounded in the 
field after an action, if they speak a 



222 

language foreign to our ear, will not 
excite half that sympathy felt for one 
wounded American. It is true we 
hear their groans, and it will be no 
disgrace to a man, if his heart inwardly 
bleeds at witnessing their agony 
whilst administering to their wants. 
But this is nothing — in America after 
an action, sounds of distress strike 
upon the ear, which immediately an- 
nihilate every feeling of animosity. 

Take up a man mortally wounded, 
speaking as we speak, and thinking 
as we think, he will, as it were na- 
turally, rest his head upon your 
shoulder, as upon that of a brother. 
He will talk to you of his family and 
of his home, and whilst the film of 
death is fast spreading over his eye, 
he will endeavour to express his gra- 
titude, by faintly pressing the hand 
held out to his assistance. 



223 

The last sentence, the last request, 

quivering upon the lip (every word of 

which is felt and understood), will 

force upon the mind a thousand 

thoughts and sensations not possible to 

be described ; and I am not ashamed 

to confess, that so situated, I have 

called upon the Almighty to shower 

down the curse of eternal perdition 

upon all those, who either in their 

madness or their folly, had occasioned 

the war between the two countries. 



. *\AM. . 



LETTER XIV. 



" Thae whigamore bullets ken unco little discretion, and 
will just as soon knock out the life of a psalm-singing auld 
wife, as a swearing dragoon. 5 ' Old Mortality. 



Twenty-four miles below Kings- 
ton, the Gananoqua River falls into 
the St. Lawrence. There is a good 
inn here, and on an eminence is a 
block-house, which was attacked in 
1812 by a detachment of American 
light troops, who were repulsed. In 
this affair an old lady in the neigh- 
l 3 



226 

bourhood was seriously wounded near 
the hip by a musket-shot, whilst as- 
sisting in the defence of the place ; 
and if this heroine is still in the land 
of the living, the emigrant who has 
an introduction to her will observe, 
that in consequence of this unman- 
nerly ball, striking her so hard upon 
the tender, she is no longer able — 

" To trip it on the light fantastic toe." 

In short, he will see that her dancing 
days are over, and that in these 
"piping times of peace" she must 
now content herself, like Donna Clara 
of Saragossa, in shouldering her 
crutch to " show how fields were 
won." 

During the war, Gananoqua was 
the rendezvous for the flotilla of gun- 
boats, under the command of Captain 
C. C. Owen, R.N. employed convoy- 






227 

ing the brigades of batteaux up and 
down the River St. Lawrence. The 
Lake of the Thousand Islands is just 
below Gananoqua, and upon one of 
them, on the 4th of Dec. 1814, I was 
obliged to take up my quarters for 
the night. I had left Kingston Hos- 
pital on leave of absence for the 
Lower Province, having been pre- 
viously an invalid on board H.M.S. 
Princess Charlotte, (now the Kings- 
ton) for several months. To the 
friendship and kindness of Captain 
Edward Collier who commanded her, 
1 consider myself indebted for the 
preservation of my life ; and no words 
of mine can convey anything like an 
adequate sense of the gratitude I feel 
to him, who, in the hour of extremity, 
afforded me every comfort, with that 
generosity and kindness of heart, so 
conspicuous in his character. 






228 

I left Kingston in company with a 
son of Colonel M'Donald of Matilda, 
who had been serving with the Nova 
Scotia Fencibles as a volunteer, and 
I remember our batteaux was manned 
by invalid soldiers of the 103d regi- 
ment. The first night we arrived at 
a small island above Gananoqua, 
which the emigrant will observe on 
his left, in passing up the River St. 
Lawrence. Seven or eight men, em- 
ployed in rafting timber from the saw 
mills, up to Kingston dock-yard, had 
already taken possession of the only 
log hut, which was divided into two 
rooms. One of these was occupied 
by the family, so that when my party 
of six, was added to the number, it 
became very little better than the 
celebrated black-hole of Calcutta. 
Sleeping in the boat, in the open air, 
would have proved a fatal experiment, 



229 

the winter having set in ; we there- 
fore wrapt ourselves in our buffaloe 
skins for the night, determined to 
make the best of it. 

At day-break the following morn- 
ing, we were awoke by our fellow 
navigators, who appeared in great 
apprehension of being obstructed in 
their passage up the river by the ice, 
which now began to float down the 
stream in solid masses, or to spread 
its brittle barrier across, from shore 
to shore. Having nearly the same 
prospect before us as the lumber-men, 
we started as soon after, as possible, 
and reached Down's Inn, at Ganano- 
qua, by ten o'clock. Here we ex- 
pected to find some Canadian, or 
Indian, capable of piloting the bat- 
teaux down the river, and through 
the great rapids, as far as Cornwall, 
where I purposed remaining a short 



230 

time, after leaving my friend McDo- 
nald at Matilda. In this, however, 
we were disappointed, and were 
obliged to proceed without a pilot, 
still indulging the hope of reaching 
Matilda, where one might possibly 
be found, for the remainder of the 
voyage. 

This was only a plan, and like many 
other plans, appeared to be formed 
merely to be frustrated. As we ap- 
proached the Lake of the Thousand 
Islands, where the river divides into 
numerous channels, we saw clearly, 
that the odds were nearly a thousand 
to one, against our being able to carry 
it into effect. We were likewise well 
aware that had the ice intercepted us 
in our course, we must all have either 
died from want ; been frozen to death 
in the batteaux, or perchance have 
been taken prisoners by the Ameri- 



231 

cans. One of these disasters had 
very nearly happened ; for when com- 
pletely bewildered as to which was 
the proper channel, with the evening 
fast closing in upon us, one of the 
soldiers was suddenly taken very ill, 
and the rest of the party (excepting 
Mr. M'Donald) being invalids, ap- 
peared totally incapable of bearing 
fatigue or exertion. In addition to 
other difficulties, the wind which had 
hitherto favoured us, now died away, 
and the only chance of escape there- 
fore, appeared to be, putting the boat's 
head round, and getting clear of the 
islands. 

There is nothing like necessity to 
make people, in cases of life and 
death, exert their strength and in- 
genuity ; and as necessity was com- 
manding officer on this occasion, 
the lame, the sick, and the convale * 



232 

scent manned the oars, and gave 
weigh cheerily against the current. 
This severe labour however, soon ren 
dered another of the soldiers perfectly 
useless, and the remainder in a short 
time after, were in a situation nearly 
as deplorable. 

We lay upon our oars, anxiously 
listening to catch some sound of 
human habitation, but darkness had 
already spread her sable wing over 
the whole face of nature, and nothing 
was to be heard through the stillness 
of the night, but the wild rush of 
the river round a distant headland, 
when Providence — whose extraordi- 
nary interpositions are so often mani- 
fest, especially in the lives of most men 
moving about the world — afforded 
us that relief of which we had began 
to despair. A feeble light, suddenly 
glimmering through the woods on the 



233 

Canadian shore, gave us renewed 
hope ; with renewed strength we 
directed our exertions toward it, 
and after a severe struggle against 
the current, succeeded in making a 
landing close to the light. 

The settler, whose solitary taper 
had served us as a beacon, came 
down to the beach, and assisted in 
removing the sick men into his house. 
Our worthy host possessed a humane 
disposition, and his wife was like- 
wise a kind hearted creature; they 
therefore immediately busied them- 
selves in preparing the best supper 
their humble means afforded, and 
after partaking of it, we once more 
rolled ourselves in our blankets and 
buffaloe skins, hoping to enjoy some- 
thing like comfortable repose. 

But as before, we were here like- 



234 

wise all in one room, and as the sol- 
dier who was taken so seriously ill in 
the early part of the night, had now 
become much worse, the necessity of 
constantly attending to him, pre- 
vented the possibility of closing my 
eyes the whole of the night. It was 
in vain that I wished for sleep — 

" Great Nature's second course 

To steep my senses in forgetfulness." 

" The dread of being again awaked, 
was always uppermost in my imagi- 
nation, and so incessantly stept in 
between me, and the first balmy pre- 
sage of repose, as to rob me of the 
whole sweets of it."* 

The next morning, the ice had ap- 
parently set in for the winter, and we 

* Sterne, 



, 



235 

were consequently obliged to give 
up all idea of proceeding farther 
down the river, in a batteaux manned 
by invalids. We therefore returned 
it to the storekeeper at Gananoqua, 
and the sick men, I gave in charge of 
the medical officer at that post. 

The two following days and nights, 
it blew violently, again breaking up 
the ice, and in consequence a bat- 
teaux from Kingston, belonging to 
the house of M'Kay and Kirby, made 
its appearance. The former being 
on board, very kindly offered a pas- 
sage for myself, servant, and baggage, 
which I gladly accepted, my friend 
M'Donald having gone on to Matilda 
by land the day previous. 

The Hon. George Markland, Cap- 
tain Cartwright of the Canadian 
Fencibles, Lieutenant Coleman, R.N* 



236 

and an officer of provincial light dra- 
goons were of the party, and from 
them I received every attention, and 
was safely landed at the place of my 
destination. 



LETTER XV. 



Ontario's ample breast is still, 
And silence walks the distant hill, 
And summer barks are gently gliding 
"Where lately yonder war towers riding 
Seem'd like leviathans to load 
The bosom of the groaning flood. 

Hall's Canada. 



We have how advanced very nearly 
eight hundred miles into the interior 
of British North America, and have 
been guided all along this extraordi- 
nary line of country, by the marks of 
civilization and improvement. But, 
if the interest, and astonishment, of 
the emigrant, has been excited by what 



238 

he has already seen, how shall I de- 
scribe his feelings, when he arrives 
at what may very properly be con- 
sidered, the source of the mighty river, 
which has borne him this immense 
distance from the ocean ; and to 
which the most magnificent in Europe 
are in comparison, but mere rivulets 
and summer streams. 

As the batteaux strikes in between 
two small islands, under the heights 
of Point Henry, he will be presented 
with a distant prospect of Lake On- 
tario, two hundred miles long, and 
sixty miles in width. Above him, on 
his right, he will observe Fort Henry, 
the principal land defence of the town 
and harbour of Kingston ; and on 
rounding the point upon which it 
stands, he will see the dock-yard and 
naval arsenal upon Point Frederick, 
with the old sea lions laying along 



239 

the wharfs, tame, harmless, and mo- 
tionless. 

The hulls of the fleet, upon which 
the safety of Upper Canada in a great 
measure depended, during the late 
war, now lie basking in the sunshine 
of public favour and protection, like 
the remnant of officers, seamen, and 
marines, who once composed their 
crews. In order to convey some idea 
of the magnitude of the British navaj 
force and power in this inland sea, it 
is only necessary to observe, that had 
the late war with the United States 
continued another year, we should 
have had one ship of 112 guns, two 
ships of 74, one of 64, one of 44, two 
of 24, three of 18, and two of 10 guns, 
with from 30 to 40 gun-boats. The 
American naval force would have 
been no doubt fully equal, as their 
facilities of equipment were much 



240 

more numerous. The French had a 
military post on Point Henry in 1672, 
which they called Fort Frontinac, 
from the governor, whose name was 
likewise given by them, to the Lake 
Ontario. The River St. Lawrence, 
was at that time called the Cataraqui, 
or Iroquois, and this name it still re- 
tains in several of the maps. 

Kingston is a place of extraordinary 
importance in the warlike operation 
for the defence of Canada; and as 
such, landed property in the town, 
and its immediate vicinity, is of great 
value ; indeed, for nearly one hun- 
dred miles, to the right and left of it, 
there is now very little land remaining 
worth having, to be obtained by grant 
from the crown. 

The late war did more for King- 
ston, and the country round it, than 
fifty years of the quiet sort of life the 



241 

inhabitants enjoyed previous could 
have done. The vast sums circu- 
lated by the public establishments, 
past into the coffers of the merchants, 
who again distributed a portion of 
them in the neighbourhood. Many 
fortunes were made by the persever- 
ing and industrious, and since the ces- 
sation of hostilities, these have neces- 
sarily tended to the general improve- 
ment of the country. 

There can be little doubt, but that 
in the event of another contest with 
the United States, Kingston being 
the naval depdt of the upper country, 
will be the grand point of attack, 
should that power gain a tempo- 
rary ascendancy on the lakes; but 
as long as the Upper Canadians 
are true to the cause, and as long 
as Forts Henry, Frederick, and the 
town, are well garrisoned, " the 

M 



242 

tug of war" may last for ever, with- 
out the Americans having the least 
chance of success. 

From Kingston to York, a dis- 
tance of one hundred and forty miles, 
thousands of settlers are now, not 
only establishing themselves around 
the margin of the Lake Ontario, but 
all the way to Detroit, two hundred 
and sixty-five miles farther in ad- 
vance. In this part of Upper Canada, 
there still remains tens of thousands 
of acres of unappropriated land, open 
for the occupation of settlers. The 
land above York is much easier 
cleared than is the lower districts of 
the Upper Province, and the climate 
better suited to agriculture. A par- 
ticular account of the settlements 
above York is unnecessary, as the 
generality of emigrants, will now be 
quite far enough from home, both for 



243 

their pockets and their future views, 
in establishing themselves in Upper 
Canada. 

Throughout the Upper Province, 
from Matilda upwards, a certain 
smattering of Yankee gentlemantility 
will be observed, not a little amusing 
to the new comer. " You are pretty 
tolerable this morning, Squire, 1 
guess." " I thank you Mister, I cal- 
culate I am." " Mister," said a Ser- 
jeant of a working party; " Mister, 
will you help the gentleman at the 
other end of the log, I guess it will 
be a main considerable sight heavier 
to fix than they calculate " — and so 
on ; for it should be recollected that 
the familiar terms of Tom, Dick, or 
Harry, are generally swallowed up in 
the more refined " Squire," and 
i( Mister," of their neighbours over 
the water. These and other eccen- 
m 2 



244 

tricities however, in the character of 
the Upper Canadians, may probably 
be accounted for in that importance 
which every man naturally attaches 
to himself, who feels that he is only 
obliged to Providence and his own 
exertions for all the comfort he 
enjoys. This feeling, in fact, must 
influence all classes of society ; and 
where a man in better circumstances 
than the generality of those who com- 
pose the society in which he lives, 
sees that each person belonging to it 
is perfectly independent, not only of 
him, but of all the world, he cannot 
but regulate his conduct accordingly. 
This may occasion in a great measure, 
that familiar address and intercourse 
which will at first appear so perfectly 
extravagant and ridiculous. Should 
it be said that this peculiarity of man- 
ner has its origin solely in the inter- 



245 

course between the subjects of the 
two powers, I can only reply, that / 
hope this ivill be the only consequence, 
of having such hordes of emigrant 
Americans, spread over every part of 
Upper Canada in the event of another 
war. Experience teacheth knowledge! ! 
In Canada, as in every other coun- 
try, society is cursed with a propor- 
tion of those grumbling croakers, 
who in passing through life, see no- 
thing but what excites in their hearts 
every kind of miserable feeling. For 
them, nature pours out in vain her 
bountiful horn of plenty; and to 
them, the land although covered with 
waving corn, and the richest fruits o 
autumn, is but a dreary wilderness. 
No sooner has the emigrant arrived in 
the neighbourhood of the new settle- 
ments, than he will probably be at- 
tacked by some of these dogs in the 



246 

manger, who would willingly make 
him as wretched and as unhappy as 
themselves. 

They will tell him that he ought to 
have remained in England, that the 
land is barren, the climate horrible, 
and the people thieves. That they 
have toiled in vain to make the former 
bring forth its increase ; that the ex- 
tremes of heat and cold is worse to 
live in than purgatory; and their 
French Canadian neighbours worse 
than any devils. But let the emi- 
grant rest fully assured that the very 
contrary is the fact, and that those 
who express such opinions, are ex- 
actly such people as we have alluded 
to, in considering who ought, and who 
ought not to decide on emigrating. 

Can it be rationally expected, that 
those whose occupations have kept 
them confined in large cities and 



247 

manufacturing towns, should all at 
once become good husbandmen? 
That those who scarcely know a 
plough-share, from a plough coulter, 
should all at once be able to till the 
ground with the same advantage as 
regular bred farmers ? Certainly not, 
and it is folly to expect it ; but as 
the mind of man is actively alive on 
all occasions to find some plausible 
excuse, for every kind of mental, and 
bodily incapacity, so these people 
abuse the land, and the climate, and 
the inhabitants, for what, in fact, 
arises solely from their own want of 
resolution, knowledge, and experi- 
ence. 

These observations are, however, 
not necessary as cautions to the emi- 
grant farmer. He will see in passing 
up the country, that the soil of Ca- 
nada, is equal to any in the world : 







248 

but that of those who occupy it, and 
who profess to cultivate it, from their 
peculiar situation and previous occu- 
pation, a great number are about the 
very worst farmers he ever saw in his 
life. 

As a sensible man, he will not allow 
any gloomy picture presented to his 
view, by such people, to produce in 
his mind a dread of the future. Be- 
fore he embarks, he will do well to 
consider seriously, what he is about 
to undertake, and to gather every 
grain of useful information, to enable 
him to decide how far it is desirable 
for him to emigrate ; but when he 
has decided, and is arrived in the new 
country which he has adopted as his 
future home, let no childish vapour- 
ing then shake him from his purpose. 
Let him rather cherish the determi- 
nation to persevere, and trust in 



249 

Providence, for enabling him to over- 
come all obstacles. Let him con- 
stantly bear in mind that — 

" The wise and active conquer difficulties 
By daring to attempt them. Sloth and folly 
Shiver and shrink at sight of toil and hazard, 
And make the impossibilities they fear." 



M S 



LETTER XVI. 



«' Don't attempt to succour me if you see me go down, 
but keep at the head of your men ; get off as you can in 
God's name, and tell the King, and the Council, I died in 
my duty." 

Claver house, in Old Mortality. 



About sixty miles above Kingston 
is Sandy Creek, a small village and 
Inlet, on the American shore of Lake 
Ontario. On the 30th May, 1814, a 
division of British seamen and 
marines appeared ofT this place in 
pursuit of a convoy, laden with stores 
for the American fleet, in Sacketts 
Harbour. 



252 

Although the entrance of the creek 
was scarcely pistol shot across, and 
completely commanded by sand hills ; 
yet the capture or destruction of these 
stores was considered to be of such im- 
portance as fully to warrant an at- 
tempt to cut them out ; accordingly 
the boats pulled in, leaving the Cleo- 
patra mounting one long twenty-four 
pounder, and a sixty eight-pound car- 
ronade amid-ships, at the entrance, to 
cover their retreat in case of accidents. 

The Americans, however, had had 
ample time to prepare for their recep- 
tion : with a force consisting, of part 
of a rifle regiment, a strong body of 
Indians, and militia, their command- 
ing officer took possession of the 
sand hills, and a line of hedge, which 
enfiladed the shore. 

From this position they kept an 
incessant, and destructive lire upon 






253 

the British detachment that had 
landed, and was forming upon the 
beach ; and it soon became evident, 
that the capture of the convoy was 
not possible, whilst defended by 
numbers so superior, and so advanta- 
geously posted. 

It being absolutely necessary to 
recover possession of the sand hills, 
in order to secure a retreat; the 
marines under the command of Lieu- 
tenant Thomas Sherlock Cox made 
the attempt with the bayonet, but 
were repulsed ; this officer with 
his gallant companion Lieutenant 
M'Veagh, of the same corps, (who 
accompanied him from the squa- 
dron, as a volunteer) being mortally 
wounded. 

The Americans now advanced in all 
directions, and either killed, wounded, 
or succeeded in taking prisoner, 



254 

every man of the division, consisting 
of nine officers, and two-hundred of 
the best men in the fleet ; in this they 
were activelysupported bythe Indians, 
who seeing the fate of the marines, 
rushed down upon their victims, with 
their usual horrible shrieks. Poor 
Cox who was down, and totally inca- 
pable of resistance, called to a marine 
to protect him from their merciless 
tomahawks, and at the hazard of his 
own life, this man undertook the 
charge, and bravely stood by him, 
until he was himself felled to the 
earth by the butt end of a rifle. At 
this moment, however, an American 
officer came up — " who have we 
here ?" cried he ; " is this a commis- 
sioned officer ?" " He is a lieutenant of 
British Marines," replied the prisoner; 
" then I will protect him myself, and 
see that he is properly taken care of " 



<Z55 

said the American ; which generous 
determination he carried into effect, 
and for it I earnestly pray — that 
should the chance of war at any fu- 
ture time throw him into the hands 
of an enemy, under similar circum- 
stances, he may meet some one ready 
to shelter and protect him, and to re- 
turn a ten-fold portion of the kindness 
shown by him on this occasion to my 
lamented friend. 

The Americans carried Lieutenant 
M'Veagh, to Sacketts harbour, where 
he died a few days after, and was 
buried with military honours. But 
the wounds of Lieutenant Cox were 
immediately seen to be decidedly mor- 
tal ; he was therefore only removed 
to a house in the neighbourhood. 
Here the naval commanding officer, 
now his fellow prisoner, whose natu- 
ral contempt of all danger, when put 



256 

in competition with the good of the 
service, had led him to decide on the 
attack, soon after visited him. " This 
is an unfortunate affair €ox," said he. 
u It is " replied my friend, " but it is 
only what might have been expected." 
" If you thought so," rejoined the 
other, *' why did you not give it as 
your opinion?" " Because," replied the 
expiring hero, " I would rather die, 
as I am about to die, than have said 
a word to induce you to retreat." This 
was indeed a reason worthy of the 
gallant heart that uttered it, and 
which on all occasions of the kind, 
had prompted him to act with the 
same conspicuous bravery. 

Although only in the twenty-fifth 
year of his age, he had seen much 
service in various parts of the world ; 
particularly when belonging to his 
Majesty's ship Neried, Capt. N. Wil- 






257 

loughby, in the East Indies ; where 
he was severely wounded, and taken 
prisoner by the French in 1809. 

Besides the recommendation of 
having seen service, he possessed 
the highest and noblest ideas of 
honour, and devotion to the service 
of his country ; indeed, if in his last 
moments he had felt regret at the 
early fate that had befallen him, it 
would have been, that he fell in a 
paltry skirmish; the particulars of 
which would be scarcely known in his 
native country — that instead of dying 
in action, amidst the animating shouts 
of victory, he was doomed again to 
be severely wounded, again to fall 
thus wounded into the hands of the 
enemy, and at last to die, " un- 
honoured and unsung." 

Unhonoured did I say ? all those 
who knew him, will cherish, and 



258 

revere his memory, and will be proud 
to imitate his conduct ; — but " as the 
young and verdant olive which a 
man hath reared with care, is fair 
and flourishing, when the sudden 
blast of a whirlwind roots it out 
from its bed, and strikes it in the 
dust ;" so has he fallen, and a humble 
solitary grave, covered with green 
sods, in this obscure village, on 
the borders of Lake Ontario, now 
shelters the mortal remains of one, 
who, had he been spared to his coun- 
try, and his friends, would by his 
future actions have deserved a monu- 
ment of everlasting fame. 

Poor Tom ! my brave, my gallant 
friend ! how true was the mournful 
presentiment of my mind, when 
seated by the side of my couch, you 
administered that relief, which you 
were yourself destined, a very few 



259 

hours after to require from the huma- 
nity of strangers ; when you kindly 
took my hand, bade me be of good 
cheer, and said that all would soon 
be well ; I already felt in imagination 
the near approach of death, and would 
have given worlds for the chance of 
meeting it by thy side but although 
within hearing of the musketry, whose 
distant vollies sounded upon my 
shattered nerves, like the death-knelJ 
of every hope in life — I could not suc- 
cour thee, — I could not rescue thee. 
An inscrutable Providence had or- 
dained it otherwise, and I was 
doomed to feel an aching void, nearest 
to my heart, which no other ob- 
ject, time, or circumstance, can ever 
alleviate or remove. 

Stranger, — he was my friend, in the 
truest, and noblest sense of the word ; 
and if I have one regret, beyond that 



260 

of having lost him, for ever, it is, 
that I cannot here do justice to his 
memory. 

Though years have rolled over my 
head since this disastrous affair, 
and these years too, have been years 
of much bitterness, and mental suf- 
fering ; this painful remembrance 
still remains the most deeply rooted 
in my mind, and in my heart, and I 
now fondly anticipate the time, when 
during the remainder of my life, I 
shall be able annually to visit his 
grave, to plant and nourish over it the 
evergreen laurel, the brightest emblem 
of valour, and finally to cause myself 
to be laid in death, near him, who, in 
life, I valued as a friend, more than 
any other person on the face of the 
earth, 



LETTER XVII. 



■Hail ye Sons 



Of rural toil, — ye bloomiog daughters f — ye 
Who, in the lap of hardy labour rearM 
Enjoy the mind unspotted! — 

Progress of Liberty. 



The emigrant on his arrival at 
Kingston, should again take a seri- 
ous review of his means. He will 
now have been quite long enough in 
Canada, if at all observant, to be able 
to form some idea of it. Upon these 
gleanings of information, and his re- 
sources, he must himself decide on the 
ultimate extent of his journey, as it is 



262 

totally impossible for any person to 
decide for him. One man may do well 
in one place, and be totally unfit for 
another, and it would be perfect non- 
sense for any person to say to such, 
and such individuals, " so far shalt 
thou go, and no farther." I do not 
pretend to such extraordinary know- 
ledge, and therefore shall only endea- 
vour to afford such general informa- 
tion, as may assist the emigrant in 
coming to a correct, and advantageous 
conclusion, as to what part of the 
Country is best suited to his own 
peculiar circumstances, and situation. 
It is a common practice in both the 
provinces, to let cleared, or as they 
are called, improved farms, upon 
shares, viz. the whole farming stock, 
and implements being provided by the 
landlord, he receives in return, as 
rent and payment for hire, a half, or 



263 

one third, of every kind of produce. 
This is in some cases an advantage to 
a respectable man, who wishes to 
farm in the immediate vicinity of a 
large town, and who has but a small 
capital to commence with. On arriv- 
ing at Quebec, Montreal, or Kingston, 
the emigrant will see numerous ad- 
vertisements, for the letting of farms 
of this description, as well as several 
for sale, or to be let, without the 
stock, &c. &c. after the same manner 
as in this country. In cases of sale, 
the principal is generally allowed to 
remain on mortgage for several years 
the interest, and a small installment 
annually, being only required from 
the purchaser. Should he arrive at 
either of those places late in the 
year, and see any desirable property 
to be let on advantageous terms, he 
had perhaps better take the opportu- 



264 

nity of settling himself immediately. 
This need not interfere with his ulti- 
mate views, which can be promoted 
more advantageously, after residing a 
year or two in the country. 

By such an arrangement, he will 
gradually become acquainted with the 
climate, soil, and advantages of the 
different districts, and whilst his 
rented farm is producing a sufficient 
support for himself, and his family, 
he can take some convenient oppor- 
tunity of making a journey of obser- 
vation. Should he have any one in 
his family, capable of managing in his 
absence, he might even take up his 
land, build his log-house, and clear a 
sufficient number of acres for their 
support, before he removes them 
upon it. 

To the generality of emigrants who 
arrive early in the spring, I should 



265 

however say, " lose no time in taking 
up your land, and settling upon it, in 
the first instance, in preference to 
every other." 

As in every other country newly 
settled, the emigrant to Canada must 
expect to meet difficulties in the edu- 
cation of his family. In Montreal 
and Quebec, there are seminaries for 
the youth of both sexes, equal to any 
private schools in England. At Corn- 
wall, Brockville, Kingston, and York, 
schools are likewise established, but 
from the comparative smallness of 
these places, the advantages they 
present are far inferior. - 

In religious matters likewise, the 
Upper Canadians are in some of the 
newly settled townships, equally un- 
fortunate ; in fact, a very short time 
since, whole districts were totally 
destitute of every kind of scholastic 

N 



266 

assistance, or religious instruction. As 
this presents rather a frightful pros- 
pect, it requires the serious considera- 
tion of the emigrant, who possesses re- 
spectable means for providing nearer 
the principal towns for the mental 
and personal comforts of himself and 
his family. 

The generality of emigrants how- 
ever, must make up their minds to ex- 
perience many privations, and diffi- 
culties for a few years, and these 
among the number. They need not 
on this account be dispirited ; hun- 
dreds and thousands whose views 
and hopes are similar to their own, 
will soon establish themselves around 
them. They will not long be debarred 
the gratification of publicly returning 
thanks in the company of others 
equally obliged, to that great omni- 
potent Power, who has led them in 



267 

safety through the perils of the deep, 
and who now, in the immense forests 
of a new world, spreads over them the 
shield of his almighty protection. 

The emigrant must constantly 
nourish serious and religious reflec- 
tion, he must, in all things, 

" Look through nature, up to nature's God, 

in order constantly to maintain that 
resolution of heart, so necessary for 
one, thrown as it were entirely upon 
himself.^ I care not of what persua- 
sion he calls himself, for this is of little 
moment, provided he possesses that 
quiet satisfaction of mind, arising 
from the consciousness of feeling as 

* To have made this the habitual sentiment of our 
minds, is to have laid the foundation of every thing 
which is religious. The world from thence becomes a 
temple, and life itself one continued act of adoration. 

Dr. Paley. 

k2 



268 

he ought to feel, and of acting as he 
ought to act, toward all mankind, as 
far at least, as the real infirmities of 
his nature will permit him. " Pure 
and undefiled religion is of no sect, 
whatever garb it wears, and whatever 
may be the denomination of the sin- 
cere, and faithful believer in Christ, 
let us in him acknowledge a Brother. 
Hearts may agree, though heads differ ; 
there may be unity of spirit, if not 
of opinion ; and it is always an advan- 
tage to entertain a favourable opinion 
of those who differ from us in religious 
sentiments. It tends to nourish 
Christian charity." 

The average number of emigrants 
landed at Quebec the last nine years, 
exceed 7000 annually, a great pro- 
portion of whom are settled in the 
Scotch settlements on the Tay, and in 



269 

the neighbourhood of Glengary. Oil 
the Rice Lake below York, several 
naval officers have taken up their 
grants, and are actively clearing away 
their land. The following official 
letter will show to officers of the army 
and navy, the grants to which they 
are entitled, in virtue of their services 
and commissions. 

Downing Street, Colonial Department. 
Sir, 

I am directed by Lord Bathurst to 
acquaint you in reply to your letter 
of the that government do not 

give any encouragement to military 
and naval officers, proceeding as set- 
tlers to North America beyond a 
grant of land, proportioned to their 
rank in His Majesty's service, which 
they will receive on applying to the 



270 

governor of the Colony, according to 
the undermentioned scale.- — 

Lieutenant Colonel 1200 Acres. 

Major - - 1000 

Captain - - 800 

Subaltern - 500 

subject always to the conditions of 
actual residence, and cultivation of 
the land assigned to them, within a 
limited period. Passages are not 
granted by government, 

I am, Sir, 

&c. &c. &c. 

This does not mean that the officer 
shall be bound to reside during the 
whole of his life upon his land, but 
that he should actually be in North 
America in the first instance, and 
perform the location duties of his 
grant, before he is entitled to the fee 
simple of it from the Crown. No 






271 

comment is necessary on the justice 
-of this measure, because nothing is 
more baneful to society at large, in 
any country, than large tracts of land 
held by non-residents : in Canada if 
this system was encouraged, the most 
valuable districts would soon fall into 
the hands of land speculators, who 
would in consulting their own private 
interests, sacrifice the happiness and 
prosperity of the community at large. 

In every district is a land board, 
whose duty it is to attend to the 
settlers who make application, the 
Secretary or some official person being 
always in attendance, to give such 
information as may be required. All 
these things are necessarily much 
better arranged now, than they were 
immediately after the war, between 
America and this country. 

I happened to be at Montreal, when 
the first party of Scotch arrived for 



272 

the new settlement of Perth, and 
never shall I forget the joyful, and 
happy countenances, of the whole 
group. They had been long enough 
in smooth water, to recover from the 
effects of the voyage, and 

" Hope the great nurse of life/' 

had evidently administered the balmy 
cup of pleasing anticipation. Already 
in idea, had they taken possession of 
their land, already had they sown their 
crops, and already had a bountiful Pro- 
vidence granted them independence. 

It was in fact a gratifying sight, 
and in a sincere wish for their welfare, 
I remember shaking one or two of 
the party heartily by the hand, and 
bidding them welcome to a country, 
where I was sure they would soon 
become useful members of society, 
deserving all the assistance, and pro- 
tection of the government, which in re- 



..- 



27 3 

turn, they would be ready and willing 
to defend at a future time, should cir- 
cumstances render it necessary. 

The township of Perth was first 
settled in 1816, under the superinten- 
dance of Lieutenant Colonel McDon- 
nell, an officer who had distinguished 
himself on various occasions during 
the war, and it was first occupied by 
disbanded soldiers, and emigrants 
from Scotland. The latter however 
soon became the most numerous, and 
the townships of Richmond, Lanark, 
North Sherbroke, Ramsay, and 
Beckwith, have all since been parti- 
ally located and settled* 

A reference to the map will show, 
that the direction of these new settle- 
ments is nearly due north, toward the 
Ottawa River, and it should be fully 
understood, that it is through this line 
of country, that the great military 
n 3 



274 

road is making, which is to connect 
Kingston with Montreal. From the 
ready communication which the small 
inland Lakes, rivers, and canals, afford 
between these places, from the cha- 
racter and description of the people, 
and from every other circumstance, 
I consider these districts or the vici- 
nity, by far the most desirable for 
those who wish to settle in the upper 
province. 

The steam vessel which runs from 
La Chine across Lake St. Louis, will 
take emigrants up the Ottawa, and if 
they purpose settling in either of the 
above townships, they will find it 
much better to proceed up that river, 
as far as point Nepean, which is about 
twenty miles from Richmond, than to 
go by the way of the St. Lawrence, 
to Brockville. 



■IMBIMli 



LETTER XVIII. 



forests wild 



And Oceans multitudinous unfold 

Their wonders to his gaze! — Then why should man 

Creep like a reptile, —fearful to explore 

The page of human knowledge? 

Progress of Liberty. 



It should be especially borne in 
mind, that an elevated spot, near a 
river, or lake, is preferable to all others; 
indeed no great progress can be made 
in a new country where there are no 
roads,unless the settler has a water com- 
munication with the districts already 



276 

cleared. He should be most anxious 
on this account, and if he can obtain 
a point of land, he will find it prefer- 
able to a bay. 

To those who know nothing about 
the woods of America, and the West 
Indies, it may appear perfectly ridi- 
culous to say, that the greatest pest in 
Canada are the Musquitos, but such 
is the fact. I have often been lost 
in amazement, at the patience of the 
settlers, in the back concessions and 
bays, in the months of July, and 
August, when myriads of these insects 
attack them without mercy, night 
and day. A thousand times have I 
wished for the same volume of curses 
of the good Bishop Enulphus, with 
which the enraged Doctor Slop 
damned the unfortunate Obadiah, to 
excommunicate these blood thirsty 
intruders, but it was of no avail, and 



277 

in spite of all the philosophy I could 
muster, I have more than once been 
fairly beat out of the field. ' 

That part of the country which is 
tolerably clear of wood, as well as 
headlands, running into lakes or rivers 
are free from this annoying pestilence* 
the constant breeze, either soon 
entirely destroys, or obliges them to 
shift their quarters, to places of greater 
security. 

In Quebec and Montreal, however, 
musquitos are very little known. 
Olive oil rubbed over the parts ex- 
posed is a preventive, but which by the 
way I am inclined to think, must be 
all over the body ; indeed, if I was to 
use the traveller's privilege, I should 
say, that a thorough bred Yankee 
musquito would bite through a two 
inch board. If the emigrant is obliged 



278 

to pass a night in a bay, amongst these 
gentry, he had better close the doors 
and windows, and smoke four or five 
cigars: this sort of fumigation will 
very soon make them dance about 
merrily, and join in a sort of baccha- 
nalian concert, after which they fall 
to the ground senseless, and remain 
in that state, until the rays of the 
morning sun, calls them to new life, 
and the traveller from his repose. 

The most general complaint in 
Upper Canada is fever and ague, 
and very few new comers, who settle 
above Cornwall, are fortunate enough 
to escape the particular attentions of 
this great patron of the shakers. 

Very soon after taking up his 
land, if it be in a swampy or low 
situation, and exposing himself to the 
heat of the sun by day, and the fogs 



279 

by night, he will find himself taken by 
the hand by this powerful demon of 
the woods and lakes. He may indeed 
think himself lucky, who avoids his 
greetings; for with fear and trem- 
bling, I remember he well nigh shook 
the soul of me out of its skeleton habi- 
tation. 

I found it was of no use trying to 
give him the cut positive, after he 
had introduced himself; or by 
riding full gallop into the woods to 
avoid an interview, neither of these 
would do ; for like a determined 
highwayman, he stopped me in my 
career, tumbled me in quick time 
out of the saddle, and threatened my 
very life, for having attempted to 
escape him. 

After being afflicted with this 
complaint for several months, I was ►- 



280 

at last cured by eating a double 
ration of venison steaks for breakfast, 
a very comfortable sort of remedy, 
which I beg leave to recommend, in 
preference to any thing that can be 
administered, by any of those worthy 
gentlemen, who bleed for their coun- 
try. 

Whilst speaking of the faculty, with 
all due reverence I trust, I must not 
forget to notice, the great scarcity of 
medical men throughout the whole 
of Upper Canada ; it is no uncom- 
mon thing to see an M. D. A. L 
making a journey of thirty or forty 
miles, to enquire after the health of his 
patients ; his cutting and carving 
apparatus, with the contents of a 
small chemist's shop, crammed into 
a leathern bag, banging away upon 
the ribs of his favourite Rosinante. 



281 

There is a kind of dysentery expe- 
rienced by some people in the Upper 
Country, occasioned by drinking 
the lake waters »' These are all per- 
fectly fresh, but flowing, as they do, 
through «uch an immense extent of 
country, they become impregnated 
with the vast quantites of decayed 
vegetable substances, swept away in 
their course. This however, is in 
reality of no consequence, as there are 
plenty of good springs ; and indeed 
even if there was not this advantage, 
that man deserves to be shot, who 
would drink bad water alone, in a 
country where good whiskey is to be 
had for eighteen pence per gallon. 

There is no other complaint pre- 
valent in Upper Canada; the inhabi- 
tants of the lower province, are as 
robust, and as healthy, as any people 
in the world ; the stoves, and wood 



fires, which are kept burning night 
as well as day, during the whole 
of the winter, give them a pallid 
sickly look ; but the emigrant will 
not be long in the country before he 
sees that they are quite the contrary. 

When he sees them running along 
by the side of their sleighs over the 
ice with their bosoms open, and 
exposed to all the inclemency of the 
weather, he will begin to think that 
habit alone could not produce such 
extraordinary hardihood ; but that 
nature has given them a thickness of 
skin, and a constitutional vigour, 
suited to the climate of the country 
in which they live. 

The traveller who passes through 
Canada for the first time at this season 
of the year, will begin to feel some- 
what nervous, when his driver instead 
of rounding a deep and circuitous bay 



283 

tipon terra firma, urges his horses 
with the greatest sang froid, right 
over the bank of the river or lake, 
and makes directly across the ice for 
some land mark in his route, pro- 
bably ten, fifteen or even twenty 
miles distant, over a depth of water 
sufficient to float a seventy-four gun 
ship. Two horses abreast will move 
him, and three others, with their 
light baggage, along at the rate of 
nine miles an hour. 

Like every other description of 
difficulty, the cold experienced in 
Canada has been represented as 
much more severe than it really is, 
indeed some people imagine it to be 
almost beyond human endurance : the 
fact is, that although the cold at night 
and at the dawn of day, in the depth 
of winter is terribly severe, for those 
exposed to its effects, still to those 



284 

who are able to remain within doors 
until day-light, and provide against 
it, by good wood fires, it is a per- 
sonal inconvenience not worth think- 
ing of for a moment. I remember 
several persons, who for two or three 
winters in Upper Canada, scarcely 
ever wore a great coat during the day, 
and in this description of the climate 
I shall be fully borne out by the evi- 
dence of many. Those who know that 
country, will remember the extraordi- 
nary brightness and warmth of the sun, 
which in Canada shines for several 
hours almost every day, throughout 
the year, apparently anxious to make 
all the reparation possible to the 
animal creation, for the tyranny 
exercised over the vegetable world. 

They will likewise recollect that 
this North American winter, so 
much dreaded by Europeans, is in 



285 

fact the happiest, merriest season of 
the year. 

(i A wrinkled crabbed man, they picture thee, 
Old winter, with ragged beard as grey 
As the long moss upon the apple tree ; 
Close muffled up, and on thy dreary way 
Blue-lipped, an ice drop at thy sharp blue nose 
Plodding along through sleet, and drifting snows. 
They should have drawn thee by the high-heaped hearth, 
Old winter ! seated in-toy great armed chair, 
***** 

Tasting the old October, brown, and bright." 

Excepting those who have newly 
taken possession of their lands, and to 
whom every day at that time will be 
more precious than as many weeks 
three or four years afterwards, every 
person in Canada enjoys a certain 
portion of recreation and pleasure 
during the winter. At the very first 
appearance of Old Grey Beard, they 
begin to prepare the sleighs, and 
carrioles, for visiting their neighbours 



280 

and friends, probably many miles 
distant. 

The careful housewife then begins 
to anticipate a holiday, and once 
more wrapped in her best bear-skin 
cloak, surmounted by a fur bonnet 
large and ugly enough for half a 
dozen people, she shines forth in 
all her glory, ready and willing to 
share in all the pleasures of her lord. 
Indeed during this universal holiday, 
^the better half of man " relax from 
their constant attendance upon do- 
mestic operations, and for the time, 
appear armed at every point, with all 
the gad-about propensities of the dear 
creatures on this side of the water. 

Apropos.— The Indian ladies wear 
long blue cashmere pantaloons, with 
petticoats of the same kind, reaching 
no lower than the knee ; a dress in 
some cases becoming and interesting j 



287 

this although a serious and very valu- 
able piece of information, obliges me 
again to remind the emigrant of the 
command, " thou shalt not covet, &c." 
During the war, it was no uncom- 
mon thing to see an hundred sleighs 
and trains, in one continued line cross- 
ing the different lakes and rivers, be- 
tween Quebec and Kingston, and 
the weight of six hundred men, in 
close column, with two pieces of 
artillery, horses and ammunition 
carts, made no more impression 
upon the ice, than it would upon 
Hounslow Heath. Although this great 
highway affords such facilities to the 
emigrant, who in the first instance 
takes a cleared farm, to move about 
the country, still he must not decide 
on the spot, for ultimately settling 
himself, without first seeing it during 
the summer. He will find the woods 



288 

so full of hard frozen snow, and ice, 
as to render it totally impossible for 
him to form any correct idea of the 
quality of the land, and although 
the height and size of the timber, 
is some criterion, as the best and 
finest always grow on the richest 
soil, still, he cannot possibly ascer- 
tain whether it be swampy or not. 
He should therefore take care to see 
it at a more favourable season of the 
year, before he either completes his 
purchase, or decides upon the dis- 
trict in which he purposes taking up 
his government grant. 

The Canadians have an odd way of 
attaching to the necks of their horses, 
what is termed a choke halter. In 
cases of accidents on the ice, imme- 
diately the horse falls into the river 
or lake, the driver, who generally 
manoeuvres so as on the first appear- 



289 

ance of danger to save himself, pulls 
hard upon the choke halter, which 
prevents the water rushing into the 
lungs, and with singular dexterity, and 
small assistance, he very soon after 
extricates the animal from his perilous 
situation. 

The settler who resides near the 
water is not only enabled to supply 
his family with fish during the sum- 
mer, but even in the winter. This is 
effected by making holes through the 
ice, over which he takes his stand at 
night, with a lanthorn, or torch, and 
as the fish rise to the surface, and re- 
main stupidly gazing at the light, the 
fisherman strikes them with his spear, 
or entangles them with a net prepared 
for the purpose. 

Although the woods produce a vast 
variety of birds,— from the majestic 
eagle to the little wren, the only one 
o 






290 

of its kind, possessing peculiar beauty 
that I observed, was the Canadian 
woodpecker, (picus erythrocephalus) 
which is considerably larger than the 
English bird of that name, and of a 
variegated grey colour, with a top- 
knot of glossy crimson. This is be- 
lieved by some to be a superior bait 
for the Masquinonge. There is a pe- 
culiar kind of owl in Canada, not 
more than half the size of the English 
owl, with plumage something similar 
to the woodpecker, excepting the 
colour of the top-knot. 

The woods likewise abound in 
squirrels, rabbits, hares, foxes, ra- 
coons, deer, ferrets, weasels, &c. &c. 
but the flying squirrel is by far the 
most interesting of all the wild inha- 
bitants of the forest. Nature has 
given these little creatures, a thin skin 
from their fore to their hind legs, 



291 

which they extend at pleasure, and 
thus prepared, fearlessly throw them- 
selves from the tops of the highest 
trees, and spreading their slender para- 
chutes, gently alight upon the ground, 
at a very considerable distance. In 
the country above Lake Erie, wolves 
have been known in very severe sea- 
sons to leave the forests, and attack 
the sheep folds of the settlers, but as 
they are generally not larger than a 
common sized dog, and immediately 
fly at the approach of man, this dan- 
ger may be easily avoided. In the 
settled districts such an event is never 
apprehended, as these animals as well 
as every other description of creature, 
supposed to be constantly at war with 
the human species, are seldom seen 
excepting by hunting parties of In- 
dians. Beavers, — the most sagacious 
brute inhabitants of the new world, 
o 2 



292 

are now scarcely ever to be met with. 
Man, the great tyrant of the earth, 
is gradually approaching their most 
solitary haunts, breaking up their 
peaceful communities, and towns, and 
driving the wreck of the inhabitants 
into the trackless regions, nearer to 
the pole. From the unerring rifles 
of the hunters, very few, if once seen, 
ever escape, and as their skins are 
eagerly sought after by the fur traders, 
the Indians pursue them with great 
anxiety and perseverance. 



i 



LETTER XIX. 



long may discordant broils, 



Be severM from thy shores ; may howling War, 
Blow its dread blast, far, far from thee, 
While thy bold ramparts tow'ring o'er the wave 
Shall bid thy foes defiance ! 



There cannot, possibly, be more 
gratifying reflections for all those who 
think of settling in Canada, than that 
positive distress, and absolute want, 
are scarcely known in either of the 
Provinces ; excepting as I before ob- 
served in the immediate neighbour- 
hood of large towns ; and that capital 






294 

and other crimes, are likewise very 
rarely heard of; throughout both the 
Canada's not more than half-a-dozen 
civilians have been executed, or 
even condemned these last twenty 
years. In passing through the coun- 
try, from Quebec to Michilimac- 
kinac, not one house in a hundred 
will be found at any hour of the 
night, for which a wooden latch is not 
considered a sufficient protection. 
v It may be said that there are no 
locks and bolts, because they are 
difficult to be obtained ; but I sup- 
pose it would not require a very great 
conjuror to manufacture a wooden 
bar, in the midst of a forest ; and as 
these, even are seldom used, it is only 
fair to conclude, that such precautions 
are unnecessary. 

The emigrant may therefore settle 
in any place he pleases in perfect 



295 

safety ; and if near a river, or lake, 
his canoe, his dog, his fishing tackle, 
and his gun, will afford a pleasant 
relaxation from the constant toil of 
clearing and cultivating the earth; 
it will likewise relieve him from that 
stupefaction of intellect, which the 
dull monotony of a life passed en- 
tirely in the woods, cannot other- 
wise fail of producing. 

It is scarcely necessary to observe, 
that there are no game laws ; he 
may go out as often as he pleases, and 
kill as much as he can, without any 
other person than himself, and his 
family feeling at all interested in the 
matter. What is called game in this 
country, is difficult to be obtained in 
some parts of Canada, from the thick- 
ness of the underwood; but wood- 
pigeons are to be had in abundance. 









296 

There is likewise plenty of water fowl, 
and fish of every description ; the 
largest, which is called by the Indians, 
Maskinonge, is good eating, and 
appears to be the only inhabitant 
of the waters, of any size, peculiar to 
North America. 

In speaking of the immense forests, 
inland seas, and rivers of Canada, it 
may appear a proper association of 
ideas, to talk of wild beasts, croco- 
diles, and rattle- snakes — but these 
are things long since passed away, 
like the days before the flood. It is 
true, that the younger generation 
of the bear tribe are sometimes in- 
troduced into the markets of Que- 
bec and Montreal, on the top of the 
cabbage waggons, and passed into 
" durance vile," at the rate of 15s. 
per head, but their "- very grave* 



^m 



- 



p p 



i 










297 



and reverend" fathers, are now very 
seldom seen, on the Canadian side of 
the Hudson Bay boundary. 

On one occasion, I remember hear- 
ing of a stately old gentleman of this 
description, who by some chance or 
other, strolled into the neighbour- 
hood of a church, and after roaming 
about for some time, at length popped 
his head in at an open window, and 
from thence, took a review of the 
congregation, with great apparent 
satisfaction. This however proved no 
joke for poor bruin, for in conse- 
quence of the masterly directions 
immediately given by the clerk, and 
the finely executed manoeuvres of the 
congregation, his retreat was cut off, 
and his life made to pay the forfeit 
of his temerity. 

The emigrant has therefore no- 
thing to dread in Upper, or Lower 
o 3 






298 

Canada, neither the natives, the 
beasts of the forests, reptiles, or 
insects of any kind but the musquito, 
and these are as common in any other 
thickly wooded country, as they are in 
Canada. A man may here with per- 
fect safety take his dog, and his gun, 
and make a coasting voyage in his 
canoe, of several days, in any direc- 
tion; he may likewise without, the 
least chance of molestation, join a 
hunting party of Indians, strike with 
them into the woods, and not return 
until tired of the sport. 

If he is surrounded by people who 
are poor, when compared to the 
wealthier settlers of New South Wales, 
and Van Diemen's Land, he has the 
satisfaction of knowing, that they are 
honest, humane, and brave; and there- 
fore, that they deserve to be happy. 

In Canada, although we hear very 









/■%■ 



" #■■ #1 

299 

little about liberty, there are no 
slaves; the emigrant will here find 
no hordes of Caffres, ready to sweep 
away his cattle, or destroy his corn, 
and all the fruit of his labour, when 
ripe for the sickle. Here are no 
cut throat housebreakers, laying wait 
to destroy him and his family, if 
he ventures to move out unarmed, 
or to plunder his property should he 
not be upon the spot to defend it ; 
indeed, here he will have nothing to 
fear, whose conduct evinces a proper 
respect for himself and for the laws ; 
these being the same as those he has 
left behind him, and written in the 
same language, cannot be misunder- 
stood. 

The trial by jury, that great foun- 
dation of the liberty of the subject, 
secures to him the most valuable of 
his rights and privileges, This is a 









9* 



? - O, 






■ 

blessing of which the emigrant to the 
colonies, to which I have just al- 
luded, as well as to the cape, is de- 
prived, and although there can be 
no doubt but that this, and other 
privileges, already enjoyed by the 
Canadians, will be granted to all, in 
due time, still, why should he subject 
himself even for a moment to such 
privations, and a military govern- 
ment ? Why should the man, who 
seeks not riches, but quiet indepen- 
dence, go four times the distance, 
to a land principally inhabited by the 
very outcasts of society, or to one 
nearly as far, over-run with Caffres. 

The merchant who merely makes 
a temporary residence, in either of 
those colonies, may, for the ultimate 
object before him, readily submit 
himself to many things ; but his situ- 
ation is far different from that of the 



f* 



* 



301 

emigrant, who leaves his native coun- 
try for ever. He begins life again 
as it were, with renewed vigour, and 
with renewed hopes ; anxious only 
for the welfare of his family, and in 
quietude and retirement to move 
on "toward that bourne from whence 
no traveller returns." 

To such a man, I say, that the Bri- 
tish Provinces in North America, and 
especially the Canadas, possess ad- 
vantages superior to all the other 
countries which we have noticed ; 
and that in Canada, although he 
must not hope to accumulate a for- 
tune in money, he may in a few 
years obtain, and enjoy unmolested, 
that inestimable blessing of a benefi- 
cent providence, a full and perfect 
independence. 



m 



? 



APPENDIX. 



POT AND PEAKL ASH. 

To show the emigrant the vast im- 
portance of these two great staple 
commodities of the Canadas, it is 
only necessary to give a rough esti- 
mate of the quantities imported at 
Liverpool only, from Quebec and 
Montreal, between July 1st. and Sep- 
tember 30, 1823. 

This period I selected without any 
kind of reference either to the season, 
or the yea*? and which may be either 
good or bad, according to circum- 
stances. 



304 



Number of 
Barrels. 


Total Ave- 
rage Weight. 


Lowest Ave- 
rage Price. 


Amount. 


10,922 


32,766cwt. 


40s. pi'cwt. 


£65,532 



A considerable portion of the above 
was no doubt manufactured in the 
states bordering upon Canada, and 
sent down to Montreal by the Ameri- 
cans, the river St. Lawrence afford- 
ing them a greater facility for getting 
their ashes and timber to market, 
than their own inland water commu- 
nications. This circumstance, how- 
ever, does not lessen the importance 
of the subject to the emigrant. In a 
country like Canada, where a long 
winter prevents industry in the field, 
he will find it of the most essential con- 
sequence, as during severe weather, 
instead of exposing himself in clear- 
ing his land, he may be advanta- 
geously employed manufacturing his 
potash. 



305 

In the observations which I shall 
offer, in order to show the most easy 
manner of procuring this article, I 
shall endeavour to use only such 
terms, as may be easily understood 
by all those who know but very 
little of chemistry ; these pages being 
intended more especially for the 
guidance and instruction of those, 
who, possessing a fair proportion of 
common sense and ingenuity, with a 
great deal of perseverance and indus- 
try, are anxious to turn these quali- 
ties to the best advantage. 

In the first place, the emigrant 
must bear in mind that no sooner has 
he taken possession of his land, than 
it is necessary for him to make such 
arrangements for preserving every 
particle of inferior timber, under- 
wood, and weeds, which he has occa- 
sion to remove from the spot where 






306 

he intends erecting his log house, as 
shall, when manufactured into pot- 
ash, fully repay him for all his time 
and labour. Every kind of vegetable 
when burned will produce potash ; 
but unfortunately so few emigrants 
know this, or any thing at all about 
the manufacture of it, that these 
sources of profit and advantage are 
thrown away, or totally neglected. 
For instance, a man takes up a grant 
of land, and seeing himself in the 
midst of a forest, has no idea of the 
value of any part of the timber, but 
of those trees, which from their size 
and quality, he naturally concludes 
are worth sending to market. The 
consequence is, he begins cutting 
away, totally regardless of every 
other object, but that of getting his 
land ready for the plough. All the 
underwood, inferior timber, &c. &c 















V. 



307 

he removes to a distance out of the 
way of his present operations, where 
it is left to rot, or probably it is 
thrown into the stream and allowed 
to float away with the current. 

In thousands of instances this is 
the case, and I have been often struck 
with the extraordinary ignorance dis- 
played by many on this subject, who 
were professedly capable of taking 
charge of parties of settlers to Ca- 
nada, and other countries. 

I do not mean to say that every 
man, whatever may be his views and 
station in life, is an ignoramus if he 
does not know what pot and pearl 
ashes are : that would be nonsense ; 
but I think those who intend emigrat- 
ing to a new country, and more espe- 
cially those who take charge of the 
interests of others, ought at least to 
know, what the exports and imports 



308 

of that country are: and this very 
enquiry will lead them to consider 
how far any of these can be made 
available to their own peculiar in- 
terest, or to the advantage of those 
under their charge. 

To the Canadians these great 
staple commodities must continue to 
be for many years a source of extra- 
ordinary profit; and the short dis- 
tance between Quebec and the Euro- 
pean markets, will always ensure a 
a ready sale for all they can manu- 
facture. 

As we before observed, every kind 
of vegetable that is free from sea salt, 
will, when burned, produce potash in 
greater or lesser degree; and the 
following table given by Mr. Kirwan, 
will shew the proportions contained 
in some of them. 



309 



Names of the Vegetables. 



Stem of the Maise. 
Large Sunflower . . 
Twigs of the Vine 

Box 

Sallow 

Ash 

Oak 

Aspen 

Beech 

Fir... 

Fern in August..., 

Wormwood 

Fumitory 



Product 


Product 


in Ashes. 


in Alkali. 


88,00 


17,05 


57,02 


20,00 


34,00 


5,05 


29,00 


2,26 


28,00 


2,85 


23,05 


3,09 


13,05 


1,05 


12,02 


0,74 


5,08 


1,27 


3,04 


0,45 


36,46 


4,25 


97,44 


73,00 


319,00 


79,00 



The above was produced from 
lOOOlbs. weight of each of these 
vegetables, and the result was, 1st. 
that the potashes from different 
vegetables have different colours. 
2ndly. That the quantity of alkali* is 
not by any means in proportion to the 
quantity of ashes in the vegetable : 
and 3rdly. That ashes require very 
different proportions of water to be- 
come exhausted by lixiviation, (or 
soaking.) 



Salt. 



310 



Names of 


Weight 
of the 


Produce 


Weight 
of 


Produce 




the Vege- 
tables. 


Vegetable 
burnt. 


in Ashes. 


Water 
employed. 


Pot Ash. 


Colour. 




lbs. 


lbs. 


oz. 


dr. 


lbs. 


lbs. 


oz. 


dr 


ST. 




Box 


800 


23 






216 


1 


12 


6 


24 


Bright lead ore. 


Oak 


915 


12 




5 


124 


1 


6 


4 


12 1 Brownish grey. 


Beech 


887 


5 


3 




66 


1 


4 


6 


Coffee with milk. 


Elm 
Ash 


981 
1018 


11 
24 



1 


] 
6 


216 
300 


1 
3 


3 
15 


5 


36 


Greyish white. 
Reddish grey. 


Aspen 
Fir 

Sallow 
Vine Twigs 


648 
730 
800 
800 


8 

2 
22 

27 


1 

7 
12 



5 
7 
5 
4 


120 

80 

200 

276 


3 

2 
4 


/ 
7 
5 
10 


6 

1 
4 


18 


Deep black. 
Light black. 
Light brownish grey. 
Whitish grey. 


Turnsole 


100 


20 


11 


4 


33.3 


4 








Milk-white somewhat 


Maize 


440 


39 








612 


7 


12 


1 


56 


yellow. 
Ash coloured. 



M. Chaptal, when Director Gene- 
ral of the Gunpowder and Nitre 
Works of France, ordered some ex- 
periments to be made in the depart- 
ment of Vosges ; and the following 
was the result. 

lb. oz. 

1 Olbs. of ashes of broom yielded 2 5 potash, 

J Olbs. ditto of fern 3 5 

1 Olbs. ditto of heath... 1 12 

lOlbs. ditto of roots of pine 2 9 

lOlbs. ditto of maize straw 4 3 



Instead therefore of all this timber, 
underwood and weeds, which is ap~ 



311 

parently useless, being thrown away, 
it should be cut into convenient 
lengths, and carefully stacked, until 
the emigrant can commence burning 
it into ashes. These stacks should 
be formed in different places, so that 
he may not have far to carry his 
timber, in forming each of them, and 
where he may burn it on the spot. 
Some dig holes in the ground for the 
purpose of carrying on this part of 
the operation : but the preferable 
way is to select such situations as are 
sheltered as much as possible from 
the wind, and to add the fuel to the 
fire very gradually. By keeping the 
entire burning mass well stirred, every 
particle will be reduced to ashes, 
which cannot be so easily affected by 
the former method. 

Unless the emigrant is careful to 
perform this part of the operation 



312 

effectually, he must not hope to make 
good potash ; and when he reflects 
that all that timber not worth sending 
to market, all weeds, every unpro- 
fitable vegetable, with the lops and 
tops of the best of his trees, may thus 
be made to produce a certain return 
in money, for the trouble and ex- 
pence of clearing his land, he surely 
will not omit to avail himself of the 
opportunity thus afforded him. 

We will now look to the second 
part of the process. The emigrant 
must prepare two, or more wooden 
troughs, according to his circum- 
stances, &c. &c. it matters not how 
rough they are, provided they be water 
tight ; six feet by six feet, and five feet 
deep will be a convenient size, but of 
course the magnitude of the utensils 
used must be in proportion to the ex- 
tent of his means, &c. The man who 



313 

has not ingenuity sufficient to knock 
a few plain boards together, as above 
described, may rest fully assured he 
will make but a very sorry settler in 
the woods, where he will be thrown in a 
great measure upon his own resources, 
These troughs must be raised for 
convenience the height of a common 
water pail, and placed by the side of 
each other, care being taken to ascer-r 
tain that the supporters are fully able 
to bear the weight intended for them. 
The emigrant should now spread a^ 
thick layer of stout rushes over the 
bottom, then a layer of ashes, then a 
layer of rushes; and so on, alternately, 
until the trough is two thirds full : 
the water must then be poured in to 
the brim. The more care taken in 
spreading the ashes and rushes, the 
more easily, and effectually, will the 
water penetrate ; near the bottom, a 
p 



314 

tap-hole must be bored to let out the 
lees, at the expiration of about forty- 
eight hours, they must then be passed 
through a strainer for boiling. 

I have observed many Americans, 
and Canadians, in the back-woods* 
use large sugar hogsheads, instead of 
such troughs as I have described, but 
these are very inconvenient. Chaptal 
says, when speaking of the manufac- 
tories in France — " I have seen manu- 
factories of pot-ash, where the steep- 
ing-vessels each contained two thou- 
sands five hundred pounds of ashes ; 
this size appeared to me too large, it is 
difficult to effect in them a perfect lixi- 
viation ; this inconvenience is but very 
partially remedied, by the practice of 
wetting the ashes as they are deposited 
in the vessel." Some people content 
themselves with pouring cold water 
upon the ashes; but if the emigrant has 



315 

a copper, or large boiler of any kind, 
he will find it more to his interest to use 
water as hot as possible; the ashes 
will be better soaked, their saline 
quality will be easier extracted, and 
a considerable time will be saved in 
this part of the operation. 

As many casks, &c. as the emigrant 
can provide, will now be necessary 
to contain the lees, and the remaining 
part of the process is exactly similar 
to the manufacture of common salt in 
this country ; in fact all those who 
have seen an English saltern, have 
seen just what a pot and pearl ash 
manufactory, on an extensive scale 
should be in the woods of Canada. 
The emigrant who happens to be 
in the neighbourhood of one, would 
do well before he embarks, to take 
every opportunity of observing the 
principles upon which common salt 
p 2 



316 

is produced. In one day he will 
derive more information, and under- 
stand the thing more clearly, than he 
would from reading a whole volume 
of written instructions. 

Merely once soaking the ashes, 
will not be sufficient to extract from 
them all their alkali, or saline quality; 
more waiter must therefore be poured 
upon them ; and these second lees 
should, when again heated, be poured 
upon the new ashes, instead of plain 
water ; it matters not what sort of water 
is used for this purpose, provided it is 
not impregnated with sea salt. Some 
manufacturers indeed prefer putrid, 
or stagnant water ; and say that a 
greater proportion of pot-ash may be 
obtained by using it. 

In order to try the strength of his 
liquor, the emigrant may, if conve- 
nient, provide himself with an aero< 



31? 

meter,* and by it, when he finds that 
his lees have acquired the strength of 
fifteen degrees and that he has pro 
vided as much as he can conveniently 
preserve, he may employ himself 
during the bad weather, in the winter* 
extracting the salt or pot-ash. 

In some of the northern depart- 
ments of France, where the forests 
cover a great part of the land, almost 
all the inhabitants of the country 
manufacture the ashes. The women 
and children collect decayed wood 
and burn it; the cinders are lixiviated, 
in warm water, and the evaporation 
is conducted in small kettles which 



* This instrument, however, is not at all neces- 
sary, as practice, and common observation will 
«>on enable him to judge sufficiently correct, -as 
to the strength of the liquor. 



MfilUKHHittltii Ml 



318 

do not contain more than one hundred 
pounds of this liquor. In the southern 
departments of France, where the 
wood is scarcely sufficient for domestic 
uses, the ashes are bought at private 
houses, and are manufactured in 
works built for the purpose. 

The emigrant may purchase every 
discription of iron kettle, in Canada, 
as cheap as in England ; but the 
shallower they are* in reason* the 
better. The method of using these 
kettles is as simple as the first part 
of the process ; all that is necessary 
is to fill them with the lees, place 
them over a fire, and keep them boil- 
ing; as the liquor evaporates, more 
lees must be poured into them, until 
it obtains the consistence of thick 
paste or honey ; care must then be 
taken to prevent it from adhering to 
the sides of the kettle or boiler, by 



mwaimmm&M: :rv 



319 

keeping the contents well stirred with 
a piece of iron. When it assumes a 
solid shape, on cooling in the air, 
and can be moved in the kettle, by 
the iron bar, it is then pot-ash fit 
for the market. 

I will not here enter into a parti- 
cular description how to make pearl- 
ash, because the generality of emi- 
grants cannot proceed, with any ad- 
vantage, beyond the first operation of 
making the pot-ash ; a slight know- 
ledge of chemistry, with one or two 
good works on that particular branch 
of science, being indispensably ne- 
cessary ; I shall therefore merely add, 
that pearl-ash is pot-ash whitened 
by calcinaton or burning, and that it 
fetches a proportionably higher price 
in the market. Added to the above, a 
few observations on the subject of pot- 
ash, by M. Chaptal will, I trust, show 



!^.-fl 



320 

the emigrant the great advantages thd 
manufacture of it presents ; advantaged 
which, although derived from so sim- 
ple a process are unfortunately little 
understood, and of which so few, 
comparatively speakings avail them- 
selves. — / 

" When it is intended to clear a 
forest, the establishment of a manu- 
factory for pot-ash is almost always 
advantageous ; as it is the only means 
of applying, to a profitable purpose, 
the small wood, which will not serve 
for others uses ; and this is the origin 
of the immense quantities of pot-ash, 
which are manufactured in America. 
In France, Where this combustible is 
much less abundant than in countries, 
less advanced in civilization, and the 
manufactures consequently less nu- 
merous, immense forests are still 
found where cultivation is impossible, 



321 

ewing to the want of a market. Ma^ 
-nufactories of pot-ash have been es- 
tablished in some ; and might without 
inconvenience be established in others 
if the manufacture was superintended 
in such a manner as might ensure a 
good return. 

" The herbaceous plants are, of all 
vegetables, those which produce the 
most ashes ; shrubs furnish more than 
•trees, leaves more than branches, 
and the branches more than the 
trunks. The husks and fibres of cer- 
tain esculent (eatable) plants ; as 
the stalks of the French, and the 
large bean ; the melon, the cucumber, 
the cabbage, and artichoke, produce 
richly the pot-ash; the leaves of 
tobacco, which form the refuse in 
the manufacture of snuff, the stems 
of the sunflower, the maize, and the 
potatoe, and other rich resources £ 
p3 



322 

fern, heaths, the fruit of the horse- 
chesnut, brooms and thistles, may be 
a great assistance in supplying a ma- 
nufactory of pot-ash. When it is in- 
tended to manufacture it from the 
plants of the field, it is necessary to 
cut and gather them with care, so 
that no earth may remain adhering to 
them, or communicate impurities to 
the alkali. The pot-ash most esteemed 
in commerce is in general that which 
has a yellowish appearance. 

"When the vegetables have been 
imperfectly burnt, there remains an 
extractive principle which injures the 
quality. Pot-ash is very soluble in 
water ; when pure it attracts moisture 
from the air and deliquesces. Its 
taste is sharp, acrid and resinous, and 
it has a slightly empyreumatic odour. 
. Although pot-ash is of the most 
extensive use in the arts, and the 



323 

manufacture of it might be established 
in almost every part of the Empire, 
in order to use the ashes of our 
hearths, the unprofitable vegetables, 
or the timber of forests when the means 
of cultivation fail ; yet is this species 
of industry known only in a few of 
our departments. I have attempted, 
to encourage this trade in the forests 
of Lozere and of Aveyron, and had 
to this effect formed an establishment 
of this kind at Saint Saviour, near to 
Meyrueis. This establishment pros- 
pered during six-years ; but the revo- 
lution occasioned the annihilation 
of it." 

He then goes on to describe potash 
as the material which forms the base 
of the manufactories of soft soap, of 
glass, and of saltpetre, and that his 
government ought to " endeavour to 
give a popularity to this kind of ma~ 



• 



324 

hufacture. I say popularity, because 
the materials of the manufacture are 
every where found, and it is only re- 
quired to procure a tub, a small 
bucket, and an iron boiler in order to 
manufacture potash. This portable 
apparatus may be fixed any where, 
and at a small expence, and it would 
be particularly advantageous to make 
it known in mountainous countries, 
where it would furnish a very useful 
branch of industry to the inhabi- 
tants." 

I shall conclude this by observing 
that thesfe ashes before being subject 
to the operation of lixiviation, which 
1 have described, may be sold to the 
pot-ash manufacturers for, from six- 
pence to ninepence per bushel, ac- 
cording to their quality, 

The emigrant will soon be able 
to judgie for himself, as to which plan 



325 

it is most desirable to adopt ; but in 
either case, if he is careful in making 
the most of these ashes, the produce 
will, as I before observed amply 
repay him the first expences, of 
settling on his grant, and of clearing 
his lands afterwards. 



MAPLE SUGAR. 

Thrown as the emigrant must be, 
almost upon his own resources, it is 
absolutely necessary that he should 
know how to manufacture sugar, 
beer, bread, &c; and in fact he should 
be armed at all points ; and excepting 
for his farming implements, and what 
he absolutely cannot make himself, he 
ought not to go beyond the bounds of 
his own grant for assistance. His 
Jand, and his own ingenuity, ought to 



326- 



produce him every necessary, until 
he is well settled, and can afford to 
pay for the labour of others. 

The following brief observations 
will show him how to procure sugar ; 
which article he must otherwise pur- 
chase by a sacrifice of time and 
money. 

Early in the spring, the maple trees, 
with which the Canadian woods 
abound, are bored with a large auger 
in order to extract the sap, which for 
about a month flows in very consi- 
derable quantities. After making the 
hole, a small piece of the tree is 
scooped from below upwards, so as to 
form a convenient channel for the 
sap, which is again assisted by a 
little wooden spout, to drain it away 
from the body of the tree into pans 
or troughs, placed at the foot for the 
purpose. These are emptied every 



327 

night, and at the end of the season, 
by the simple process of boiling and 
skimming, it is manufactured into 
sugar. A little milk thrown in when 
well boiled will materially assist in 
clarifying it ; it is almost needless to 
observe that in rainy weather, very 
little can be made, and that a warm 
sun materially assists the flow of the 
sap. A good tree will give three 
pounds of sugar each year ; some of 
the settlers will bore upwards of a 
hundred ; the produce of which will 
sell in the market, for threepence, or 
fourpence, per pound. 

Present Prices of Provisions, Cattle, and $er- 
vants* Wages in Canada. 



2d. to 3d. per lb. 
8d. per Ik 







32$ 

TJheesc - Od. per lb. 

Flour - 4 dollars per barrel. 

Wheat - 4 shillings per bushel. 

Indian Corn 2 do. do. 

Potatoes - 1 do. do. 

A good Cow 20 dollars to 30. 

A good Horse 60 do. to 100. 

A Sheep - 8 shillings. 

A Farming Servant about 5 dollars per month. 

Woman Servant 3 do. do. 

Dollars, dollar notes, English gold coin, and 
American gold eagles, are more generally used 
throughout the Canadas, than any other descrip- 
tion of money. The currency is regulated by the 
Halifax standard, so that eighteen shillings Eng- 
lish, are equal to twenty Canadian. 



ROADS AND DISTANCES. 

from Quebec to Michilimackinac. 

miles. dif. 

From Quebec to Montreal 180 180 

_ to Coteau du Lac 225 45 

^ r-,,- to Cornwall 266 41 



Carried forward 266 



S2d 

miles. dtf; 

brought forward 266 

From Quebec to Matilda 301 35 

; — ■- — . to Augusta 335 38 

to Kingston 385 50 

^— ; - to Niagara, £ 

or to York 3 
to Fort Erie 

- . , to Detroit 

r-- to Michilimackinac 1 107 3 1 7 

1 107 miles 



525 


140 


560 


35 


790 


230 



From Quebec to Halifax. 

miles. difi 

From JPointe Levi to the Portage 110 110 

Across the Portage to the > 146 3 g 

Lake Tuniscanata ) 

From thence to the Forks } jgy 4 \ 

of Madawaska $ 

- — ~ to the Great Falls 227 40 

, to Fredericktown 351 124 

* to Saint Johns 430 79 

— to Halifax 619 189 



619 miles. 



330 

N.B. This journey of 619 miles was performed 
on snow shoes in the winter of 1812, by the 104th 
regiment, and by Captains Barclay, Finnis and 
Worsley, &c. R.N. ; and the following winter by 
Captain Edward Collier, R.N. and Lieutenant 
Alexander Phillips, R.M. with a party of volun- 
teer seamen and marines, for the Lakes. 



From Quebec to Boston, (UnHed States ) 

miles. dif. 

From Quebec to St. Giles's 30 30 

— to Ireland 60 30 

— to Shipton 90 30 

. to St. Francis 106 16 

— — to the Forks i 



•} 



A-o< ' > 28 M 

to the Boundary ? , . g . g 

Line £ 

to Sheffield 169 23 

to Linden 188 19 

to Haverhill 223 35 

to Dartmouth ? O ~o qq 



v- 



College 
to Boston 364 111 



364 miles. 



mI 



331 



From Quebec to Albany, (United States.) 

miles. dif. 

From Quebec to Montreal 180 180 

__i to Lapraire 189 9 

to St. John's 203 14 

to Isle aux Noix 217 14 

' — to Windmill Point 229 12 

to Savage Point 235 6 

to John Martins 241 6 

i to Sandbar 255 14 

to Burlington 269 14 

1 to Dr. Smiths 339 70 

to Sheensborough 347 8 

to Fort Anne 359 12 

to Sandy Hill 369 10 

— to Fort Edward 371 2 

to Dumont's Ferry 383 12 

to Ensigns 391 8 

to Stillwater 397 6 

f to Waterford 407 10 

_ to Flats (Albany) 419 12 



419 miles* 



332 

OSWEGO, 

^n the American shore of Lake On* 
tario, has always been considered a 
military post of some importance, 
and is now one of the principal sta- 
tions on the northern frontier of the 
State of New York, It was taken 
by assault on the sixth of May, 1814, 
by the second battalion of Royal Ma- 
rines ; the flank companies of de 
Wattevilles, a company of the Glen- 
gary Fencibles, and a body of seamen 
from the fleet. I mention it, because 
this affair proved fatal to Captain 
Holtaway of the marines, and to 
Lieutenant de May of the grenadiers 
of de Watteville's. 

The former had an extraordinary 
presentiment of what was to happen 
to him, and so strongly had this idea 
taken possession of his mind, that he 



333 

requested me (as his subaltern) on 
the night of the fifth, to explain to his 
company the state of their accounts. 
" I wish it," said he, "m case of acci- 
dents." I complied with his desire, 
and endeavoured to rally him into 
better spirits ; but it was of no avail, 
he felt assured of his fate, and pre- 
pared to meet it as if it had been his 
inevitable doom. 

We had attempted to land during 
the afternoon of the same day, but 
from bad weather coming on, the 
signal had been made for the boats 
to return on board, and it was under- 
stood that the attack was deferred 
until midnight. The night however 
passed without any thing particular 
occurring, the weather having con- 
tinued unfavourable; but the morn- 
ing presented us with a cloudless sky, 
a calm and quiet lake, and the last 
brilliant sunshine which many a 



334 

brave fellow was doomed to look 
upon. It presented likewise my 
friend Captain Hoitaway labouring 
under the same impressions as the 
night previous. 

A short time before the signal was 
made for the i( troops to prepare to 
land," he addressed me with great 
earnestness — he reminded me that it 
was not the first time that he had 
been exposed to an enemy's fire, 
and that he hoped I knew him too 
well to suppose that he was afraid of 
any thing that could happen to him. 
He said he felt strangely, as he had 
never felt before on such an occasion ; 
but that he trusted he should never- 
theless do his duty. At his request 
I again assembled the men, and made 
each of them sign his accounts. I 
did so without a remark, because I 
saw his heart was set upon it ; and 
although I commiserated his feelings, 



335 

I enjoyed the idea, that in a few hours 
I should have the pleasure of rallying 
him upon his credulity, and gloomy 
impressions. The event however 
proved otherwise. 

The signal was made to land, and 
the boats pulled in bravely upon the 
enemy's shore, boat cheering boat 
with loud huzzas, such as no man can 
form an idea of, who has never heard 
them on similar occasions, and such as 
will ring in the ears of him who has, (if 
he be really and heartily fond of his pro- 
fession) for the remainder of his life. It 
was a struggle who should be the first on 
shore, many of the men landing breast 
high in water, and Captain Holtaway, 
sword in hand, amongst the number. 
In less than ten minutes, however, the 
marines having formed in column, 
were ordered to advance in double 
quick time upon the enemy ; and at 
the foot of the glacis, Captain Holta- 



336 

way fell mortally wounded at the 
head of his company. He was dead 
in an instant, a musket- shot having 
struck him on the temple and passed 
directly through his head.* 

Lieutenant de May was mortally 
wounded previous to this movement, 
hopes however were entertained for 
some hours that his life might be 
saved, but as the ball, which had 
lodged near the eye, could not be 
extracted, mortification ensued, and 
he died two days afterwards, He 
was a native of Switzerland, a very 
fine young man, and as this was the 

t Captain Hoi taway particularly distinguished him- 
self under Lieutenant Colonel Torrens in the defence 
of the Island of Anhalt in the Baltic, which was at- 
tacked by the Danes on 27th of March, 1811. The 
garrison consisted of marines, (the greater part of 
whom afterwards joined the second battalion in Spain) 
and a few seamen. They repulsed the enemy in three 
successive attacks, and ultimately totally defeated 
them with a loss of two of their divisions, who were 
obliged to surrender at discretion. 



337 

first service he had ever been upon, his 
fate excited very great commiseration. 

Captain Mulcaster, who commanded 
the Princess Charlotte, received a 
severe grape-shot wound in the groin, 
whilst gallantly heading a storming 
party of seamen. He was in the 
battle of Trafalgar with Lord Nelson, 
and was second in command under 
Sir James Yeo, during the most event- 
ful period of the naval war upon the 
Lakes. On one occasion in particu- 
lar, when the Wolfe sloop of war, 
which bore the commodore's flag, was 
dismasted by the Americans, Captain 
Mulcaster, in the Royal George, 
hastened to her relief, and bore the 
brunt of the action for the remainder 
of the day. 

Five other officers were likewise 
wounded in the assault of Oswego. 
Captain Lidergrew of de Watteville's; 



338 

Lieutenant John Hewitt of the 
Marines, who climbed the flag-staff, 
and struck the American colours. 
Captain Popham, R.N. ; Lieutenant 
Griffin, R.N., and Mr. Richardson, 
Master of the Royal George. 

Lieutenant - General Sir Gordon 
Drummond commanded on this occa- 
sion, and Lieutenant-Colonel Pearson, 
Inspecting Field Officer of Militia, 
(who was second in command in the 
action at Chrystler's Farm) and Lieu- 
tenant-Colonel Smelt of the 103d re- 
giment, who were passengers in the 
fleet* landed with him as volunteers. 



LA COLE MILL 

was attacked on the 30th of March, 
1814, by a strong force of the Ameri- 
can army under General Wilkinson. 



339 

The enemy s advance was led by the 
celebrated Major Forsyth, who by 
his marauding excursions, enterprise, 
and great personal bravery, had made 
himself the complete Rob Roy 
M'Gregor of the American States, 
bordering upon Canada. His gal- 
lantry was however of no avail on 
this occasion, for whilst making an 
ineffectual and desperate effort to 
carry the Mill, he was mortally 
wounded, and with him fell every 
chance the Americans had of success. 
The posts of La Cole and Burton 
Ville were commanded by Major 
Hancock of the 13th regiment, and 
the force under his orders consisted 
of part of that regiment, the grena- 
dier company of the Canadian Fenci- 
bles, a company of Canadian Volti- 
geurs, and a small detachment of the 
first battalion of Royal Marines, com- 



340 

mandedby Lieutenants Caldwell, and 
Burton. 



PLATSBURGH. 

Beyond the recollection that every 
man on board the British squadron 
did his duty, in the action with the 
Americans on Lake Champlain, I 
have no wish to remember any parti- 
culars relative to that unfortunate 
affair. That this fleet, as well as that 
under Captain Barclay on Lake Erie, 
was sacrificed unnecessarily, appears 
to be generally believed ; and under 
this impression, the loss of such men 
as Captains Downie and Finnis, of the 
R.N. and of Captain Anderson of the 
marines, with their gallant but ill- 
fated companions, is the more to be 
lamented. The conclusion of the 
general order of the 24th of Novem- 



1 



341 

ber, 1813, alluding to the action on 
Lake Erie, may be very justly applied 
likewise to Captain Downie and the 
crews on Lake Champlain. "De- 
prived," it says, " of the palm of vic- 
tory, when almost within his grasp, 
by an overwhelming force which the 
enemy possessed in reserve, aided by 
an accumulation of unfortunate cir- 
cumstances, Captain Barclay and his 
brave crews, have, by their gallant 
daring, and self-devotion to their 
country's cause, rescued its honour 
and their own, even in defeat." 

That the British army at Platsburg 
was disgraced by orders which com- 
promised its honour for its safety, is 
likewise pretty weH understood ; and 
that there were very few, if any, of 
those who composed it, who felt vastly 
obliged for this kind consideration, 
will be also fully credited. I have 
Q3 



342 

no wish to enter upon a subject so 
degrading, and as I was not at 
" Platsburgh Races," as this cele- 
brated retreat is sarcastically termed, 
I may be well excused from the task. 
To contemplate and to describe great 
and glorious actions, which do honour 
to my country and the service, must, 
as I before observed, be at all times 
gratifying, and such reflections tend 
to ennoble the soul ; but to record 
events, such as that to which I have 
now alluded, I leave to the historian, 
whose duty it is, for the information 
of bosterity, to faithfully note, not 
onty the good, but the bad, the noble 
and the ignoble. 

The discussion of this affair would 
likewise lead to the general conduct 
and character of Sir George Prevost, 
who is now dead. It is one thing to 
attack a man whilst living, and 
Another to gallop over him when he is 



343 

no longer able to defend himself. In 
the first case he has the power to 
publicly contradict any statement 
affecting his character, and perhaps 
prove it to be false ; and ivhat is more, 
he can resent it : but when he is gone 
to a more severe tribunal to answer 
for his conduct, then let us remember 
that unless his faults were of the heart 
as well as of the head, mercy is more 
honourable than severity. Let us re- 
flect that many a man, who cuts but 
a very indifferent figure in public life, 
would perform all the duties of a 
more retired station, with honour and 
credit, because it is suited to his 
capacity and his feelings. 

That the disasters to which I have 
alluded, as well as the extraordinary 
result of the attack upon Sackets 
Harbour in 1813, and the defeat and 
capture of General Proctor's division, 
near the Moravian village, are to be 



344 

attributed to the indecisive measures 
of the Governor General, is univer- 
sally admitted ; and it is to be re- 
gretted that Lieut. -General Sir Gor- 
don Drummond, who commanded 
in the Upper Province, or some other 
officer, able to wield the vast machine 
of war with effect, had not filled the 
situation. Indecision, however, and a 
too great attention to the minutiae of 
dress and parade, which could not be 
of the least possible service in the 
field, were his principal faults ; for to 
the best of his ability I believe, the 
wish of Sir George Prevost was to 
do his duty ; and after passing forty 
years of his life in the service, in dif- 
ferent parts of the world, it is surely 
only fair to take all his actions into 
the account, instead of condemning 
him as one, who had no previous es- 
tablished claims upon the considera- 
tion of his country. 



CONCLUSION. 



" If when I was a school-boy, I could not hear a drum 
beat, but my heart beat with it, was it my fault ? — Did I 
plant the propensity there ? — Did I sound the alarm within, 
or Nature ? " — Sterne. 



I take this for my motto, because 
on looking over what I have here 
written, a thousand sensations and 
recollections, intimately connected 
with it, are awakened in my mind 
and in my heart. Old times, 
and old friends, appear before me in 



346 

retrospect, and that ardent, passion- 
ate affection for the service which I 
felt in my boyhood, I find still glow- 
ing warmly in my bosom. How far 
this feeling may have influenced me 
in my allusions to military affairs, is 
not for me to decide ; but I shall be 
amply satisfied if this small work, 
should be the means of rescuing from 
oblivion, the name of even one brave 
man, or of imparting to his friends 
and relatives, one moment of consola- 
tion. 

Now, reader, I have very nearly 
finished my book, and if there be much 
in it, not exactly consistent with your 
idea of things, take out your pencil 
quietly, like a sensible man, and note 
<iown your observations in the mar- 
gin ; but if there be much in it you 
decidedly object to, do not fly into a 
passion, do not I pray you, throw it 



347 

behind the fire, and exlcaim, " Let 
him go to the devil;" for, in the lan- 
guage of the inimitable Sterne, I 
must remind you, that " it is a 
cruel journey to send me upon, and 
that I have had sufferings enough 
without it." Remember, that " It is 
one thing for a man to march bravely 
on, with drums and trumpets, and 
colours flying about his ears, — 'tis 
one thing I say, brother Shandy, to 
do this, and 'tis another to describe 
the miseries of war." 

It is one thing for a man on enter- 
ing the lists for literary fame, to be 
knocked down the first blow, and 
well belaboured afterwards by every 
merciless critic, who chooses to turn 
upon him ; and it is another to be as 
perfectly indifferent to all this, as the 
old woman's eel, which in her idea, 
from being likewise quite used to it, 



348 

felt no more the operation of having 
his skin stripped over his ears, than a 
young onion. In short, gentle reader, 
it is one thing for a man to presume 
on having written a very clever book, 
full of very clever things ; and it is 
another, to make no pretensions to 
anything of the kind. 

It is upon this last principle that I 
have ventured to build my hopes of 
success ; and having now launched 
my bark, my first venture, upon an 
ocean, where I must expect northern 
storms and periodical tempests to assail 
me — gentle reader, and still more 
gentle critic and reviewer — I bid ye 
all farewell. 

THE END. 



LONDON : 
SHACKELL AND ARROWSMITH, JOHNSON'S COURT. 



- IBM 






